2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission $2600 for ball joints and tie rods? Help needed!

[IndyBoy]

The steering joint at the passenger end of my steering bar failed last night.

The tire/alignment shop says that my ball joints are bad too.



They are quoting me a worst case scinario of $2600. Saying that they might have to replace the hub bearings as well, as they need to be removed to replace the ball joints. (Saying sometimes they come out ok, sometimes they have to be destroyed. ) If both hub bearings remove without damage, then the price would drop 1200.



Does this sound right?

 

[landini2]

You best go to a few more places for a quote, there is no need to beat the hubs to pieces to remove them, you can press them out with the trucks steering wheel and a few sockets. I did my ball joints for 550 dollars including parts and labor. Replaced with greased joints. It only took about 15 minutes for each hub.

 

[dresslered]

IndyBoy,

I must have paid around that as well (have exact cost at home). The important thing is to replace all the components with Moog parts (ball joints, track bar, and tie rods). I even added the DSS. The Moog parts are much better built and have zerk fittings so that they can be greased at every oil change. I later had to do this on my wife's 1999 Durango as well.

 

[IndyBoy]

Thanks Guys for the quick responses.

I spoke to a mechanic friend and he said the same: "The only reason they need to beat on it and possible damage it is because they don't have the right puller".



So, I'm going to have the shop replace the minimum so it's drivable and then do the ball joints with my friend afterwards. I do have a DSS already. And I'll target the greasable joints.



I want to make sure i understand the terminology:

Is the 'Taskbar' only the bar that connects the driver side hub to the bar going from the steering arm to the passenger side hub? If so, then what is the bar going from the Steering arm to the passenger side hub called? Is it the 'Tie Rod'? (The one that failed for me). Is it common practice to replace the going from the steering arm to the passenger side with OEM spec, and then 'upgrade' the 'track bar'?





Derek

 

[bromano676]

the track bar connects the axel on the passenger side to the frame on the drivers side. it's purpose is to locate the axel so that when you hit bumps, you do not get bump steer.



the drag link is usually what goes between the steering box and the passenger side steering knuckle.

 

[Bloomy]

If you ended up replacing both bearings assemblies, ball joints and they don't know how to get the bearings out then, it could go that high. Like said earlier, the wrong type of puller will destroy them if not immediately then a couple of months down the road. Any puller should not be used as the primary means to remove them. A puller with some pressure, then pushing from the back side using power steering or air chisel is a better way to go, but unless they have done these a lot, they won't know that.

 

[telliott]

good choice doing the ball joints yourself. It can be a bit of a big job, but if you have some help from someone with experience, it will be worth your time. Plus you will learn a lot about your front end. Make sure you have a ball joint press on hand. You can rent one from many parts stores. Some dont charge you anything except a deposit (which you will get back when you return the press). If you end up replacing hub bearings, be prepared, they are pricey. Its not a bad idea to do it while you are in there anyway.

 

[Pavemen]

See this thread for front end parts identification

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...4-1998/208327-please-assess-my-front-end.html

$2600?? i am so glad I know how to do that work and have the willingness to try if I don't. i was quoted $900 for ball joints on my 2wd 3500. I bought the same parts myself for $175 and spent 3 hours doing the work all alone.

consider doing the tierods and such with the heavy duty inverted 't' setup (search here or my forum for the part #'s ). You can change those yourself and get your alignment close enough with a tape measure to get you to the alignment shop. Its a better setup, stronger, cheaper cost and no special tools in most cases.

 

[IndyBoy]

Thanks for all the help. I learned a lot here. the truck is drivable now for $300. so, when i'm done working on the new house i'll fix all this in the new shop (40'x60'x14' insulated!!!)

 

[Pavemen]

Only $300 for ball joints and steering parts? That is not bad of a price. Did you replace all the steering joints or just the one that failed?

If only the one part, I would highly suggest you replace all the other steering component ends (tierod and drag link). if one actually failed, then the others are likely highly worn/stressed

 

[SOLER]

Do it yourself, save some money (if you have the time)

I just did mine... well, sort of... I got uppers and lowers from RockAuto.com... about $240-ish for all four Moog joints. Maybe a little less. The hub/bearing comes off, but don't pound on the spindle... learned that the hard way, plus the hub wouldnt come off... use an air hammer/chisel.



Don't mean to hijack, but hopefully others can benefit if we can slove this problem I have.



I got the left side done, once I figured out the air hammer/chisel. Got the right side all torn apart, got the upper out, but the lower WOULD NOT come out. Pressing, pounding, trying to press/pound it back in, it won't budge. It got as far as the snap ring groove is out of site, and that's it. Any suggestions? I was going to drive this from FL to Texas tomorrow so I can go home for Thanksgiving, but not with it like it is... I had to put it back together to get it off the hoist (I was working in the Auto Hobby shop on base here), and the old joints are in but the knucle isn't tight, not to mention these joints are destroyed from all the pounding.



Any help is appreciated! Thanks!



SOLER

 

[DIESELWRKS]

The steering joint at the passenger end of my steering bar failed last night.

The tire/alignment shop says that my ball joints are bad too.



They are quoting me a worst case scinario of $2600. Saying that they might have to replace the hub bearings as well, as they need to be removed to replace the ball joints. (Saying sometimes they come out ok, sometimes they have to be destroyed. ) If both hub bearings remove without damage, then the price would drop 1200.



Does this sound right?

dont know if its to late for you but I just did this. CLICK ON LINK

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...mission-1998-5-2002/217938-good-deal-not.html

 

[bromano676]

soler



try taking a file and clean up the joint around the snap ring groove if you can. it sounds like there might be a bur on the joint that is getting stuck.

 

[SOLER]

Thanks, yeah, the problem is I can't push it back up. I might be grinding the crap out of it, got to be carefull not to mess up the knuckle though. It's going to be surgery

 

[Pavemen]

the knuckle is tapered and not parallel (the lower portion of the inner C that is). so be sure the press is squared up and much as possible so it pushes the ball joint in straight.