Archived 24 valve timing??

[2-ND TIME]

Has any one done much with the timing on these engines or others that can say If the engine timing is late what idoes it do to engine HP and engine heating ???

 

[MCummings]

Timing is controlled by the ECM and VP44. Only cost effective way to change timing is by an aftermarket box.



24V's cannot (easily?) have the timing changed mechanicaly like the 12V's. I think you could dig around long enough with the VP44 an change timing, but you're looking at lots of money, and VP44's aren't rebuildable, but you can now buy re-man units.



One advantage is for around $800 or so you can change timing, add about 100HP and have smoke control all in a simple "box" that should take no more than 15 minutes to install/remove.



or more complex with another box you can have more HP, more smoke control, and gauges, but no timing.



My $. 02

 

[2-ND TIME]

24valve Timing

Thank You for answering the post what I need to know is????? If the ECM is controlling the timing for fuel delivery and I am low on power and have bucking this is all a fuel delivery problem???? and an ECM problem?????? also the engine heats up quickly or very quickly making dynoing almost imposable this is also a fuel timing problem and, as well as a non working viscious fan .

 

[MCummings]

Re: 24valve Timing

Originally posted by 2-ND TIME

low on power



have bucking



the engine heats up quickly or very quickly making dynoing almost imposable



non working viscious fan .

Low Power/Bucking,, Sounds like a Bad lift pump to me. The timing will be horrendously off with the VP44 trying to pull a Vacuum, both advanced and retarded (some cylinders fire advanced, some retarded)



First test is to see if you can hear your lit pump running with the first "key-on" The pump should run for about an 1/8th of a second or so, then "Bump" the starter, the Lift pump should run for 20 or so seconds. If you can hear the pump, that's a good sign, but doesn't mean that it is working... Check your fuel pressures. . Either on top of your filter housing, (Test port closes to center of housing is post-filter, farthest out is pre-filter)

A healthy lift pump should have atleast 15PSI at prime (engine off, Lift pump Running) and, depending on mods, 8-2PSI at WOT (Big injectors, High HP "box", will bring PSI lower)



High Heating / Quick heating Sounds like a stuck Thermostat (closed) Try running your heater on High and see if your temps drop a little.



Viscous Fan Clutch,, Cold be a problem,, but only if you are working the motor very hard. . Many members run fanless through the winter months,, even in temps up to 70*F





Hope this helps,,

Check those Lift Pump Pressures.

 

[2-ND TIME]

engine timing

Because of the lack on power that I have had since new and Had the lift pump not working for over a year and on my third l/p since new have two pressure senders and one gauge with a DPDT switch in between to monitor pressures they are good and still have the problem??????? Thanks still suspect ECM.