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2nd call for AT trans cooler line question

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Help!!!!

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The transmission cooler lines are still troubling me. I need to figure this out so I can take out the transmission.



The lines to the heat exchanger that cross UNDER the transmission... will they be in the way when I go to remove the transmission?



They are in the way for using the barring tool or getting at the torque converter bolts from under the cover plate.



What have others done when doing transmission work on these?



The cooler lines on the bottom of the heat exchanger look VERY difficult to get to. I used a wrench and a pry bar against the block to get them to budget and dread continuing or putting them back!!



Thanks,
 
That particular line is tough to get at. It's only made partially better if you have a hoist.

You should have some plastic caps or rubber plugs to put in the line ends or the outlet from the heat exchanger to prevent siphoning of trans fluid.

Normally you need to take only the front line off... as I recall you can usually leave the back one connected.



I hope that is some help bud... :D:D



pb...
 
What tools do you use for this?? Would a crowfoot work - I don't have any because I haven't yet needed one.



Is this heat exchanger REALLY necessary? What happens if I remove it, can I replace it with something more friendly?
 
If I recall right the wrench I used was a hand-me-down from my dad's days'... ...

I think your looking at 15/16ths or thereabouts... .

The exchanger uses rad coolant to provide some primary cooling of trans oil.

Since the cooling system usually runs at around 180*F-185*F AND the ATF temp under normal operation is nearly identical, the exchanger really is only effective when the trans is working hard and it's temp is above those value's.

You can pull it out and re-plumb the line to front cooler.

A good option is the auxillary cooler that was used in the 1st gen trucks. It was a "HD towing cooler" that had a thermostat fan attached.

It mounted to the under side of the box, between the frame rail and the outer fender skirt... I think, or inside the frame rail... I can't recall at this moment.

You are lucky because I had one of the guys send me some info on this very thing... .



Here is the item .....



>> SUPER DUTY TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER

CUMMINS DIESEL - 3. 54 AXLE

PART NUMBERS 82400846 & 82400994



This is followed by a fairly detail parts list of individual items.



Try contacting Cummins and see if they can help you using those numbers... if not, I'll transpose the info into a text document and send it or post it in it's entirety for you.

This is a very good add on cooler. Our transmission's run hotter than any of the later models and this cooler will help keep those higher temps in check, especially since we're working them alot harder now with the power mods we're doing.



pastor bob... .
 
PB,



Do you really lift the motor, do you work from the top or from below? My arms are not that long, I'm 5'9" so that may be part of my issue!



Thanks,
 
On my 93 I was able to just take the lines off the trans and move them to the side a little didn't disconnect them from anything but the trans. I only moved my trans back 5" but that was past the lines where they cross under the front of the transmission.

I didn't have to remove anything from the heat exchanger.

It was a little tight to get into the bolts for the torque converter, a socket a flex and a bunch of extensions seemed to work ok.



Good Luck,

Caleb
 
When I worked on that line, I did the initial "threading on" from below... then up top, over the passenger fender with the wrench...

It really did suck getting at it, no question.



pb... .
 
When I put a wrench on the cooler line the entire fitting AND line turned together. So, I used my cutoff wheel and cut the lines out of the way. I'll make it work, and it will work better for me than when it left the factory. :) I'll consider plumbing in some fittings so I can change all the transmission fluid at once without removing lines from the transmission & that might make it easier to check the pressure with guages if needed.
 
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