Here I am

2011 Ram 3500 6.7L Torque Rating

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Warranty and receipts

2010 2500 axle u joints

Status
Not open for further replies.
Hi all,

My wife and I attended the rally in Pahrump, NV this year and had a great time. Although we were new to the rally we were treated like old friends. Lot's of great info also.

Now to my question. We have a 2009 Ram 3500 6.7L but would like more torque and a newer truck. I read somewhere on this site that in the second half of the 2011 model year that the torque was bumped to 850 foot pounds. So, we are looking at late 2011 and newer Rams to fit our needs.

How do we tell if the 2011 that we have an interest in has the 850 foot pound engine?

The VIN# is 3D73Y3CL4BG582248

Thank You,

Larry & Barb Seiger
Spokane, WA
 
As per the Cummins parts web site: Engine Serial Number 58015276

Advertised Power: 350 At 3000 RPM

Peak torque (LB FT): 650 at 1500 RPM

IIRC you would have to go to 2013 to get 850

David
 
If it hasn't been deleted, I doubt it. The 2013+ with Aisin are rated for that. Before DEF, the excessive EGR to meet emissions standards reduced the max torque
 
The 350 hp 650 torque rating is with the manual transmission. Late 2011 and 2012 trucks with the 68rfe automatic were rated 365 hp 800 ft lbs torque.
 
Thank you for the quick response.

Is the Cummins site open to me? I'd like to have a source for quick look-up if I find another truck.

Thanks again,

Larry
 
The two biggest reasons to go to the '13 and up are the Hydro Formed Frame which markedly improved the weight ratings and the DEF injection which gives a reported 1 mpg minimum improvement, That should offset the cost of DEF.
Oh, the pickups got the better Automatic and 50 more Ft Lbs of torque (100 for '16)
But what do I know, I've got a '12 :eek:
 
Last edited:
Wouldn't a 2011 DRW would have a better frame than my 2003 SRW? A Smarty for a early 2011 would give me +190 ft lbs and better shifting and that would put it right with the newer trucks? Saving $6000?
 
A Smarty for a early 2011 would give me +190 ft lbs and better shifting and that would put it right with the newer trucks? Saving $6000?

I don’t see an advantage to the 2011 over the 2013+ unless the 2011 is deleted.

And you probably don't want the cost of deleting.

Bob was referring to the high maintenance of the O2 sensors which can get quickly sooted (covered In soot) with the stock EGR. O2 sensors can be damaged in removal, cleaning, and reinstallation.

Most who use a smarty to increase power will first delete? ???????

I've never deleted, so correct me I am a bit off here?
 
This guy does:eek:, I would leave the exhaust alone if possible, its nice and quiet

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...-Smarty-J67-For-Stock-10-CTD?highlight=smarty

You're right. Just don't think it (undeleted 2011) is better than the 2013+. And it doesn't sound like he has run it long enough to experience any problems? Can you delete just the EGR and still keep it quiet? I think the smarty can electrically turn off some of the problematic emissions? It is something to research a bit more I think?

Good luck with your purchase.
 
You're right. Just don't think it (undeleted 2011) is better than the 2013+. And it doesn't sound like he has run it long enough to experience any problems? Can you delete just the EGR and still keep it quiet? I think the smarty can electrically turn off some of the problematic emissions? It is something to research a bit more I think?

Good luck with your purchase.

looks like Beast2B, had real problems with his 2010 and got rid of it, so I do not really need to repeat his anguish (buy backs etc), screw it ,I'll probably keep my HO ( a 2003 HO that is:))
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top