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22.5s on a SRW

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First gen. question

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Has anyone ran a 22. 5 tire on a single rear wheel application? I'm contemplating going with a more cost efficient alternative for tires, and like the extended mileage (150k - 300k) a heavy duty tire allows on a pickup.

The 255/70/22. 5 tires are roughly 36. 5" x 10. 1" and can be found in great used condition for cheaper than I can buy another set of 315/75/16 Toyo MTs. I realize ride quality with be a little rougher with 120 psi in the tires, but for the next few years, I need something that is going to last, going to get better fuel mileage, and doesn't have to look great.

The problem I'm having is finding a rim to fit on a SRW. I know they sell the 8 to 10 bolt adapters for the lug pattern, but how do I get a wheel to fit dimensionally with the backspacing? Has anyone tried recentering steel wheels themselves or have a cost effective alternative?

Thanks, Eric
 
Why are you considering the 22. 5 over the 19. 5 tires???



About the only application up here for that size you are looking at is on lowbed trailers.

That means that take-offs tires have been sitting a lot, overloaded a lot, have no casing value.

Just don't think that the donor gene pool is going to be that great unless you buy new.



Just curious.....



Mike. :)
 
Four wheel drive Ram truck owners are constantly complaining about the quality of Ram 4x4 front end parts. You'll be accentuating any inherent weaknesses in the front end and wearing front end parts out very rapidly with extremely heavy wheels and tires like those.

Your truck is probably geared 3. 73 so your effective differential ratios in OD will make OD unusable below 75 or 80 mph and load startability will be significantly reduced.

The wheels, adapters, and tires will all cost an arm and a leg making any financial gain by longer wearing tires impossible.

Ride will be horrible. Your dental work and kidneys will suffer.

Other than those problems and a couple more I've overlooked, the wheels and tires may look good.
 
To answer the above... I don't think tire weight will be a huge issue. I'm running 315/75 Toyo M/Ts now. Per the Toyo website, a low profile 22. 5 tire will only be 9 lbs heavier than what I have now. I understand the wheels will be heavier as well, but we're not talking a huge difference.

The tires I have now have a 34. 9" diameter, and a 255/70 R22. 5 has about a 36. 1" diameter. I don't think a 4% difference in gearing is going to be a deal breaker. I can put around in OD at 50 mph now, so another 4% on top of that is doable.

My biggest concern right now is long term money savings. The past 2 sets of Toyo M/Ts I've had seemed soft... as in only lasting 35k miles. I tried a set of Toyo ATs in the 285/75 variety when pulling heaving to Alaska. I ate 2/3 of the tread in 10,300 miles, and I stopped in the middle of the trip to rotate.

With job cutbacks, 2 kids, trying to fix up a foreclosure house, etc, times are different for me. I can't afford $1400 sets of tires every 16 months. This truck is my daily driver, and I can deal with a little rougher ride. I've gone to great lengths with the suspension and shocks to help with ride quality already, so I don't think it will be unbearable with a stiffer tire.

I'm not set on 22. 5s. I would consider 19. 5s, but from what I read, 19. 5 tires may go 50k - 80k miles. A good Michelin XD2 22. 5 can go 300k on a pickup application. My thinking too, is that a skinny tire with a more highway tread pattern aired up to 110 psi is going to give better fuel economy than a wide mud tire at 60 psi.

Again, my only concern for the next few years is the economics. Things are tight, and every little bit means alot more than it did 2 years ago. It's not what I'd prefer, but the family and kids come first now...

... and, Harvey, at least we still have dental insurance at work (for now), so we can throw that concern out ;)

Evidently Alcoa makes a "mini float" rim in a 22. 5, but I can't find alot of information on it.

--Eric
 
About the only application up here for that size you are looking at is on lowbed trailers.
That means that take-offs tires have been sitting a lot, overloaded a lot, have no casing value.
Just don't think that the donor gene pool is going to be that great unless you buy new.

That is a good point on the used tires Mike. But, if I have to buy new 22. 5s at $575/each, it still beats buying more Toyos at $325/each if I get 300k vs 35k out of them.
 
For reference, here is a truck with 255/70 22. 5s on it. It's not the huge, lifted, mud tire look, but rather a heavy duty, fuel efficient, long lasting sleek upgrade. I wonder why there's not more information out on these. This is the ONLY truck I could find with what I'm looking for, and I can't find any information on it. I understand it is harder on front end components, brakes, etc, but there's ways around that. I'm sure that this setup is not as hard on the truck as mobbin' Carli style with 37s down the Baja... and things hold up pretty well doing that actually. I'm sure there's a big downside, but I haven't come across it yet.


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--Eric
 
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Eric,

If your genuine concern is, in fact, economics or cost per mile you'd be better off with a set of OEM wheels and a set of Michelins in highway tread. Michelins cost less per mile to use but may not offer the winter traction some want or expect from 4 x 4 tires.

Another excellent choice would be a used set of 19. 5" steel wheels and regroovable then retreadable commercial grade 19. 5" tires.

There's no way you're going to get around the high initial cost of 22. 5" rims and tires and cost per mile is likely to be high even if they run 300k miles.
 
