280hp BD torque plate

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I'm just about to install a 280hp torque plate from BD. I've "taken care" of my intake and exhaust restrictions to lower EGTs and have the appropriate gauges. I will be moving the plate back . 025" to get about 250-265hp instead of the full fueling. Why? Because I don't want to swap the turbo housing or deal with the AFC spring or lose my clutch or start smoking. This is my work truck and I don't want to go overboard. My gcw is 12-14klb and I would like to keep my driveline as dependable as it's been for four years. My question is this: What is the upper limit for hp/torque with a 12cm turbo housing, stock clutch and minimal "fiddling" other than the fuel stop? Has anyone used the 280hp fuel stop from BD? Please be specific, I am a long time subscriber to the TDR and just signed up with the website. Thanks. Atomizer


'97 3500 4x4 5-speed dually Dana 80/posi flatbed

 

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Atomizer, I have run the BD 280 plate for a few years before moving up in horse power . You should not worry about your clutch, or egts. If you have no restrictions in your exhaust or intake as you stated, the 280 plate should be fine in the stock position. I recently installed the same plate in a 98 dually, 5 spd, 4X4, 3:54 and no muffler in the stock position. The owner reported no egt problems pulling his travel trailer and was very happy with the added power. I personally prefer the 280 plate for towing, because of the ability to control egts.

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97 SLT 2500, 5sp, 3:54, 285/16, US Gear Under-drive, BD Hx40-16cm, BD 370 injectors, TST #10 plate, BD full 4" exhaust, Centerforce Clutch, and a few other items!

 

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I am running the same torque plate I do believe although mine came from TST. I have pushed mine all the way forward and there is no problems with EGT towing a trailer that weighs 6800 lbs. On my last trip I did kick the cruise off on one long hill and dropped the MPH from 77 to 70 in 5th to keep the EGT under 1200 just at the top. It probibly would have crested the hill under 1300 had I just left it. On this trip I also did some preety intense offroad 4 wheeling the first I had ever done. I couldn't believe how weel the truck did.
As far as smoke I can adjust the AFC so that there isn't any smoke except at hi RPMs (2650+) and full throttle. The after market clutch I'm running was replace when the throwout bearing started squealing, it's been in for almost 2 years and doesn't have any signs of slipage. From what I'm told it isn't much better than stock.

You'll be fine in the stock position and if later your not after installing the plate the first time it will be a breeze to change positions.

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EAT'M UP
97 2500 Club 4X4 3. 54, Forrest Green/Driftwood, LSD 5 speed, & Psychotty Air System, TST #11 all the way forward, AFC spring kit, Geno's Exhaust Blanket, TST EGT gauge & 0-60 boost gauge in A Pillar, Cat-be-gone, 4" Dynomax Bullet muffler, Crome 4" turn down, AmsOil Through out, Geno's trans filter kit, AmsOil Bypass system, Lund Winter front, Leer Cab Level Shell Driftwood , 255/85R16 Big O ATs, Dyno'd 342 HP *NRA/USPSA member and proud of it*

 

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atomizer:

I have the TST 280 plate in my 96'.
You can look at my signature to see
how my truck is set up. I also
regularly tow heavy trailers behind
my truck and have had no problems
with this plate. I recently "beefed
up" the transmission to avoid any
problems.

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Red '96 4x4 2500 Auto 3. 54, TST #5, Pump Mods, Banks Exhaust, Prime Loc, Cummins Chrome Kit, Pro-Torque Converter, BD Valve Body, Sendel 16" Alum Wheels w/ 33" BFGs

 

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Thanks guys for replying to my post. After reading your responses I decided to go for it this evening and install the #11 BD 280hp plate. Very easy except for the "warranty screw". The #20 torx head thing twisted right away so I slotted it with a hacksaw blade and pounded it out with proper impact. By the way, anyone trying this might want to uncouple the 5-6 hard fuel lines and gently move them aside for much easier access to the "warranty screw". The rest of the operation was easy. The BD directions are simple enough even though their spelling is abominable. Common sense also adds that you might want to scribe the afc housing location BEFORE you pull it off the pump and use more than one screw for the guide template before you remove the stock fuel plate. Both of those items have slotted screw holes and will alter your adjustments significantly if they are not secured. First test drive with 9000lb. truck is great. Boost hit 30+ and acceleration is impressive. The power rolls on much more quickly so throttle control will be the saving grace of my stock driveline. Smoke is not a problem (specially at night) and egts are quite acceptable. I can't wait to run it through the ringer and really stretch it's legs towing the heavy trailers. Once again, thanks for the help my friends!

 

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So have you "run it through the ringer and really stretched it's legs towing the heavy trailers". Lets hear an update on how things are working out and when you will be upgrading injectors! #ad


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97 SLT 2500, 5sp, 3:54, 285/16, US Gear Under-drive, BD Hx40-16cm, BD 370 injectors, TST #10 plate, BD full 4" exhaust, Centerforce Clutch, BD Governor Kit, and a few other items with a lot more on the shelve!

 

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Have indeed wrung it through the wringer for four days now. Real world impressions go like this.
1. With my 4500lb concrete pump trailer and 9000+lb flatbed I pull everything a gear taller. No, I am not lugging my engine. Before the modification I was always having to rev to 2900rpm before shifting to get in the meat of the next gear (3. 54 by the way). Now I shift earlier and often stay at lower rpms. I honestly believe that my fuel consumption will not be affected due to the drastic difference in rpm range, we'll see.
2. My powerband has moved down 500-650rpm while still lasting up to 2900rpm. Before, I wouldn't get any "real" power until 1850rpm! I now have much more useable throttle.
3. My EGTs are only 100 degrees hotter under maximum boost, still very acceptable.
4. Smoke is not visible at all. Believe me, I've tried to get it to smoke, it won't.
5. Boost starts earlier and rises more quickly. Once I'm in the 10-15lb range, and in a taller gear, acceleration is VERY STRONG. And this is with a lot of weight and ten tires on the ground.
6. My only concerns are with my driveline, specifically the 5th gear retaining nut. I spend a lot of time on the freeway and use fifth gear all the time. I guess I'll just see what happens. My stock clutch has 90k on it but it still feels great. This might be a good test for the stock driveline. I've also noticed more gear noise in the lower rpms of the higher gears but that's to be expected.
7. I wish I had done this right after I bought the truck in '97. Do it!

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'97 3500 4x4 5-speed 3. 54 dually posi flatbed,280hp/680fp blah,blah,blah

 

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atomizer:

Sounds like the installation of the
280 H. P. torque plate went well and
the truck is running good for you!

Like "DBR" asked, when are you
planning on putting in the new
injectors?

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John_P.

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Red '96 4x4 2500 Auto 3. 54, TST #5, Pump Mods, Banks Exhaust, Prime Loc, Cummins Chrome Kit, Pro-Torque Converter, BD Valve Body, Sendel 16" Alum Wheels w/ 33" BFGs

 

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Glad to hear things turned out good. I was thinking about a similar mod. I don't want to go the turbo route quite yet. I am very interested in propane too.
I havent had my 5th gear nut fall off yet, but I hear you should not let the engine lug. People tell me that if you're under 1600-1700 in 5th, you should grab a gear. HTH

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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock. 55,000 Mi as of 8/21/00.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.