205 leak -pics

[bgilbert]

Well my T-case leak isnt gettting any better or healing on its own. Fill everyone in from my last post, T-case is leaking from front output or driveshaft. I first checked to see if it was overfilled, it was, let it drain out the fill hole. It did slow the leak a little. I tried removing the front driveshaft, but I couldnt get the 4 bolts out of CV joint flange. Got the nuts and lock washers off, but not the bolts where CVJ meets T-case flange. This is where its leaking as you can see in the pic. I've heard a synthetic will make a small leak a big leak, so I've thought about changing the Mobil 1 syn 75-90, has been in for a year, to a conventional gear oil. If you look close at pic, on the bottom bolt is a drop of oil. Any help fixing this leak will be appreciated. Bill

 

[bgilbert]

another pic, cant figure out how to get more than one pic on same post

 

[Dfeland]

It looks like the seal went bad. All you have to do to hold the drveshaft is lock in the hubs and it won't move and then get a wrench with a cheater/extension on it and then they should come right out. They have to be tight/lock-tighted in there becuase it sucks when one of them comes out going down the freeway. After you get the driveshaft out then there is a big nut that holds the flange that the driveshaft bolts to, take that off and inspect for a groove in the flange. If there is a groove then replace both the flange and seal if there is no groove then just pop in a new seal and put silicone on the splines so oil can't travel down the splines and leak that way. Hope that helps.

 

[bgilbert]

update

heres some more pics, I can see in this one that this seal is probly toast. The one behind the big 1 1/8" nut. But what about the one in this next pic? Book calls it an oil seal. After removing the nut and flange, oil began coming out from that oil seal. Normal or should I replace that seal too? Thanks alot Dfeland, you've already been a great help. Bill

 

[bgilbert]

another pic, by the way, where do I buy these seals? Napa, shop that does this type of repair?

 

[Dfeland]

By the looks of your flange/yoke it appears that it has a groove in it. Just to be sure that you stop the leak for good I would consider a new one maybe as much as $50 or so. I would think that napa or any reputable parts place will have the seal. In the case of the 205 there are so many variations of it I would take out the four bolts the hold the seal in and take it to the parts shop with you just to make sure they give you the right one. Going back in just clean up the aluminum housing that the seal is pressed into and silicone the back of it real well and bolt her up. A large socket or piece of pipe works very nice in tapping the seal in and out, if you leave it on the truck a slide hammer works well. Put some grease on the new seal BE SURE TO LOCKTIGHT THE NUT when putting the flange back on and LOCKTIGHT the bolts to the driveshaft. You might while you are there check the u-joints in the CV and replace and lube as necessary. Generally a seal fails for a reason. Hope that this helps. That repair should be good for another 100-150k. Have a Happy Day.

 

[Dfeland]

Oh yeah ditch that stupid rubber star looking thing and just clean the splines of the shaft and the inner splines of the flange good and silicone that. That way lube can't migrate down between the splines like I have seen them do.

 

[Philip]

I would consider a new one maybe as much as $50 or so.

If your NAPA dealer can't find the yoke in their books like mine can't. Then hang on. I was quoted a price of $128 from Dodge a couple of years ago when the bolts striped out in mine.

 

[Dfeland]

Call drivetrain direct or Bluementhals in Oklahoma City. DON"T call dodge. Bluementhals is one of the largest drivetrain rebuilders and suppliers in the U. S. Their facility takes up about an entire city block! Let me know if you need the number they also advertise in TDR magazine.

 

[bgilbert]

pic of aluminum housing, of course i cant figure out how to get the seal out. Does all the rubber in the pic, of the one shown forward, come out? I imagine when i see a new one, I'll understand. As far as the flange/yoke goes there's no grooves in it, so im gonna stick with it.

 

[bgilbert]

reverse side of aluminum housing.

