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2015 2500 EGR cooler removal for cleaning

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KORE leveling kit

Help Code 2262 an p226c

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I ordered the 67.5k kit from Geno's, their instructions are very basic/generic. I've watched the MotorCityMech on YouTube, but he is working on an earlier year. So I've cleaned the EGR valve and re-installed last wkd, now i need to get the cooler cleaned before a trip next week. There are a few connections, whether egr or coolant related, that I can't figure out how to separate and I don't want to just start yankin' on stuff. I have everything removed except the cooler and associated plumbing. Also, any tricks on the nuts on the back of the cooler, esp the left one, I can feel the right one, not the left(looking at firewall)

thanks
 
I could be wrong ( and I usually am) but I thought I read were the new your 4th gen trucks from 2013 and up do not require the EGR cooler to be clean. Since there is less EGR taking place on these engines with the SCR system.
 
Jim,

that is correct. It is not in the manual to do the EGR valve and cooler at 67.5k, just the CCV filter. However, I was having issues with no power under certain conditions( I have another post here" Limp Mode No Codes") that explains that issue. I had my truck at the dealer for the S87 recall and spoke to the diesel tech about that problem. He said it sounded like I was having issues with the EGR valve and something he referred to as "Tip-In" and suggested I clean the EGR valve. I did and the issue I was having went away. I called the diesel tech to let him know that the issue was resolved and he said that if the EGR valve was sooted up enough to cause an issue that I should go ahead and clean the cooler as well. So, that's were I'm at.
The '13 and up trucks are different than earlier years(same parts, just different plumbing lines and connections) The info I can get off of the internet has all been from earlier trucks. I'm pretty handy, but I like detailed instructions to follow, so I'm a bit hesitant on the cooler removal.

I put 35k+ miles on a year. I bought my truck May 29th, 2015 and am currently at 66k miles. Based on driving my truck 6 days a week, that is 125 miles per day with several engine off/start cycles driving from job to job. Sometimes a few miles in between, sometimes 30-50 miles between stops. Not much idle time, I think I'm at 11%. My avg MPH is 33 roughly. This may contribute to the issue i was having?
 
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That is not anymore than normal,the real question is did it travel easily.Your year has improved monitoring/diag.Any fault should have set a fault.
 
Bob,
After I removed the actuator, I pressed in on the spring side and it seemed to function smoothly. After removing the spring I could feel a bit of drag. I didn't think it was that bad. I still don't 100% understand what was going on. What I do know is I haven't had any issue since cleaning it. Maybe the actuator motor is weak?
 
I agree, with everything they can retrieve from the computer you would certainly think that there would be a code.

I've even heard that car companies want to gather our car information via satellite from our sat radio's in real time.
 
I doubt that your cooler is plugged up enought to cause a problem. I'd check you'r sensors (MAP) and make sure that they are clean and passage ways are clear. And it may take a good run to get everything to clear out after the new re flash. A good run with a trailer to allow things to get up to temp faster and stay there longer.
 
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Truck runs fine after I cleaned the EGR valve. The cooler cleaning was a "well, may as well" service since I did the EGR valve.
 
post up some pics of the guts of your cooler when you clean it. other than cost, I can't imagine you'll cause any more issues (not being facetious, just my humble opinion!)
 
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