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2011 Ram 3500 Gear Ratio

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I plan on ordering a 3500 Ram ( non-dually ) To pull my 5th wheel camper. The camper weights 7400 lbs dry. My question is now that the new Ram has 800ft lbs of torque do I really need anything more than the stock gear ratio ( 3:43's) or should I option for the 3:73's. I really don't think I need the 4:10's. Any advice would be great as this is my first Diesel truck. I'm currently pulling the camper with a Mint condition 04 Ram 2500 ( w/HEMI ) with only 41000 miles that I plan on selling. Any info would be great.
 
I would still get the 4. 10's. The 6 speed auto has 2 over-drives, so your cruise rpms are low but you have 10% more tq multiplication than 3. 73's, and 20% more than 3. 42's.



If you don't want 4. 10's the highest I would go is 3. 73's.
 
The 800 tq. engines are not yet in production, so before you order it, make sure that is what you are getting. The last word I had was some time in the second quarter for the new engine rating.
 
I plan on ordering a 3500 Ram ( non-dually ) To pull my 5th wheel camper. The camper weights 7400 lbs dry. My question is now that the new Ram has 800ft lbs of torque do I really need anything more than the stock gear ratio ( 3:43's) or should I option for the 3:73's. I really don't think I need the 4:10's. Any advice would be great as this is my first Diesel truck. I'm currently pulling the camper with a Mint condition 04 Ram 2500 ( w/HEMI ) with only 41000 miles that I plan on selling. Any info would be great.
Normally, I would recommend the 3:73 with your GCVW, but with the 800tq option only being the auto, that changes a lot. 3:73 is a good compromise between the two other options, if your going to drive 50% city and 50% HWY. 4:10 would help in heavy application at 22K GCVW. I ordered my C&C with the 3:73 just for that reason, and planed to tow up to 26K GCVW. Look at sig, I can run the gear I want and wasn't worried about it. But with the auto being your only option, I think AH64ID has it right and if you were to buy a newer heavier 5ver later down the road, you will appreciate that advise.
 
The full 800 foot pounds of torque are not going to be available until 4th gear as torque management kicks in before then. I would go with the 4. 10. It will help you get the load moving better. As AH64ID stated, the trans has 2 overdrives and will not be any where close to over reving. If you search the forum, you will find many who bought just enough truck for what they have now and when they find something heavier, they wish they had made different choices during their purchase. You will never regret buying a truck that has more capacity than you need. You will quickly find a use for it.

If fuel mileage is your main concern for going with a taller gear, I have not heard any appreciable differences between the gear sets. Just my . 02.
 
I'd do the 4. 10 too. I have the 4. 10 on my 2011 Ram 3500 Dually and love them. Turns the same RPMs as my 2005 3500 Dually with 3. 73 at 70MPH because of the additional overdrive and more gears in the transmission.



I would never get the 3. 43, if ordering these why get a real truck?



I would maybe consider the 3. 73 if your never towing more then 6K and you live in a state with the higher speed limits of 75mph like UT or the midwest.



2000 RPMs equals about 72 mph with the 4. 10s.
 
For your comparison, at 60 MPH here is comparative RPM of the different rear axle gearsets with the 68RFE in 6th gear:



4. 10 - 1612 RPM



3. 73 - 1466 RPM



3. 42 - 1344 RPM



The 4. 10s are very easy to live with with the 0. 61:1 6th gear ratio of the 68RFE. If you go with 3. 42s, I doubt you'll be spending much time in 6th gear, especially when towing. 1344 RPM is so far below the HO's 1600 RPM torque peak (normally in the neighborhood where an engine also delivers best BSFC), I doubt your fuel mileage would be significantly better than with the 4. 10s or 3. 73s.



Rusty
 
Be prepared for poor MPG results if you go with the 4. 10s and the HO 6. 7. My new truck and my old truck MPG varied between 12 MPG and 16 MPG empty with 3. 73s. I never drive over 73 mph, 50% highway. Add 23% more power and 4. 10 gears and I'm guessing 10 to 13 MPG.
 
Does the HO offer any ratio besides the 4:10? Maybe the HO and 4:10 restriction is for the dually? Need some new info updates!



Nick
 
Well as for MPG you can get good reading's as long as you drive it right my be4st with my 08 was 19 mpg running empty n 16. 5 loaded
 
Be prepared for poor MPG results if you go with the 4. 10s and the HO 6. 7. My new truck and my old truck MPG varied between 12 MPG and 16 MPG empty with 3. 73s. I never drive over 73 mph, 50% highway. Add 23% more power and 4. 10 gears and I'm guessing 10 to 13 MPG.

The 4. 10 ratio is not really a concern. Many folks believe that differential choices will make significant differences in fuel economy. That is simply not true.
 
The 4. 10 ratio is not really a concern. Many folks believe that differential choices will make significant differences in fuel economy. That is simply not true.



:-laf



Yeah, that is why Dodge introduced the 3. 42 ratio... for all of those guys wanting to be different for no apparent reason...



Higher RPM = higher fuel burn.
 
I have to agree with Harvey and the others go with 4:10,s.

I don't think you will see any appreciable difference, unless you will spend a lot of time at high speeds you won't be taking advantage of the double overdrive.

Larry
 
Thanks for all the great info guys. Buying this truck all depends on me selling my 68 Coronet R/T. You are probably thinking I'm nuts but I'm getting ready to retire and the last couple of years the car just sat in the garage, I just don't have the time for it and I'd rather sell it to someone that will use it. She only has 53000 original miles and is a show winner no matter where I went with it. She's a number matching 440 4 speed car.

Thanks again for all the great info

Len
 
:-laf



Yeah, that is why Dodge introduced the 3. 42 ratio... for all of those guys wanting to be different for no apparent reason...



Higher RPM = higher fuel burn.



It was introduced to meet public perception, similar to why the oil psi gauge was removed.



Rpms made a large difference on older mechanical engines, but its just not the case for modern engines. My dad's 06 G56 and my 05 NV5600 are a good example, they both have 3. 73's but the OD in his G56 has a final drive ratio similar to what my truck would be with 4. 10's. There is no clear winner on economy, sometime he does better sometimes I do.
 
:-laf

Yeah, that is why Dodge introduced the 3. 42 ratio... for all of those guys wanting to be different for no apparent reason...

Higher RPM = higher fuel burn.

Some folks are determined to continue believing old myths and misinformation and that is their right. But it doesn't make it accurate.

You probably believe that an aftermarket air filter and removing the muffler or converting to a larger exhaust improves hp and performance also, right?
 
Here is a rare BSFC chart for the old 235 BHP VP-44 pumped 5. 9L. Note that torque is governed by the ECM, but it does illustrate the 2000 RPM best BSFC "sweet spot" characteristics of this engine. Wish I could find the same chart for the 350/650 6. 7L - I'll keep looking.....



Rusty
 
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Here is a rare BSFC chart for the old 235 BHP VP-44 pumped 5. 9L. Note that torque is governed by the ECM, but it does illustrate the 2000 RPM best BSFC "sweet spot" characteristics of this engine. Wish I could find the same chart for the 350/650 6. 7L - I'll keep looking.....



Rusty



If you could also find it for the 325/610 motor that would be sweet!
 
The trouble with these charts, IMO, is that they show BSFC at full load, where none of us drive on a regular basis. I would like to see BSFC at let's say 20-25% power, which is what many of us are using at cruising speed.
 
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