Archived 2006 truck will not start

[JPauley]

Hello all. My truck will not start, although it cranks fine. Here are the symptoms. About a week ago my truck cranked but would not start, I shut the key off, tried again, it still didn't start, so I tried once more and it started fine. All has been fine until yesterday, and again it would crank and not start. I cycled the key on and off until I heard the fuel pump prime, at which time I started the truck fine. Today it cranked without starting, and I am not hearing the fuel pump prime at all now. I looked under the hood and remembered that there are no relays for the fuel pump on the 2006 that has the body control module. So, I hooked up my OBDII code scanner to see if I could find anything out. The scanner read "error, check connections" to which I did. With no connection problems to the plug port, I am having a sinking feeling that my PCM/ECM may have decided to tank on me. Or could it be the Body Control Module? I am at a loss with this electrical stuff, other than the minor trouble shooting I have done so far. I am stranded right now, and I am thinking about a tow home or the Dodge dealer, so any advice would be much appreciated to at least get me started and back home in my garage where I can properly work on it.

 

[BGlidewell]

check batteries

 

[JPauley]

batteries just tested a few months ago, and all good, but a great idea. I just went out and braved the 117 heat index for a few minutes, and tried to find the fan clutch connector that goes to the PCM/ECM, and I could not locate it from up top of the engine (in my dress cloths right now). Also, I jiggled the passenger side ground wire from the battery to the engine, and I think that may be my problem. The connection ends are all good, but maybe it is in the middle of the wire as noted by another TDR member. Would my truck be allowed to crank strongly with this ground messed up, because my engine was cranking strong? Anyway, it is starting for the time being. I'll check out the ground wire some more when I get it back to my garage and see if I get an intermittent ground issue. If so, I may have just gotten off cheap on this repair (relatively that is).

 

[CKelley1]

a fuel pressure gauge would help. first loosen the banjo bolt on the cp3 that is on the line from the bottom of the filter. turn the switch on and see if fuel runs out. if it does the fca could be stuck or low rail pressure the fca is on the back of the cp3 it has a two wire plug to it. first have someone turn on the key while you listen or hold your hand on it. it will do a self test and you can hear it snap. if you do not hear the snap the fca is stuck. is it snaps unplug the fca and see if it starts, do not rev it up if it does your rail pressurs will be 30,000 lbs. if it starts the fca is bad if not the ecm will not let the truck start below i think 4,000 lbs rail pressure. at this point you need to see the stored dtc's in the ecm to determine the direction to go there is a few problems that will not throw a code but you need to do a leak down test to pinpoint and i think it may bee more than what you want to get into

 

[JPauley]

CKelley1 - The FCA did click when the ignition turned on, so I guess that means it is okay. Truck started with and with out the harness connector to the FCA plugged in. I have a new problem now that I did this test though. I have fuel spraying all over the inside of my engine compartment, and it looks like it is coming from the area of the fuel rail. Any suggestions? I have a feeling that unplugging the FCA was not a good idea, but what do I know. Also, we only idled the truck with the FCA unplugged, as noted.

 

[JPauley]

For more information, the truck started after pulling and re-inserting a few fuses in the fuse box related to ACC power and power to the ECM. It appears I had a loose connection. After it was running I still did the FCA test to make sure all was well there too. All seemed fine, and I drove it to work this morning. I was a few miles from work when I noticed the heavy diesel smell coming from under my hood. I lifted the hood, and that is when I noticed the fuel spraying all over the place from the area of the fuel rail, although with the high pressure it could also be an injector line, it is hard to tell. Anyway, I am in the same boat I was yesterday, in that I am stranded at work. I am not sure if it is safe to drive with fuel spraying all over the place. Any suggestions would be appreciated. To clarify, my truck now starts fine, I just have a fuel spraying issue related I believe to the high pressure sent through my system from the FCA test noted above. I am hoping for a better day tomorrow.

 

[JPauley]

Also, I have a steady clicking noise (2 to 4 clicks per second) under the hood when the key is turned on without the truck started. With my mechanics stethoscope it seems like it is coming from inside the valve cover/cylinder head. Could it be an injector solenoid? Is this a normal thing? I don't usually stick my head under the hood with the key on and the engine off. I sure miss my 12 Valve engine! Wish I could put a 12 valve in a 3rd or 4th generation truck!

 

[CKelley1]

not sure about the clicking but you more than likely have a #4 injector line cracked. open the hood and start the engine you should see the spray just a little way away from the fitting on the injector tube. the blue isolator was probably loose and it was going to crake shortly anyway the 30,000 lbs just expedited it. the cummins # for it is 4988808 it is about $25 it takes a 10 mm and a 3/4 wrench to take it off

 

[JPauley]

Thanks for the tip. I decided with the extreme heat today to let my local shop handle this, since it is an easy task. I'll double check the torque on everything when I get it home though, and make sure the isolator is setup properly. I'll probably regret it, since I typically do all of my own work, but I do trust this guy not to jerk me around.

 

[JPauley]

It is the #4 injector line, you are correct. You do know your stuff! Okay, having not done this before, and not really looking at what is in the way before having it towed to the repair shop, I am a bit not prepared for estimating the labor involved with this. From my recolection, not much was in the way to get to this. How many hours of labor from a shop would you estimate being billed for replacing the #4 injector line? A few minutes of cleaning time should be factored into the overall cost since diesel is all over the engine compartment.

 

[CKelley1]

it usually takes me about 15 minutes to change one on the side of the road, no need to clean up the fuel and the fuel has already cleaned out around the line.

 

[JPauley]

Dealer charges 1 hour for remove and install and to clean the code out of computer (which I did not have a code). Dodge dealer part $68 (no cummins dealer close to me). I cannot argue with the labor on it due to intense heat we are having right now and lack of interest I had in doing it because of the heat. I am trying to upload a picture for those that have not seen a cracked injector line (I fell into that same category) because it does not look cracked to the untrained eye. It is cracked right by the where the compression nut fits on the line (more like seperated than cracked).

**I cannot seem to make a picture show up, so I may need some help in figuring this one out. Could I email it to someone and have them post it for me?
#ad

 

[CKelley1]

cut the other fitting off about 1/2 inch away from the fitting and have the end brazed shut. this makes a nice tool to help pull injector tubes and block off a suspected leaky injector during troubleshooting. look closer, it is cracked, most of the time they come completley into and you will not believe how much fuel at 10,000 psi that cp3 can put out

 

[JPauley]

You Cut the bad fitting off or the good fitting? Sounds like a great idea, always good to have the special tools when you need them. Thank you fpr the tips. I appreciate it greatly.

 

[CKelley1]

cut the good fitting off it will make it easer to braze, leave about 1/4" of line past the fitting.