2500 vs 3500

[ACF]

I have an 05 2500. So I take it the only diff in the 2500 vs the 3500 is add-leafs in the rear.

 

[Hawkeye 04]

and cab lights

 

[JWChessell]

Take a look at this discussion from June of 2003:



2500 QC LWB vs 3500 QC LWB SRW



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Can anyone help me figure out the difference(s) between the 2500 QC LWB 8' bed and the 3500 QC LWB 8' bed SRW?



I've gathered as much information as I can, spec sheets, lists, technical data, and I've gone down to the dealer and crawled around under the trucks. The only difference(s) I can find between the two are that the 3500 has overload springs in order to increase its payload capacity (an extra 760 lbs) and towing capacity (an add'l 550 lbs) and the 3500 has cab clearance lights on the roof because it's a DOT requirement. The 3500 SRW does not even have the red running light(s) in the middle of the tailgate. Curb weight is almost identical -- an increase of around 300 lbs for the 3500 SRW, of which about 2/3s can be accounted for by the overload springs, brackets, U-bolts, frame-stops, etc.



Everything else is identical: The axle capacities, the thickness of the front and rear springs, turning radius and everything else I could find: absolutely identical.



What's not identical is the price: An add'l $500 invoice price for the 3500 SRW over the 2500. As the cab clearance lights as an option for the 2500 cost $89 (MSRP, not invoice), that means the two sets of overload springs cost about $425. 00 invoice.



Is that the only difference, or is there something else about the 3500 that I'm missing in all this technical data?



JWChessell

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06-12-2003, 10:04 AM #23

wyosteve

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JW, what you've outlined is it as far as the difference.

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06-12-2003, 11:08 AM #24

Dean Upson

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Quote:

Can anyone help me figure out the difference(s) between the 2500 QC LWB 8' bed and the 3500 QC LWB 8' bed SRW?







The brakes are bigger on the 3500.



Dean

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06-12-2003, 12:02 PM #25

RankRam

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Dean if you get the HO 2500 you get the bigger axle so are the brakes the same as the 3500?

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05 Silver 3500 CTD 600 4X4 LWB Quad Cab NV5600 Pacbrake, Hot/Juice/Attitude. 285/70/17E's Toyo A/T's. 30" Magnaflow Muffler. A. R. E. Z Series Shell. Scotty 5.



Goodbye 48re!! 03 2500 4X4 HO 48re, Longbed Quad Cab.



Old truck: 99 2500 SB/QC 5-speed.



RV: 26' 05 Vortex Viper Toyhauler.



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06-12-2003, 12:04 PM #26

randyn

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Not positive, but from a spec sheet I got from dealer, the larger pistons in the brake calipers are on the dulley. I don't think they are larger on the srw.



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06-12-2003, 01:47 PM #27

Dean Upson

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I believe you get the dually calipers on the 3500 srw. 45mm on the 2500 and 51mm on the 3500 srw. I cannot speak for the 2500, but the 3500 brakes will stop you, period. The cab lights are not a requirement on the 3500 SRW. It is a requirement on trucks that are 96 inches wide.



Dean



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06-12-2003, 04:21 PM #28

sdbelt

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Eric, via my signature, or viewing my ride, you can see my 2003 HO 4 DR LB SRW. It's definitely possible.



3500 SRW adds overload springs to the spring pack, which really do work. Mine rides very nicely when our 11k 5er is loaded. The 5er has about a 2k hitch weight, which brings the overload springs into play, so I'm glad they are there.

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[JWChessell]

Also, an engineer friend had a good point: Compare the part numbers for the same part on the 2500 and the 3500... If the part number(s) for the rear axle, 3rd-member, wheel bearings, brake assembly, ring-and-pinion, leaf-springs, etc. , etc. are different, then the parts are different.

 

[ACF]

Seems as I have a 1 ton for all practical purposes. Guess you can go with some airbags in the 2500 and go with the 3500 GVWR.

 

[ACF]

The reason I was asking is that I am looking at slide in campers and with the 2500 it is easy to go over my 2100 pound payload capacity. If everything else is the same between the 2500 and 3500 then I am planning on going with airbags and taking my GVWR up to 9900 from 9000 for a 3000 pound payload capacity. I have weighed the truck on the scales to find my true payload rating. Just did not want to take any risks in doing the above, but from what I see the trucks are the same.

 

[TowPro]

When the officer opens you door (or looks at your owners card) and sees the sticker that says GVWR is 9000 lbs, You can preach all you want about the air bags to him, it ain't going to raise the GVWR.



I hear the main spring on the 3500 is weaker giving the 3500 a better ride empty.

They can run the weaker spring on the 3500 because it has the overload springs to take over when the load gets heavy.



I would expect (but don't really know) that the front springs on the 3500 are heaver as well.



I looked in the glovebox of an 06 3500 SRW 2wd 6 speed last night and was happy to see that piece of paper saying "Slide-in campers allowed". It also said "MAX camper weight of 1950 lbs"

 

[Grizzly]

Get a 3500 if for no other reason then the GVWR on the door in case of an insurance issue to do with overload. Since you are planning on hauling a camper, I'd opt for a 3500 Dually. Airbag do not raise the GVWR.

 

[ACF]

You both make good points, thank you. I already have the truck so I guess I will just stay withing the GVWR. Problem is campers are so heavy these days.

