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3.73 or 4.10

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I currently have a 96 unmodified ram with 4. 10 rearend with 4 speed automatic. I use this truck to haul my 4100lb slide in camper and tow a 6000 lb boat with a tongue weight of approx 350 lbs. I am looking at purchasing a new ram but not sure which rearend I should get since they now have a six speed automatic. I know that with Chevy and the Allison transmission you can not get the 4. 10 you can only get the 3. 73. I am looking for suggestion and the reasoning behind your suggestion. Thanks



Lanny
 
I don't believe you haul and tow enough weight to warrant a 4. 10 and you're not in the Rocky Mountains. A 3. 73 will work fine and give you better economy.



I have the 3. 73, tow a 10K lb 5er with my 6 speed standard and travel the Rockies.
 
I agree with Grizzly. I would not get above the 3. 73 gears. I think they are probably the best compromise between economy and towing power. The new Ram's have plenty of power for 3. 73, and probably for even the 3. 42 with your weights.
 
I would say if you Tow go for the 410's I can run empty at 2100 rpm's at 80 mph

and if I am pulling I think the 410's help more with the low end grunt . I have a 08 and love the 410's with the 6 sp auto
 
I have 07. 5 w 4. 10 and it get terrible gas milage pulling 7k at 60-65 mph. Had a 98. 5 2500 w truck camper and towing a bike got much better but that was 10 years ago.





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07. 5 3500 4x4 quad 6sp auto 4. 10 (like the pwr)
 
There is no proven statistics that the 3. 73 gets any better mileage than the 4. 10. With the 6 speed auto you don't over turn the 6. 7L. You also get more pulling when you need it. And then the oponents chime in and say they just downshift. Hockey. :-laf You need to keep these motors revved up anyway.
 
Thanks for the info, I guess one of my main concerns was when I got the 96 they were having problems with the transmission going when using the 3. 54 (I think) and towing heavy weights but the 4. 10 held up. Wouldn't the 3. 73 make it work hard and maybe help prevent some of the DPF problems?
 
I have 07. 5 w 4. 10 and it get terrible gas milage pulling 7k at 60-65 mph. Had a 98. 5 2500 w truck camper and towing a bike got much better but that was 10 years ago.


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07. 5 3500 4x4 quad 6sp auto 4. 10 (like the pwr)

My wife's Honda CR/V gets better fuel mileage than my '08 Ram with 4. 10 differential also.

And my comparison is about as useful as the one above.
 
I have the 4. 10 gears and say get the 3. 73's. with as little weight as i tow there just not worth haveing. the absloute best mpg i ever have gotten was 17. 5 hand calculated and that was driving 68 mph with a 5. 0 mustang motor in the back. That is also with the dpf delete other wise its 15 highway 13 around town and at time it was just 13 no matter what. my truck at 2000 rpm is doing 72 mph
 
I currently have a 96 unmodified ram with 4. 10 rearend with 4 speed automatic. I use this truck to haul my 4100lb slide in camper and tow a 6000 lb boat with a tongue weight of approx 350 lbs. I am looking at purchasing a new ram but not sure which rearend I should get since they now have a six speed automatic. I know that with Chevy and the Allison transmission you can not get the 4. 10 you can only get the 3. 73. I am looking for suggestion and the reasoning behind your suggestion. Thanks



Lanny



One has to consider the total weight that is being hauled and towed. Combining the Lance camper's weight, and it's a very large one, which puts the truck at or above the trucks GVWR and adding the weight of the boat, it makes a total GCWR of around 18,000 lbs.



Also remember the 68RFE is a double overdrive transmission when in 6th gear so the old 4-speed automatic transmission calculations don't apply. I would seriously consider the 4. 10 ratio considering the combined weight and the wind resistance.



Bill
 
I would say get the 3. 73. Pulling 16K 39' fifth wheel across Illinois and Missouri averaging 65 - 70 mph, in Illinois I ran in 6th and it seldom down shifted, I got 10. 8 mpg. In Missouri I kept it in 5th, it wanted to down shift more than I liked, my mileage dropped to 9. 6 running the same speed. But it never down shifted all the way from St. Louis to just west of Springfield where turned off to go south.
 
Thanks everyone for your input. I ended up with one off of a lot that had 4. 10's now it is time to start fitting it up for camper and boat.



Lanny
 
Thanks everyone for your input. I ended up with one off of a lot that had 4. 10's now it is time to start fitting it up for camper and boat.

Lanny

Congratulations on your purchase. Whether by choice or simply due to availability of a truck you wanted you ended up with the best gearing combination for towing and cruising.

You'll have great heavy load starting torque, great hill climbing ability with less frequent downshifts, and high speed crusing with low rpm thanks to the six speed automatic with double overdrive.

Thanks for contributing to the survival of Chrysler/Dodge and your dealer and doing your part for our soft economy.
 
What gear oil are you guys using?

The dealer says to use 75w140 synthetic oil with differential Additive, even though the manufacturer says to use 75w90 synthetic oil differential Additive. They say that is what they put in all the trucks they service with in the shop. They didn’t even know that the books say to use 75w90 oil for the 2007-2008 trucks. I have a 2008, 2500 with a 6. 7 diesel with 3. 73 gear with an 11. 5 axle. So what oil is everybody else using? I’m leaning towards the manufacturer’s recommendation of the 75w90.
 
It's always wise to follow the manufacturer's recommendation.

However, having dutifully said that, I used 75/140 or a mixture of 75/90 and 75/140 in my '06 Ram with the same differential for 230k miles. I reasoned that the truck was normally towing heavy and heavier fluid was probably a good thing, not a bad thing.

If you live in a cold climate and don't routinely tow heavy I'd follow the manufacturer's suggestion.
 
75w90 is what AAM calls for. The thicker fliuds I have read can retain more heat. The dealer that told you 75w140 and additive is being lazy and soaking late model diesel owners for the additive. It dosen't harm the AAM axels but also does nothing for it. That is what the OTHER trucks use with the Chrysler built axels.
 
I would say get the 3. 73. Pulling 16K 39' fifth wheel across Illinois and Missouri averaging 65 - 70 mph, in Illinois I ran in 6th and it seldom down shifted, I got 10. 8 mpg. In Missouri I kept it in 5th, it wanted to down shift more than I liked, my mileage dropped to 9. 6 running the same speed. But it never down shifted all the way from St. Louis to just west of Springfield where turned off to go south.

IL/MO are NO comparison to PA and some of the other eastern states. The Midwest is flat compared to out east, let alone the Rockies. I've been in PA/WV/VA a LOT the past few years with the big truck, and there are plenty of 8-13% grades out there. You won't find many places you'll be driving 70mph with a trailer for long stretches. Either because of grade, or curves.
 
I have said it before so here it is again. There is a REASON 4. 10s are a OPTION. Yea you can downshift and all that stuff but you also have to get the load moving. Any kind of serious weight you need 4. 10s. It will tow easier and the truck dosen't strain as much(things will last longer)with the 6 speed auto and double OD the 4. 10s are not like it was with the manual trans or the old 4 speed auto. If over 12k or so I'd say 4. 10s for sure. There is a REASON its a OPTION.
 
I will say 3. 73 is a good way to go. I run all over the country with the 3. 73 my total weight is 22. 900 you can see below. ----GOOD LUCK
 
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