Eric,

If your genuine concern is, in fact, economics or cost per mile you'd be better off with a set of OEM wheels and a set of Michelins in highway tread. Michelins cost less per mile to use but may not offer the winter traction some want or expect from 4 x 4 tires.

Another excellent choice would be a used set of 19. 5" steel wheels and regroovable then retreadable commercial grade 19. 5" tires.

There's no way you're going to get around the high initial cost of 22. 5" rims and tires and cost per mile is likely to be high even if they run 300k miles. <!-- google_ad_section_end -->

That may be so. I found a set of 6 wheels and tires like I'm looking for, in the 255/70/22. 5 size, that include the 8 to 10 bolt adapters, for $1750. That's a great price, they were bought new and run minimally on a pickup. The wheels are ugly but functional. This is what I'm looking for, but obviously I can't use them as they are for a dually application.

I keep getting conflicting information. Some people say there's really no mileage difference between 19. 5s and low profile 22. 5s... and some say there's a factor of 4.

I would go to a stock setup, but that puts the truck running pretty high rpm (2,500 or so) at 65 - 70 mph. That's almost past the comfort level of running the VE pump... and certainly past the optimum fuel economy point. For that reason, I'd like to go a little taller than stock, but stay skinny for fuel mileage. Looks don't matter. I'll just spray can an ugly rim matte black and be happy.

Thanks for the thoughts/help...

--Eric
 
Anything in a Duragrappler that would work for you? Nearly all reports of this tire seem to be positive for strength and mileage yield. Owners who tow or carry slide-in campers seem to be very pleased.
 
Personal opinion, the 22. 5" ones will look too big for a first gen. I have done extensive searching on this when thinking of rims for the crew project.

I have found 19. 5 is the right size, and can still get load H range long life tires for it.

Try here at least for some ideas:

Rickson Wheel Manufacturing
 
Don't tell your wife I showed this to you... ... BEAST SS 19. 5" DIRECT BOLT-ON



And there is no way you can make this as cheap as running 8 or 10 ply tires, any way you crunch the numbers..... If you drove 100k a year, I could see it, trying to keep from having flats, blowouts, and buying new tires away from home, but for what you're trying to do... . ehhhh, no. Sorry, little brother:eek:. I've done this, by the way, and it'll eat your ball joints and king pins like candy..... not to mention shock and spring bushings. I have a set of 22. 5 wheels made by Stockton wheel, and I ran full size 11L-22. 5 take offs on one of mine in the summer..... The steering brace was welded up several times on the frame, my shocks were giving out every 10-15k..... I ran them at 100psi and they'd beat you to death, and at 60psi, they'd ride ok, but wore on the outside edges and would walk a little... ... I'm gonna go thumbs down for a long term ride modification... :( They certainly did eliminate any brush puntures, though!!! :cool:
 
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If i want a truck id go get something that is heavy enough to handle the weight

go get a peterbuilt 330 with no engine and the find 2 ton 4x4 axels and put on it then you have something , i think it ride like a lumber waggon at Homedepot heck the steering gear boxes bust out with stock tires on the gen 1 dodges
 
My cousin has a set of 19. 5's on his 04. 5. He tows a 48' weekend warrior with it, and the 19. 5's were the only tire he could find to support the pin weight. He has the Kore chase package on his truck, and doesnt complain about the ride one bit. I believe he has hankooks on it, and the truck looks nice. The only thing he doesnt like, is he cant air down when we go to the lake. It will trash those sidewalls instantly supposedly.



Having said all that... he recently bought a volvo semi to tow the trailer with. I bet he would be willing to sell you the 19. 5's for a good deal, with tires in really good shape. Let me know if you are interested.



I wouldnt worry one bit about 19. 5's killing the king pins in the first gen. I also wouldnt worry one bit about the gearing with a 36" 22. 5 since you have a getrag.



I was in the same boat you are in a few months ago. I considered doing the same to my 1st gen instead of doing the RC conversion. I also considered putting my 04 back to stock to get better mileage and away from 2K$ sets of toyos. My solution in the end? I bought a 1997 saturn for 800$. It gets 45mpg, saves me about 400$ a month in fuel, and isnt *horrible* to drive. Its due for tires now... I can get a set of 4 installed for a whopping 250$ lol. Some say its dumb to have a nice truck sitting not getting used, but eh... I feel much better about it now vs wearing out a 50K$ truck driving to work every day.
 
I bought a 1997 saturn for 800$. It gets 45mpg, saves me about 400$ a month in fuel, and isnt *horrible* to drive. Its due for tires now... I can get a set of 4 installed for a whopping 250$ lol. Some say its dumb to have a nice truck sitting not getting used, but eh... I feel much better about it now vs wearing out a 50K$ truck driving to work every day.



..... and spent $300 on window tint so no one can see it's me at the stop lights... . :-laf



That's a good suggestion, though... . And then, when you have a hard weekend wrenching, and the truck's still not back together, it's no problem, as you can still get to work.....
 
..... and spent $300 on window tint so no one can see it's me at the stop lights... . :-laf



That's a good suggestion, though... . And then, when you have a hard weekend wrenching, and the truck's still not back together, it's no problem, as you can still get to work.....



You hit the nail on the head EXACTLY!!!! Window tint cures all!



I do feel dumb owning a car. I'd never owned one before.
 
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