Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 24 valve return fuel line fittings

[w-cummins]

Hello I'm trying to connect to the return lines on the back of the motor with a "T" to combine the return from my Mallory bypass regulator. Now the problem, I can't seem to find out about the fittings that are used on the lines. The "T" that's on the hard line looks like a parker fitting ( it has a P cast in it) but, I can't seem to find that style of fittings on the parker web site. The site lists every other type of fitting known to man, but not the style used on the truck:-( BTW this is on a 98. 5 motor in case they changed the setup on later models.



Thanks



William.....

 

[TowPro]

Is the P maybe mean Metric? I guess you have your pump and regulator mounted up on the motor? When I attempted to mount mine back on the frame, I ran the return line into the small hose that goes up to the fillter neck.

 

[Steve Campbell]

William...

I can't help with type of fitting, but I can tell you what I did.



I took the rubber covered hard plastic returnline loose at the quick-connect fitting at the back of the engine. I cut the rubber and plastic lines where I wanted to splice in and then heated up a brass tee with hose barbs. With the tee still hot, I was able to "push" it into the cut ends of the hard plastic return line. Without the heat, the plastic line would not swell enough to go over the 5/16ths tee. I did put clamps on, but actually doubt if they were needed. It was a very tight fit.



I hooked my regulator to the "pre-filter" port on my 99 to have a kind of farmered up version of the "fuel preparator".

 

[w-cummins]

Originally posted by TowPro

Is the P maybe mean Metric? I guess you have your pump and regulator mounted up on the motor? When I attempted to mount mine back on the frame, I ran the return line into the small hose that goes up to the fillter neck.

Well no only the regulator is mounted on the motor the fuel pump is going to be mounted back in the frame rail, that way I have high pressure and full flow to the motor. the return line will be #6an to a "T" at the dr side of the head and join the stock return line there then #6an back to a "T" between the tanks, then I will use the old feed lines from the dual tanks as the return lines. I'm going to plumb the two tanks togher with #10AN lines to sumps that I'm going to add to the bottom of the tanks. Connected to #8 screen pre filter and on to the 140 Mallory... .

 

[w-cummins]

Here is a picture of the fitting type. The picture is not the best The flare on the end of the tube is very slight and appears not to do much in the fitting the seal seem to me made only by the rubber wedge shaped washer in the Nut end of the fitting... .





These fittings don't seem to have the parker mark on them so it must be some type of "standard" fitting??

 

[Mark_Kendrick]

William,

the elbow looks to be a std NPT threaded connection the other looks like a std flare nut/hose. Both should be available at a plumbing supply. the only problem isusually size. Auto's use pretty small stuff in plumbing terms. once you get below 1/2" the pickin's are slim.



you should be able to get male flare to male or female npt adapters in T, straight, 90*. be carefulflares are measured in od and plumbing is measured in ID so the sizes are misleading at times.



FWIW,

Mark

 

[w-cummins]

Originally posted by Mark_Kendrick

William,

the elbow looks to be a std NPT threaded connection the other looks like a std flare nut/hose. Both should be available at a plumbing supply. the only problem isusually size. Auto's use pretty small stuff in plumbing terms. once you get below 1/2" the pickin's are slim.



you should be able to get male flare to male or female npt adapters in T, straight, 90*. be carefulflares are measured in od and plumbing is measured in ID so the sizes are misleading at times.



FWIW,

Mark

They are not standard flare stuff as the flare does not do any of the sealing on these fittings the rubber washer that's tapered provides the seal and seals to the outside of the tube and the very end of the fitting

 

[w-cummins]

here is another set of pictures that turned out better

 

[w-cummins]

etc... .

 

[w-cummins]

I looked over the fittings and the right angle one seems to be marked with an A connected to a F maby that would help to identify a company that makes this type of fittings ?? Thanks

William... ...

 

[w-cummins]

I'm back to the conversion project after too long... I know I'm using wishfull thinking but, I thought that maby some one that did not see the old thread would pop up and say, that's a XYZ fitting made by Co. PDQ



Thanks

William Cummins

 

[JHansen]

William-I would almost say A would stand for Aeroquip..... I am with you-I can't believe Cummins would get special fittings made up when they could buy them off-the-shelf from a manufacturer.



Jason

 

[HVAC]

My Thought

I ran the 140 gph pump a couple years ago and I didn't use the reg. The reg. is for use with gas carbs where about 6 psi is required.



Unless I've missed something here, skip the reg and extra plumbing.

 

[w-cummins]

Re: My Thought

Originally posted by HVAC

I ran the 140 gph pump a couple years ago and I didn't use the reg. The reg. is for use with gas carbs where about 6 psi is required.



Unless I've missed something here, skip the reg and extra plumbing.

Well even if I did not want to run the regulator I would still want to use the #6 return line and need to attach it to the stock fitting The regulator that comes with the pump is adjustable and is set for about 14psi from the factory I think that you would have to change the spring to run it with a gas motor with carbs.

All I know is that the pump moves way more fuel than the engine can use so I'm going to send the extra over 15 psi back to the tanks via the path of least resistance and see if I get longer life out of the pump ( and yes I know that it's internally bypassed)



William.....

 

[B_Rud]

Are you sure you want to combine the two return flows. Seems like a bottleneck of sorts might be created. Just speculating but it might be better to run a separate return line and just put a new hole in the top of the fuel tank. That would solve your fitting issue.

 

[Steve Campbell]

Rather than a new hole in the top of the tank...

"Tee" into the breather hose at the fuel cap.

 

[Mark_Kendrick]

That would prevent refueling with the truck ignition on.

 

[w-cummins]

Originally posted by B_Rud

Are you sure you want to combine the two return flows. Seems like a bottleneck of sorts might be created. Just speculating but it might be better to run a separate return line and just put a new hole in the top of the fuel tank. That would solve your fitting issue.

Well it would if there were a "Stock" line... I guess it's time to come clean... . This is a conversion into another brand of truck The transplant truck had a gas motor and the fuel line ran down the wrong side of the truck, Into a electric valve to each fuel tank.

as did the return line ( that way the fuel was returned to the tank it was removed from. so after the abortion, the lines will run down the drivers side frame rail an AN#6 return and an AN#8 from Mallory pump, to an AN#10 on to each tank with its new tank mounted sump. I will use the former feed lines ( larger tubes) for the hookup of the AN 6 return line back at the tanks)

some more fuel will most likely return to the closer tank but that shouldn't matter as they are going to be plumbed tougher at the feed lines.....



William... .

 

[w-cummins]

Originally posted by Mark_Kendrick

That would prevent refueling with the truck ignition on.

That may be a "Good" thing

I seem to remember that the fuel pumps at all the stations I have seen of late, strongly recomend you turn off the truck before filling up