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2nd Gen Rust Issues

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I am all about preventive maintenance and living in Az all these years rust was not one of them. Now that we are retired traveling around the country it is more of a concern. The truck is pretty much in prestine condition at this point and I would like to keep it that way. So far I have used Eastwood's internal frame coating in the rocker panels and the lower door panels for all 4 doors along with the lower inside of the tail gate. The latest I know of is the Drivers side front frame between the steering box and front bumper that I will check and hopefully coat as needed. I do not have fender flares as the body is stock with no mods. I am interested from present/previous owners if they can point out the rust prone areas of the 2nd gen trucks. While traveling in rust prone areas I try to keep an eye on other 2nd gens to pick out the rust areas. Some of those appear to be doing well and others have so much rust it is almost impossible to tell where it may have started. I would appreciate all input and preventative measures taken to combat the rust cancer.Dave
 
Sounds like you are on top of it, I think the next step would be to Fluid Film the entire underside if you going to be in the slop and goo more....

It makes things a little slimy under there but works really well....
 
Sounds like you are on top of it, I think the next step would be to Fluid Film the entire underside if you going to be in the slop and goo more....

It makes things a little slimy under there but works really well....

X2 The next step would be to use Fluid Film. It works!
 
Im a firm believer in Krown...little more pricey because it can only be applied by a licensed dealer but after 4-5 months of humid slop filled winter there's still traces of it all underneath the truck. They really get involved, going as far as pulling tail lights and spraying down the entire back side of the quarters (where most rust starts), squirting up into frame holes, down behind front fenders, pinch Joints, etc. By the time I buy a gallon of fluid film (which I've done) and factor in the time it would take me to do the same job it's worth the extra $80 or so....just my opinion of course.

Either way there is no better prevention than undercoating... Once it starts there's just no stopping it.
 
Where the fuel tank is up against the frame is another bad spot back by the rear axle
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This is what happened to my 95 and I am fixing right now. I also had rot in the front where the frame dips down before it goes over the axle. My truck is originally from NY

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Either way there is no better prevention than undercoating... Once it starts there's just no stopping it.

Agree 100%. I'm a Ziebart user myself, but any of the major rust proofing companies are your best bet.

Here is the frame on my 11 year old 2007 that has spent every winter in the PA salt and that sits outside every day in my dirt/gravel driveway. It went to Ziebart the first day I owned it and has been back annually for an inspection and respray.

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Seems like you’ve got a good plan in place already and all good suggestions and methods mentioned above. My $0.02/suggestions
1-Inside all doors - mostly the bottom 18-20”, apply rubberized undercoating and don’t forget to insert straws wherever there are drains before application.
2-Front fenders - thin area at the rear bottom where door meets fender, from the body line down, hard to get at for sure, but you can use a little tube like the ones that come with brake cleaner etc. to get undercoating in this area. Might want to tape off external painted areas to protect from spray that always seems to find its way out.
3-Wheel Arches on the bed - remove the plastic inner liners (if equipped) and remove the fuel tank filler neck and shroud. Apply undercoating all around the arches and where the bedsides meet the wheel houses = front, back and top.
4-Cab supports - even if you have mud flaps it seems the supports from the back of the front door (assuming QC) get hit with all kinds of road debris = check for rust if present take care of and u-coat.
5-Rear Spring Hangers - these are notorious for rusting out between the top and bottom bushings. Mine had holes about the size of a quarter. Got new ones and undercoated prior to installation. If yours are good, that’s great, u-coat them.
6-Rear Bumper - mine rusted out from the back. Got new one, scuff pad the backside, clean with brake clean or a pre-paint chemical, tape off bolt holes and undercoated before installation. If yours is good just scuff off the debris, clean, tape off the edges and u-coat.

Hope this helps.
 
Where the fuel tank is up against the frame is another bad spot back by the rear axleView attachment 101521 This is what happened to my 95 and I am fixing right now. I also had rot in the front where the frame dips down before it goes over the axle. My truck is originally from NY



Now that's just nasty. I will look at mine. I hopefully will not spend much time in that environment but then I did not plan to be in Minot ND till December. That did not work out so well as the Daughter delivered the Grand Son early November.

Dave
 
Agree 100%. I'm a Ziebart user myself, but any of the major rust proofing companies are your best bet.

Here is the frame on my 11 year old 2007 that has spent every winter in the PA salt and that sits outside every day in my dirt/gravel driveway. It went to Ziebart the first day I owned it and has been back annually for an inspection and respray.

View attachment 101522

View attachment 101523



Looks great as always especially considering the environment.

Dave
 
Thanks Joe, hadn't really thought about the spring hangers. Every place there is a spot weld worries me tho. I did inspect the rear bumper which is in perfect shape right now. Have they improved the rubberized coating ?. Back in the days I lived there (40ish years now) it seemed like the under coating would crack and allow the contaminates a place to hide while they rusted out the metal.

Dave
 
As far as improving u-coat, not sure? I’d have to guess and say as most things are improved as time goes on, it depends on the brand (I use Eastwood products, not sure who the manufacturer is, but they have good products) and the key is preparation and condition of what the product is being applied to. If your bumper is pristine on the backside I’d clean it up real good, hit it with a scuff pad, protect the areas you don’t want coated with tape and apply as per instructions.
 
Anyone tried this ?. Looks interesting for $12.00 a can (15oz.). I remember when my truck was brand new it had a waxy type product on the frame.

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Dave

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To complement Joe MC, I would have a look at the inner front fenders under the batteries, the rear cab corners (there you have some foam in plastic bags for insulation that can collect humidity and prevents you to apply a cavity spray...) and all the cab supports and reinforcements (they collect all sort of debris and the drain holes can be clogged with rocks)
You have big rubber grommets on the inside face of the rocker panels (under truck) that can help you having access without the need to drill the rocker. You'll find insulation foam again. Mine has rusted badly exactly where the foam was, since it prevents the metal protector you choose to be applied everywhere.
 
Used new 3M cavity wax today on my Excursion hood one can did it. I think I like their older product better. Can was bigger seemed to set tiny bit firmer. I'll see how this sets. Cost more less coverage. Used the 360° nozzle which worked well.
 
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