 

[JFitzgerald]

Yeah, all of the black part is the seal that is to be replaced. You could also check on a speedy sleeve to fix the yoke. Just a note on the seal - watch what you get. The quality varies. I don't care for the ones that are open on the back side. The good ones are like what was in it from the factory. They're stronger and heavier. Might have to go to the dealer to get the good one. I went through this before, and the cheapies don't last.



I haven't seen nuts used on the bolts that attach the driveshaft to the yoke before. On mine, the yoke is threaded for the bolts. I believe my '93 was the same.



Good luck. Let us know what a yoke costs if you go that way. I may need one too.

 

[Dfeland]

Probably the easiest way to get the seal out is to put it back on the truck and use a slide hammer taking care not to nick the housing. Or you could take it to your local drivetrain place and they will replace it for you in their press for $10. Or you could get some pipe one size the same as the backside of the seal to push it out the front while another size pipe holds the housing but is big enough for the seal to go through. Hope that helps.

 

[jlast]

suggest a screw driver through the backside onto the front outer metal piece of the seal to get it off, little tappy.



A apearance of a groove is ok, anything you can catch your finger nail on is cause for replacement or another route. Speed sleeve, or since your replaceing the front seal just dont drive it to seat all the way back in, or ask to see if they sell a offset seal.



I always reuse the rubber along with transfercase sealer.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Standard Trans may have parts and seals too. 800-std-tran. They are also easy to talk with and get advice. You might be able to put the new seal in to a different depth and avoid the groove in the yoke. Might also be able to get a saver sleeve to press onto the yoke. Another possibility for the yoke etc. is 4 wheel parts 800-421-1050 in Gardena CA.



I suggest going to LE 607 lube. I had rear seals leak twice before going from synthetic to LE. The LE has naturally occurring ingredients that keep the seals soft and swells them for a tight fit. It is petro, but very highly refined and with an excellent additives package.

 

[bgilbert]

job complete

I'd like to thank everyone who has helped me, especially DFeland, solve my T-case leak. Took both the big 1 1/8 nut seal (chewed up star looking seal) and the aluminum housing with the round oil seal in it to local spring shop, who originally was going to have this job, got a new 'star' seal, and a new oil seal, had them press the old out and new in, all for nothing just for being a good customer, thanks Burke Spring! Ok back to the work, already had everything cleaned and ready. Put RTV ultra copper silicone on back of Al. housing, lubed inside of oil seal. RTV on output shaft and inside grooves of flange, locktighted all bolts and nuts. Put back together. Drain/refill T-case with conventional gear oil 80-90. Not real sure about synthetics any more. Very simple job- take it apart, change seals, put back together- that is when you have the help of fellow TDR members showing you the way. I will say that I may have found why the big nut seal failed, b4 I could grab the front d/s and move it back and forth and it would budge alittle at the T-case flange. When I removed the big nut, it was very loose, almost finger tight. The T-case flange must have vibrated around and chewed up the star seal. Now after I have it back together, very TIGHT, the front driveshaft doesnt budge up or down,left to right, it still rotates freely. The truck has sit for 24 hrs and no leaks!! Hope this info helps others w/ same problem. Thanks guys. Bill

 

[Dfeland]

Thats what I love about this site everyone has there own way of doing things none more right than the other but in the end it always works out. This definately is the best 35 bucks a year that I spend. Although I have to admit that since the BOMB bug hit me it has cost me a alot more than that. Way to go TDR!! :{

 

[Excessive Force]

TTT

After doing a search for an alternative source for the front output drive flange,as mine had a bad groove in it. (the st***er said there was 7 on national backorder,and couldn't tell me when he would get one )One 5 star steal**'s price was $137. 00,and another was $175. 00!! What's up with that?After reading this thread i called Blumenthals,and they offer a replacement for $67. 50. The place that wanted $175. 00 for the flange is the same s@#%&*r that wanted $65. 00 for a fuel filter on my '02,and i got one down the road at a truck shop for $13. 00. Same exact filter,man those MOPAR boxes must be EXPENSIVE. #@$%!