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2011 overheating

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[h=2]2011 over heating[/h]
My 2011 is overheating. I blew the head gaskets once studded it egr delete all that stuff. Well 2 weeks ago it over heated. I pulled over cut the center out of the thermostat got it home put a new one in.... well now in the am or when it's been started after cooling off it gets hot then after that I could drive it California and back and it runs normal temp. Could someone help me. Could it be another headgasket or something else thanks​





 
mixed coolant types? air pockets? bad t-stats. Fan clutch not working?
are you getting bubbles in the overflow tank?
 
sound like a bad t-stat. new or not. they can be bad form the factory, what brand did you go with?
how is it overheating? boiling over? or just on the gauge?
maybe try an external temp gauge see what you get..
 
sound like a bad t-stat. new or not. they can be bad form the factory, what brand did you go with?
how is it overheating? boiling over? or just on the gauge?
maybe try an external temp gauge see what you get..
I got the t stat from the dodge dealer in town. Hot on the gauge. I might get a tiny bit of blow over. You don't think my rad cap is bad ???
 
I'm having a similar issue with my 11. It started out with the coolant reservoir full of coolant, not overheating at the time. My first thought was bad radiator cap. I replaced the cap and all was well for about a week. I was cruising down
the highway and all of the sudden my temp gage was up and red light on, overheating. I spoke with a Dealer Diesel Tech and he said definitely a bad thermostat, so I replaced the thermostat and all was back to normal for a couple of
weeks, until yesterday. Now I'm back to coolant reservoir full and overheating. Also, I will have heat and then all of the sudden no heat.
I have no coolant bubbling in my reservoir and no signs of Head gasket leaking or coolant loss, so I'm thinking a Bad, New Thermostat? Could the water pump be going bad, to where not enough coolant is getting circulated?? I have never
added any coolant to the system I'm hoping to hear from either Bob 4x4 or Sag2 to see if they've experienced this at their respective shops. Thanks
 
EGroeneveld, Thanks for the info. I'm right at 90K now. I'm going to change out the water pump and put on a new belt. Heck may even put on a new belt tensioner as well. Thanks for the reply
 
Sag 2, When I changed the thermostat I didn't add any coolant, it was full right up to where the thermostat seats. The reservoir and radiator were full and everything seemed normal for a while. I understand I should bleed the system after
opening it and I did let her run with the reservoir cap open and radiator cap off for a short time. I was wondering if I had an air bubble in the system??
I should mention that I have the "California Deletes", meaning everything under the hood is still there, just turned off. Is there a possibility that the egr cooler is impeding coolant flow? My 15 minute thermostat change turned into a 1hr 1/2
since I had to remove the egr cross over to get to the t-stat housing. Putting the cross over back on was a headache. My state doesn't do emmissions testing so I would like to take the rest of the components off and have something I can work on easily. Thanks for your reply and insight, it's greatly appreciated. Take Care
 
I believe you'll find a vent on a coolant line adjacent to the EGR cooler. Later models have the coolant fill on the firewall where it's the highest point in the system. That's not the case when the fill is the radiator cap.
 
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