3 gauge install write up...

[NavyDood]

Here is a write up I did when I installed my Isspro EV gauges, with pics. I got everything from kensperformancesolutions. Hopefully this will help anybody in the future installing their own gauges.



I had a heck of a time deciding what mounting method I was going to go with. I use the cubby under the climate controls way too much. Overhead would have been ok; I just didn't want to have to glance up all the time. There wasn't anyway I was going to lose the grab handle with a 3 gauge pillar mount. The single or the dbl steering mount was way out of the question. It covers up too much of the dash for me. I finally opted for the dash mount. The dash mount comes in black and that wasn't going to fly. I went to the local Dodge dealer and got the Mopar interior only paint. The A-pillar's actual color is Light Taupe and the darker dash top is Taupe. The Dodge part# of the Taupe is 5003521-AA. After lightly sandblasting the Dash Pod, I sprayed 8 coats of paint (which go on like water and dry almost instantly) then 3 coats of Acrylic Clear. To get the top dash panel off, slide a 1" wide putty knife under the lip and pry up all the way across. The metal clips will release. After all the clips are popped, lift up slightly and pull back so the forward clips release. Lay out where the dash pod will attach and then drill for mounting. AutoMeter makes the dash pod. One thing disturbing... The aluminum-mounting bracket for the pod has 4 threaded inserts on it for mounting purposes. Two screws mount the bracket to the dash. The other two screws attach the pod to the bracket. The inserts are 8-32 thread size. They sent regular sheet metal screws for mounting it. I was like, "Huh?” I ran to the local Ace Hardware and got two stainless 8-32 button head screws for the outside, and regular steel for the underside. I used connectors on the +pos and -neg wires for the gauge lights so it would be easier to work on if the need arises. First pic lightly sand blasted. Second pic everything wired and ready to be mounted. Third pic wires coming through the top of the dash. I used a 3/4" spade drill to drill the hole. It made for a very easy wire run. Fourth and fifth pic mounted. Fifth pic night shot.



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Next came the +pos wiring for the gauges. You want them on only when the dash lights are on, and dim when the dash lights dim. The headlight light switch pops right off with ease. You need to splice into the orange with black tracer. Problem is, there are 3 of those wires. Here you can see the wire you need to splice into.



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The control boxes (Pyro and transmission Temp) require +12v. Find a +pos power source that comes on when the key is turned on unless you want the gauge control boxes always powered. The cig lighter is perfect for this since the key needs to be on for it to be powered (The auxiliary +12v power connector always has power even with the key off). When using the cig lighter for the power source, splice into the pink wire. Remove the climate control/radio panel by removing the screw behind the plastic hook just to the right of the climate controls, then pull gently. The whole front panel pops right off. First pic is the splice and the second pic where I mounted the two control boxes. I used an inline fuse for the control boxes with a 2a fuse. The metal brace right below the fuse link is perfect for a common ground.



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[NavyDood]

I opted to go with the boost bolt instead of drilling and tapping the air inlet. It's a straight and forward install. I used blue locktite on the boost bolt to hold the bolt in and give it a good seal.



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Here is a pic of the Thermocouple installed. There is no right or wrong way to drill and tap the thermocouple hole. Some like to start the engine so the chips blow outward and some like to use grease on the drill bit and tap to hold the shavings. IMO don't waste your time. Drill and tap it. Then use a pen magnet to get all the filings out of the exhaust manifold. Install the thermocouple and start the truck. Any minuscule shavings that are left will blow right through the turbo causing no damage. There are many many many trucks out there that did it this way and I have yet to hear of a turbo failure doing it this way. I have 50,000 miles on the truck since the install and all is well.



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transmission temp probe. I put this line together for $42 total. Mass diesel sells the exact same thing for $80 plus shipping or so. Here's the breakdown for the line. This is the only true way on the 48RE to get accurate real time temp numbers. The transmission pan isn't accurate since it shows the temp of the fluid after it has gone through both coolers. None of the test ports will give you a true reading either.



Line part# 52028920-AH. $12 from Dodge.

Line cut and flared with b-nuts for -8AN. $8 from local hose shop.

