Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 24V CTD newbee( already have a 12V)

[Bug Out]

Well, after having a 12v 97 3500 5-speed for several years, I got a bug up my behind and bought a used 2000 quad cab, 4x4 auto. I love it, but have some questions for the 24V/A-Trans veterans.



( I kept my 3500. have too much invested to get rid of it!)



(1)The temp gauge does not fluctuate like the 12v, but on the other hand it runs at 190 steady. Is this normal?



(2) The auto trans is kinda different then from a gasser. (never drove a diesel auto before) it almost goes back to idle RPM's whenever you let off the throttle,unlike gassers.



Is this the TC lock everybody is always talking about, or lack of?



(3) If the kitty falls off, will this effect the electronic fuel pump /smog etc ? (The 12V was not a problem)



(4) The 3:54 ratio only alows for approx 10,000 towing. The auto trans scares me when i think of towing.



Is the stock trans ok for 10-12K towing without mods or would a TC "lock" work to help or should I junk the trans and get a modified one?



(5) the "edge" box i have read about for years but had no clue what it is. Can someone explain briefly what it is and does?



(6)What is the HP and torque of a non -ca CTD in 2000?



Thanks for your help. Now i have to bounce between both 12V and 24V to keep up. .

 

[jrollins]

well i will try to answer all these questions as well as i can, i am sure if i am wrong someone here will correct me.



#1 yes the 2000 and newer trucks came with a 190 deg T-stat, depending on ur climate and how hard loaded you run the truck u may get a little above 190 but i doubt u will by much, Many members including myself went to a 180 deg T-stat. DC begin putting 190's in the 2000 year model to raise engine temps and try to make the engine cleaner burning but in all other cummins applications the 180 T-stat is standard. I just personally like the engine to run a little cooler, i see no need to stress the components any more than i have to.



#2 never owned a auto, cant help u there



#3 There actually is no CAT on your truck, the Cat looking thing in front of the muffler is a resonator, and yes many members seem to lose theirs on the road somewhere???? No there are no adverse affects from its removal...



#4 I have the 3. 55 rear end in my truck, i do have the 5 speed but i still think my truck is rated at almost 13000 gvwr, but my truck was also ordered with a heavy rear spring package, but i am almost sure that the stock 3500 is close to 11500 gvwr.



#5 the Edge boxes basically modify the amount of fuel delivery and timing to achieve more horsepower. yes they work well



#6 i believe its around 235HP

 

[d.miner]

24 valve questions...

(1)The temp gauge does not fluctuate like the 12v, but on the other hand it runs at 190 steady. Is this normal?



180 WOULD BE MY CHOICE



(2) The auto trans is kinda different then from a gasser. (never drove a diesel auto before) it almost goes back to idle RPM's whenever you let off the throttle,unlike gassers.



NORMAL, I HAD AN 2001 THAT DID THE SAME THING... . TAKE YOU FOOT OF WHILE GOING DOWN THE ROAD AND IT WOULD DROP TO IDLE.



Is this the TQ lock everybody is always talking about, or lack of? NO



(3) If the kitty falls off, will this effect the electronic fuel pump /smog etc ? (The 12V was not a problem) RESONATOR



(4) The 3:54 ratio only alows for approx 10,000 towing. The auto trans scares me when i think of towing. 9000LB CAPACITY.



Is the stock trans ok for 10-12K towing without mods or would a TQ "lock" work to help or should I junk the trans and get a modified one?



YOU MAY WANT TO MODIFY, DTT 89% TORQUE CONVERTER WOULD BE A START.



(5) the "edge" box i have read about for years but had no clue what it is. Can someone explain briefly what it is and does?



ADDS APPROX 60 HP.



(6)What is the HP and torque of a non -ca CTD in 2000?



SHOULD BE 235 HP AND 460 FT LBS.

 

[Bug Out]

Thanks

Thanks for the replys. That clears up the questions I had. . All i need now is cash!! LOL

 

[Hohn]

loose torque converter

Some more auto trans info:



The reason that the engine goes to idle when you let off is because the torque converter is too loose, AND the dumb PCM is setup to unlock the torque converter when you let off the gas. This unlocking is what causes the cruise control shudder that many have reported.



Here's how the shudder works. You set the cruise. When you reach a certain speed, the cruise backs off on the fuel pedal, causing the TC to unlock. This makes the speed drop enough to make the CC give more on the fuel pedal. This causes a spike in acceleration, which sends you past your Cruise Control setting, which starts the whole process over again with the torque converter unlocking.



The best way around the shuddering is to drive fast enough to where the engine/trans is always under load when you have the CC on... this will keep the converter locked.



Let me second the recommendations on the DTT 89% converter, or the ATS TRIPLELOCK converter. Both are excellent pieces. Converter upgrades work best when also used with a valve body upgrade... .



**Disclaimer: I am a manual trans guy and have no firsthand experience with either of the above pieces. This is simply knowledge and consensus I have culled from other Auto trans posts.