2013 Turbo

[SHobbs]

Have a 2013 2500 auto with a bad turbo, I discovered the connection to the actuator was full of silicone and made to appear to be connected. Cleaned it out, hooked it up and have codes for the actuator. The truck was deleted before I bought it so, not sure on the story as to what went on before the truck was deleted. Not knowing what codes were present when the actuator started tossing codes I am reluctant to replace the stock turbo with a rebuilt. I'm thinking about replacing the vgt with a fixed geometry turbo something like BD's Iron Horn. On a deleted truck are there any issues with fueling when using a fixed geometry turbo? I like the features the vgt has to offer but, replacing the turbo or the actuator I am not sure if that is or was the only issue.

 

[lpennock]

pull the actuator and see if the vains move without binding. If they do you can just do a new actuator. Genos sells one that doesn't require calibration.

With that said is possible your tune disabled the VGT completely.

 

[SHobbs]

Not sire what was done when it was deleted, I know EZ Lynk was used to delete it

 

[TMyers]

I would fix the stock turbo setup since the exhaust brake works using the variable gate.

Like mentioned above, pull the actuator and see if the gate gear on the turbo moves freely. Another thing you need to ask someone smarter than I am is, there is a new computer update that cycles the actuator/ gate vanes on start up. You need this update. Not sure if your delete program will work with it.

 

[endoscott]

Just had actuator replaced after months ago, probably driven less than 2000 miles since then and driving down the freeway on our 1st big trip since Covid all of a sudden it feels like we are driving over rough road for a minute, then losing throttle response, pulled off and its making a loud knocking sound and I bet the turbo went bad now! Stuck in Eugene Oregon for the night, got towed to RAM dealer, hope they have parts tomorrow!

 

[Ltngdrvr]

Just had actuator replaced after months ago, probably driven less than 2000 miles since then and driving down the freeway on our 1st big trip since Covid all of a sudden it feels like we are driving over rough road for a minute, then losing throttle response, pulled off and its making a loud knocking sound and I bet the turbo went bad now! Stuck in Eugene Oregon for the night, got towed to RAM dealer, hope they have parts tomorrow!

Doesn't sound like a turbo issue.
Post the codes and we can tell more.

 

[endoscott]

You are correct. Turns out to be a broken valve spring. Now they will pull the head and have a look. Did not get the codes.

 

[Ltngdrvr]

You are correct. Turns out to be a broken valve spring. Now they will pull the head and have a look. Did not get the codes.

Ah, yeah, sounded familiar, mine did that at 270k.

Idiot tech at the dealer in Indy wanted to replace the injector because he thought that was why the cylinder was dead. I finally convinced him and the warranty guy that a bad injector wouldn't keep the exhaust brake from working, only open valve would do that and cause the dead cylinder. Took the idiots 28 days to finally get it all worked out and back together. Later on I found out the tech had boogered up the connections on two of the injectors, rigged it up enough to get it to run for a while before it finally failed, and then they refused to stand behind their work.
Excuse my slight ranting...

Anyway, the valve did not drop clear out, but it had kissed the piston top, but was still okay to go back together.
Heck, I drove it quite a ways with the open exhaust valve and dead cylinder!

 

[endoscott]

Thats good to hear! He said he could move the valve in and out with his fingers. Maybe just a new valve and spring then. But for sure pull the head off and look right?

 

[Ltngdrvr]

Thats good to hear! He said he could move the valve in and out with his fingers. Maybe just a new valve and spring then. But for sure pull the head off and look right?

Absolutely.
They can't tell if anything is damaged or if the valve is bent unless they pull the head.
Is this truck under warranty???
Otherwise, dealer will most likely be the most expensive shop to get it fixed, quite a lot of labor to R&R the head.

 

[endoscott]

Under warranty. Thank God I bought the Zeigler extended warranty.

 

[endoscott]

It was the #6 cylinder. They should have head off 1st thing tomorrow AM.

 

[Ltngdrvr]

It was the #6 cylinder. They should have head off 1st thing tomorrow AM.

Mine was on cylinder 5, rear exhaust valve.
Mine was done under warranty as well, otherwise the bill would have been nearly $10K, another ripoff from that dealer in Indy.

Hope the tech working on your doesn't screw up any of the connector studs on any of the injectors...

 

[endoscott]

Me too! This dealership seems pretty diesel experienced. Should I push for a Cummins re-man head with all new springs instead of sending this head to a machine shop for repair?

 

[Ltngdrvr]

Me too! This dealership seems pretty diesel experienced. Should I push for a Cummins re-man head with all new springs instead of sending this head to a machine shop for repair?

Depends on how much damage there is, if any.
If it's just one valve, I doubt the warranty would cover more than a basic repair.
Just have to wait and see what they find when they get the head off.

 

[SHobbs]

I'm going to check the arm on the turbo before doing anything. As I said I am not sure what will happen if I replace the actuator, things work as they should or not. Can a fixed geometry turbo be installed on a deleted truck without issues? Not sure if calling the makers of EZ Lynk will do any good.

 

[SHobbs]

Went ahead and replaced the whole thing, rebuilt stock turbo and actuator. Since EZ Lynk was used on the truck before I bought it I got lucky in finding a fully loaded EZ Lynk tuner with all the files as well. Pulled the turbo out from the side which was not very fun but not that bad, the nuts holding the turbo to the exhaust flange were a bear to remove. After the rebuilt unit was in I uploaded a tune from EZ Lynk before starting it up to clear things out and start fresh. Everything worked great for about 1600 miles, plenty of boost and exhaust brake worked perfectly. Now, this week I have the U010C code which will not clear at all, my Edge CTS nor my EZ Lynk will clear it. With only the U010C code showing is that telling me the actuator has gone south or should I be looking at something else?

 

[SHobbs]

Looking for ideas. Had the turbo and actuator checked, all is fine no issues. Dealer is no help since the truck is deleted. The only code I have is the U010C nothing else, needing ideas on where or what to look for as far as fuses, wires and such. I did check the wires from the actuator connection to the main loom, found no issues with the wires. I had the idea to replace the factory connector for the actuator if someone can tell me what type of connector it is and where to find one. Trying to figure out how I drove 1600 miles with no issues at all then lose communication with the actuator.

 

[sag2]

Who and how did they check the actuator?

 

[SHobbs]

I picked up the turbo from Thoroughbred Diesel, the turbo was rebuilt by a company called D&W. It was D&W that pulled the turbo apart, inspected it and tested the actuator according to them everything is fine. I was sent a PDF that shows the test resuts as well.