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2007 dually 4x4 Transfer case oil???

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hey guys, changing the transfer case oil on my 2007 5.9 4 door long bed Dually 4x4. it has the new process 272 transfer case. I was told by the parts guy at the dealership it holds 5 quarts of fluid. I just barley got 3 1/2 quarts in it and it is overflowing. is this parts guy got it wrong. How much should this thing hold. I have the 6 speed manual stick transmission also with the American 11.5 rear end. any answers would be welcome. thanx.
 
correction, I have the New Process 271 D Transfer case. But your answers totally make sense. I got 3 1/2 quarts in it and it started to overflow. The parts guy at the Dealership told me it took 5 quarts. He also told me my 11.5 American rear axil only took 4 pints along with a bottle of friction modifier. I told him I had a Mag High tech rear end cooler so he gives me 4 quarts and says that will be plenty. So I drain all the fluid today and 8 quarts came out of the rear end. So now I need 4 more. I can't believe this guy screwed up so bad on the amounts I needed to do a simple oil service. So I end up with to much oil for the transfer case and not enough for the rear end. Ridiculous. as always thanx guys for your answers. I tried looking it up in Geno's Garage on line, but he has all the info for the transmission's and Diffs with the exception of the G56 Trans and the American Axils. Nothing for the Transfer cases. Not that he should, but he has it for all the previous configs which is really cool. I'm headed back to the dealership tomorrow to give them an ear full. I'm stuck riding my motorcycle and I really don't want to with how cold it has been lately. down in the low 20s in the morning. not fun.
 
I'm about to change my diff's oil for my American axles (look at sig), what is the OEM oil and can I get it WITHOUT going to a dealer?
 
Just a simple 75W-140 synthetic Oil, Type GL5.

No Friction Modifier or other Magic Things are needed - just simple Gear Oil, which Brand doesn't matter.
 
Just a simple 75W-140 synthetic Oil, Type GL5.

No Friction Modifier or other Magic Things are needed - just simple Gear Oil, which Brand doesn't matter.

The AAM actually spec's a synthetic 75w-90. I called AAM and asked if a 75w-140 was better for towing and was told that unless you live above GCWR in extreme heat (he mentioned death valley) that 75w-90 was the preferred fluid.
 
Don't be too hard on the parts guy.He has no info on quantity.Only part #s and sadly the corporation no longer publishes the nice charts they had years back to show fluids required by different gear boxes.It is only getting more complicated every year with all the new drive train designs.
There are new Jeeps that have 4 wd that do not have transfer cases as an example..............bracing for the future.
 
alright so I took the shortcut and got the remaining 4 quarts from the new dealer in my town instead of driving 25 miles to the dealer I originally got the first batch from. Now I am looking in my owners manual and it says it does not use friction modifier. I also see a post above that confirms what I read in my manual. this sucks only because yesterday I put the first 4 quarts in with the modifier. I have yet to add the other 4 quarts I just picked up today. So here is my new dilemma, if I run it with the modifier in it will it screw up my friction plates. If so then I need to drain the first 4 quarts with the friction modifier in and grab 4 more quarts and fill it without any modifier. I'm hoping you will say it won't make a difference, but somehow I doubt it. If so I am going back to the original dealer and hold them accountable for telling me to put it in and hopefully have them give me 4 new quarts. I know it is partly my fault for not verifying it myself, but I was counting on them to tell me to do the right thing and now it is clearly wrong. As always you guys are a great source of info. thanx again for any additional input on this. If I can get away with running the modifier with no damage I would just rather. I just don't know enough to make that determination without potential consequences. thanx guys.
 
Don't be too hard on the parts guy.He has no info on quantity.Only part #s and sadly the corporation no longer publishes the nice charts they had years back to show fluids required by different gear boxes.It is only getting more complicated every year with all the new drive train designs.
There are new Jeeps that have 4 wd that do not have transfer cases as an example..............bracing for the future.
Can you imagine what the mechanics were saying when the big Four got away from Babbit Bearings to the newer type bearings.
 
alright so I took the shortcut and got the remaining 4 quarts from the new dealer in my town instead of driving 25 miles to the dealer I originally got the first batch from. Now I am looking in my owners manual and it says it does not use friction modifier. I also see a post above that confirms what I read in my manual. this sucks only because yesterday I put the first 4 quarts in with the modifier. I have yet to add the other 4 quarts I just picked up today. So here is my new dilemma, if I run it with the modifier in it will it screw up my friction plates. If so then I need to drain the first 4 quarts with the friction modifier in and grab 4 more quarts and fill it without any modifier. I'm hoping you will say it won't make a difference, but somehow I doubt it. If so I am going back to the original dealer and hold them accountable for telling me to put it in and hopefully have them give me 4 new quarts. I know it is partly my fault for not verifying it myself, but I was counting on them to tell me to do the right thing and now it is clearly wrong. As always you guys are a great source of info. thanx again for any additional input on this. If I can get away with running the modifier with no damage I would just rather. I just don't know enough to make that determination without potential consequences. thanx guys.


You can let the FM in, it doesn't hurt anything inside, he's just not necessary.
 
The AAM actually spec's a synthetic 75w-90. I called AAM and asked if a 75w-140 was better for towing and was told that unless you live above GCWR in extreme heat (he mentioned death valley) that 75w-90 was the preferred fluid.

I know but I like to have extra protection, to say it, the 140 is clearly not for best milage but it is best for the gearing especially when used hard.
I have it in my Jeep GC 5.9 and so I still have a little barrel to use.
 
I know but I like to have extra protection, to say it, the 140 is clearly not for best milage but it is best for the gearing especially when used hard.
I have it in my Jeep GC 5.9 and so I still have a little barrel to use.

In your climate does the gear oil ever warm up?
 
hey guys, changing the transfer case oil on my 2007 5.9 4 door long bed Dually 4x4. it has the new process 272 transfer case. I was told by the parts guy at the dealership it holds 5 quarts of fluid. I just barley got 3 1/2 quarts in it and it is overflowing. is this parts guy got it wrong. How much should this thing hold. I have the 6 speed manual stick transmission also with the American 11.5 rear end. any answers would be welcome. thanx.
I would bet your parts guy was referring to 5 PINTS, and the correct fluuid is as someone stated, an ATF+4 Fluid
 
In your climate does the gear oil ever warm up?


Yes, surely around 50-60°C, more in Summers.
Had hugh problems with the GC since I got it, tuning the cooling system was a permanent work. He even cooked the ECM at 40°C Temperature with the Trailer on.

For this I like the Ram now, he stays always in nice Temperature Areas whatever I do whit him.
 
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