 

[TowPro]

I do see your point also, it would cause you much pain (read $) to sell your 05 to get an 06.



If it was me I would see what it would cost to add the helper springs. Spring shops should be able to do the job much cheeper then factory springs, but you might need factory spring stops on the frame.

 

[Grizzly]

Since you have the truck, consider a 5er instead of the camper.

 

[TowPro]

I have both. The slidein camper is great when you want to tow a trailer (with dirt bikes ) or you are making a long trip and its only function is a place to sleep (we used to use ours to visit the inlaws in GA). But if you are going somewhere where you are staying for a couple days you can't beat the 5er. (or a tow behind camper for that matter)

Much more room to move around in. Plus once you unhook the 5er you are free to drive where ever you want. With the Slide in camper you either have to unload it (can't go in mine when its up on jacks) or crank up the jacks, load everything up and move everything. Kind of like a motorhome. I get a kick out of people who switch to a motorhome so they don't have to tow anything, then end up towing a car



Here on the East Coast slidin campers are not popular, they have no resale value, but take it out west and its worth a lot more I hear.

Since you have the truck, consider a 5er instead of the camper.

 

[Bob V]

I have been looking for HARD proof that it is illegal for a non commercial rig to exceed the GVW or GCWR. Any one found anything?

 

[GaryCarter]

I have personally called FDOT and inquired. *ANY* vehicle can go up to 25,999 non-commercial legally. Half-tons, whatever. They don't care.



Gary

 

[Matt S]

I've also heard that DOT guys don't go by the door rating but what the vehicle is registered for and what the tires say. However, I've never heard of an insurance company doing this if you get into an accident. It's one thing to be your own warranty station, another to be self-insured.

 

[Bob V]

I think that if the insurance Co take your money you are insured, Think about the people who drive drunk and get in an accident, insurance pays and they ARE braking the law. I think worse case, if you had an accident and where overloaded a lawer might go after you for being negligent. Most lawers are greedy enough that if you dont have $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$, they wont bother. I use common sence to load my truck not a sticker on the door. I know that its in its GCWR, but I wouldn't tow 20,000 + in the mountians W/O an exhaust brake.

 

[Matt S]

I think that if the insurance Co take your money you are insured, Think about the people who drive drunk and get in an accident, insurance pays and they ARE braking the law. I think worse case, if you had an accident and where overloaded a lawer might go after you for being negligent. Most lawers are greedy enough that if you dont have $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$, they wont bother. I use common sence to load my truck not a sticker on the door. I know that its in its GCWR, but I wouldn't tow 20,000 + in the mountians W/O an exhaust brake.

Insurance companies are in the business of making money. Not in paying claims of negligent people. If you injure someone in an accident where you were negligent, they will sue you for damages on things you own now and stuff you would have had in the future. Exhaust brake or not, you overload your truck and have an accident, you are self-insured.

 

[Grizzly]

I have both. The slidein camper is great when you want to tow a trailer (with dirt bikes ) or you are making a long trip and its only function is a place to sleep (we used to use ours to visit the inlaws in GA). But if you are going somewhere where you are staying for a couple days you can't beat the 5er. (or a tow behind camper for that matter)

Much more room to move around in. Plus once you unhook the 5er you are free to drive where ever you want. With the Slide in camper you either have to unload it (can't go in mine when its up on jacks) or crank up the jacks, load everything up and move everything. Kind of like a motorhome. I get a kick out of people who switch to a motorhome so they don't have to tow anything, then end up towing a car



Here on the East Coast slidin campers are not popular, they have no resale value, but take it out west and its worth a lot more I hear.

That's good food for thought and the most perfect solution, to have both. I have the facility to keep them both inclosed under one roof. We are planning a trip to Alaska this summer with the camper, which is the most ideal RV for the Alcan Highway. I'm thinking of a 24" 5th and I don't care if it has slide outs. I just want good quality and storage. It's hard to give up the camper for those weekend camping trips in Northern NM and Colorado.

 

[Bob V]

Insurance companies are in the business of making money. Not in paying claims of negligent people. If you injure someone in an accident where you were negligent, they will sue you for damages on things you own now and stuff you would have had in the future. Exhaust brake or not, you overload your truck and have an accident, you are self-insured.

If that where the case they would NEVER have to pay out for anything, someone is always negligent when there is an accident. I know a lot of people that are/where negligent, speeding, sleepy, drunk, whetever, and the insurance payed. That's what insurance is. I still feel that unless you are GROSSLY overloaded you will be fine.

 

[TWhiteside]

Maryland - 1/2 and 3/4 Ton Truck Owner's Weight Certification (form # VR-142A)

Maryland has the following form:

1/2 and 3/4 Ton Truck Owner's Weight Certification (form # VR-142A) is used when an owner of a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck requests to carry a gross vehicle weight of 10,000 pounds (instead of 7,000 lbs). 1/2 ton trucks must be modified to carry the increased weight and 3/4 ton trucks must have a shipping weight of the chassis and body of more than 1,500 pounds or rated by the manufacturer at a gross vehicle weight in excess of 7,000 pounds. This form can be brought to any full service MVA office.



Now this doesn't change the door sticker, but it does state that you CAN carry 10,000 lbs.



Go figure!!!