Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Hello,
Some may recall that a few years ago I got myself a 24VISB still bolted to the remaining frame members of the nose of a dearly departed 01 3500.....
I have come to learn that it may not have been the deal I thought it was so now I wish to look into evaluating and perhaps salvaging what I have.....
My objective now, or actually when it warms up, is to figure out how to get this engine to start and maybe even get to an idle if possible... .
QUESTIONS:
1. I need to source both an oil pan and valve cover. This is my biggest concern as I have to believe a lot of moisture has traveled through the inside of the engine with both of these 'covers' compromised with damage from the accident. And yes, no oil shows on the dipstick... .
2. Some local folks suggest that after I button up the oil and valve covers that I soak (top off) the engine with pure kerosene and leave it for quite awhile so that kerosene can soak into what ever corrosion might have creeped into the engine. Thoughts on this or better ideas regarding this concern? Naturally that kerosene would have to be removed before attempting a start...
3. I will need to turn the engine over before any electrical effort or attempts to seek a running idle. I am told that a large bar/socket to the alternator pulley is a good way to do this. Thoughts?
4. I need to research what wiring is needed to get the ISB sensors satisfied enough to allow it to run. I only have the engine ECM and no vehicle PCM. Perhaps this is something Marco might be able to help me with? I doubt I can get my Smarty on this engine for quite some time to come...
5. Mechanically, can I run an ISB without a transmission attached? If yes, is the engine's bell housing sturdy enough to bolt the starter to by itself? Currently the starter is still attached to the cables but not bolted in as the threads or nuts were on the missing automatic transmission... Thoughts?
6. For short testing purposes only (get to idle), can I avoid the intercooler and associated plumbing? Or should I find a way to 'jump' out the missing intercooler with something like 4" heavy dairy hose? Again, for just this idle testing. As to the missing radiator, just a water hose to see if I can start the beast and then a new small plastic radiator from a 95 jimmy when I seek a short idle test. the fan blades are gone so no worry there for the moment...
7. Finally, if I try to start this, how rigid of a stand should I make? On one hand I thought to just strap the frame down to my car hauler since the motor mounts are intact and still attached to those frame members. Or should I go through the trouble to make a rigid box frame from some scrap 4" channel I have laying around and then mount the motor mounts to it?
========
Naturally I have to close up the vacuum pump port on the engine where I cannibalized the vacuum pump and power steering pump for my 99. Also, I have a new $70 lift pump to replace the one I stole for my 99.
If I get close to starting this, I have to do something with the AC pump and lines... .
========
Bottom line I am looking for some thoughts and perhaps lessons learned from others who have tinkered with an extracted ISB from a Dodge wreck... .
I really want to see what I have before again offering it up for sale or trying to use it for it's originally intended purpose.
Some local folks suggest moving towards the old mechanical fuel injection pump, this VP44 that has not fired in several years but only had 27K on it when 'turned off' by the wreck it was involved with...
I am not considering parting this out just yet. If I do I will put it in our TDR classifieds. I have two rigs that would do well with this engine if it is not a total loss..... Plus, I've never looked to see if my 99 has the '53' issue...
Thx,
David in Vermont
Some may recall that a few years ago I got myself a 24VISB still bolted to the remaining frame members of the nose of a dearly departed 01 3500.....
I have come to learn that it may not have been the deal I thought it was so now I wish to look into evaluating and perhaps salvaging what I have.....
My objective now, or actually when it warms up, is to figure out how to get this engine to start and maybe even get to an idle if possible... .
QUESTIONS:
1. I need to source both an oil pan and valve cover. This is my biggest concern as I have to believe a lot of moisture has traveled through the inside of the engine with both of these 'covers' compromised with damage from the accident. And yes, no oil shows on the dipstick... .
2. Some local folks suggest that after I button up the oil and valve covers that I soak (top off) the engine with pure kerosene and leave it for quite awhile so that kerosene can soak into what ever corrosion might have creeped into the engine. Thoughts on this or better ideas regarding this concern? Naturally that kerosene would have to be removed before attempting a start...
3. I will need to turn the engine over before any electrical effort or attempts to seek a running idle. I am told that a large bar/socket to the alternator pulley is a good way to do this. Thoughts?
4. I need to research what wiring is needed to get the ISB sensors satisfied enough to allow it to run. I only have the engine ECM and no vehicle PCM. Perhaps this is something Marco might be able to help me with? I doubt I can get my Smarty on this engine for quite some time to come...
5. Mechanically, can I run an ISB without a transmission attached? If yes, is the engine's bell housing sturdy enough to bolt the starter to by itself? Currently the starter is still attached to the cables but not bolted in as the threads or nuts were on the missing automatic transmission... Thoughts?
6. For short testing purposes only (get to idle), can I avoid the intercooler and associated plumbing? Or should I find a way to 'jump' out the missing intercooler with something like 4" heavy dairy hose? Again, for just this idle testing. As to the missing radiator, just a water hose to see if I can start the beast and then a new small plastic radiator from a 95 jimmy when I seek a short idle test. the fan blades are gone so no worry there for the moment...
7. Finally, if I try to start this, how rigid of a stand should I make? On one hand I thought to just strap the frame down to my car hauler since the motor mounts are intact and still attached to those frame members. Or should I go through the trouble to make a rigid box frame from some scrap 4" channel I have laying around and then mount the motor mounts to it?
========
Naturally I have to close up the vacuum pump port on the engine where I cannibalized the vacuum pump and power steering pump for my 99. Also, I have a new $70 lift pump to replace the one I stole for my 99.
If I get close to starting this, I have to do something with the AC pump and lines... .
========
Bottom line I am looking for some thoughts and perhaps lessons learned from others who have tinkered with an extracted ISB from a Dodge wreck... .
I really want to see what I have before again offering it up for sale or trying to use it for it's originally intended purpose.
Some local folks suggest moving towards the old mechanical fuel injection pump, this VP44 that has not fired in several years but only had 27K on it when 'turned off' by the wreck it was involved with...
I am not considering parting this out just yet. If I do I will put it in our TDR classifieds. I have two rigs that would do well with this engine if it is not a total loss..... Plus, I've never looked to see if my 99 has the '53' issue...
Thx,
David in Vermont
