Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 24v Reliabilty

[PARTSMANAL]

First post on the 24v side, I am a 12v man. After looking for a long time for a 98 12v, I bought a 2500 5 spd. Wrong choice, the 2500 does not have the capacity for any size 5th wheel and I am sick of the 5spd already. However, you guys have me scared to death about the problems with the pumps on the 24v. I am on my second 12v and the simplicity and reliability of the 12v is hard to beat. My question is, can you scan a prospective 24v with a hand held scanner for codes and or fuel pressure before I buy?If the lift pump is replaced with a new style will the inj pump still be a problem? I would have bought a 3500 auto 12v but they are really hard to find. Thanks

 

[Turbo Tim 1]

Where are you? There is a real nice looking 12 valve 4x4 3500 for sale near me, not sure what they are asking or any particulars but the truck looked real sharp from the road.



I had a 93 before this truck and the injection pump went at 110-120,000 miles, my neighbor at the time had a p pump 12 valve and his went at around 100,000 miles so I guess they all could have problems even though it's not as likely



My current truck has 97,200 miles and I haven't had any problems yet, knock on wood or wood substitute! When I bought the truck used two and a half years ago I started coming here and learned of the lift pump problems, so I checked it out. The truck had 24,000 miles and the lift pump was almost dead, 6-8 psi or so at idle and 0 going down the road and I had no idea how long it had been that way but I got it replaced and shortly after put an Edge Comp on it and pierced the pump wire. Currently my fuel system is still stock but I keep an eye on fuel pressure and haven't had any trouble, 73,000 miles on the current lift pump.



Things that I believe but can't prove that help the life of the lift pump and therefore the VP are never letting the tank go below 1/4 tank. You can see fuel pressures dropping off if you let it run low. I use a fuel additive but haven't always so the jury is out there. That's my two cents. I trust my VP as much as I trust the rest of them. Would I rather have the p pump, probably but this is what I have and I am happy.

 

[mmclaughlin]

You can do a quick check of codes by cycling the key on and off 3 times and then the codes are displayed in the odometer window. This only gives you recient codes, and will not always list all the codes the truck may have. The best way to check is to get it scanned. But again, there is always the chance that the codes could have been erased. Checking the fuel pressure of the LP is easy on these trucks - if you are looking at a 98-99 you can check it from the fuel filter, if it's a 2000 or newer, then you can check it right from the VP44. Do a search for checking fuel pressure and you'll have all the info you will ever need.



My truck is pretty much stock - 2001. 5 - and my first lift pump went (~50,000) so I replaced it with another LP, but that one went out less then 10000 miles later. So I got the FASS system afer the second LP. It was $600 but it has been great so far and I haven't had any problems. The fuel pressure has been solid ever since. My VP44 is still cranking away (knock on wood) at 75,000 without any issues, yet.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

Tim, where do you get your fuel?



my old '91 has almost 400k on the original injection pump.



P7100's are even tougher than the VE's



if a friend of mine were buying a 24v, I'd tell them to get an aftermarket lift pump setup on it FIRST THING! same way I'd tell them to kill the KDP on a 12v.



it's a ticking time bomb.



Forrest

 

[KBalzuweit]

Keep looking I have come across a couple 98 12 valves in the last few weeks. They are out there and they have no lift pump problems to deal with. Thats what I have been looking for also, the ones I have found have all been nice trucks. Too nice for me, I just want to put it to work. If you search you will find the one you want!

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

For the vast majority, the ills of the fuel delivery in the 24 valve engines are overblown - with what we DO know as to inherent weaknesses - mostly caused by poor fuel quality and lubricity of diesel fuel in the US - are easily corrected for the most part by a relative handfull of added parts that can be had for well under $200 - or a bit more for a complete kit. Mine ran about $125 and have been trouble free for 2 years and 27,000 miles - mostly RV towing miles and with the added Comp as displayed in my sig.



The addition of a pusher or similar pump will go a LOOooong way towards eliminating any significant fuel delivery problems or major failures - guages are a must in any case to monitor overall performance...



There are NO guarantees as to problem-free operation with any engine type - there's always a certain degree of likelihood of problems - and those can occur with a 12 valver just as they do with the others.