Earl's Performance pressure gauge adapter -8AN both ends with 1/8" npt port. Summit part# EAR-100196ERL. Aeroquip and Russell also make them. $14 from summit racing which included handling/shipping charges that were divided between the 3 things I ordered.



Tax, fuel, my time - $8.

90° and 1/8" npt double-ended connector. $4 from Home Depot. (Needed even if Mass Diesel line was used. )



What irks the crap out of me is why Isspro uses such a huge probe tip. There are other manufacturers that have smaller tips. I opted to run the brass 90° to keep the tip out of the transmission fluid path even though that would be ideal. Reason I did not put the probe tip IN the path is because you obstruct at least 75% of the fluid flow. I threw in the pic of the transmission pan since I was changing the transmission fluid at the same time of installing the transmission temp probe/line. That is what it looked like with 36,000 miles on it. I don't think the previous owner changed it.



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Since I have an automatic, running the wires and boost tube was a piece of cake. There is a plastic cover where the clutch slave cylinder rod would go through if you have a standard transmission. I drilled a hole through the plate. Remember to protect all the wires and boost tube from chaffing on anything. It took me about 8 hours total to do all this.



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[rbattelle]

Nice job. I wonder what readings you'll get on that transmission temp sender...



-Ryan

 

[NavyDood]

I really need to tow something. The highest I have seen it non towing is 180 and that was in stop and go traffic in this god forsaken crappy TX summer we have been having.

 

[Big P]

Thanks NavyDood, great post!

 

[JTreas]

thanks for the info, now i think i could put the gauges and power them myself. i still can't find a damn thing with the search button.

 

[nickleinonen]

thanks for the info, now i think i could put the gauges and power them myself. i still can't find a damn thing with the search button.

scroll to the top of the page, and you will see 6 drop down menus [tdr home, discussion forums, tdr magazine... ] in the discussion forums drop down menu, the 5th one down is search forums

 

[Bertram65]

Nice writeup, I would think twice about using loctite on the boost bolt though, the bolt being hollow is not very strong and if you ever want to remove it it may shear off. I have had mine in with anti-seize for well over a year and it has not loosened up at all, I check it every so often.

Trans temps sound about right, the fittings probably works as a pretty good thermocoupler so being in the stream may not be critical.

 

[NavyDood]

Fluid still gets to the probe for the transmission temp. It's just not in the direct path. I'm working on that solution though. I used blue loc-tite, so there shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Matt400]

Good job on the write up, thanks for taking time to share what you did and provide pics too.

 

[1Tufdsl]

Nice write up and good install NavyDood! One thing I noticed is your engine is a hell of a lot cleaner than mine and I have about 15k less miles... what's up with that!!



Karl

 

[Tee]

NavyDood,

Whos dash pod is that? I havn't seen one like it.....

Maybe its just that you painted it?

T

 

[NavyDood]

It's the Autometer Pod. They come in black. Black wasn't going to cut it on my dash top.



As for my clean engine... Dunno. Part of being in TX I guess.

 

[rbattelle]

I have had mine in with anti-seize for well over a year

Uh-oh. I installed mine bone dry. It didn't occur to me to use some anti-seize. Hope it's not welded in place now. Guess I better not even attempt to remove it to check.



-Ryan

 

[99Supercab]

Very nice write up. Thanks for including part #`s for the transmission temp probe, I`ve been trying to piece something together for my install.

 

[jwduke]

Excellent write-up NavyDood! Thanks!!!

 

[mfrost]

A lot of work. When I retire and start towing heavy ( if I can afford the fuel)then I will tackle the job. Great write up!!

 

[BHanna]

Great post. This is going to help with putting in my christmas presents. Thanks NavyDood.

 

[DJennings]

Thank you for the excellent write up. I had done the pyro probe mounted the guages, and run all the wiring under the hood. I came inside and did a search to find the best place to tap the power wires and here it was!



Just a little FYI for those of you with 06's. All the same power connections still apply. You can access the orange wire with the brown tracer through the side dash panel pretty easy. I did a quick test with my voltmeter, t-tapped it, then found the pink wire, tapped that and I was done.



I'm just waiting for my turbo boost bolt and the job will be complete.



Thanks again!!!

 

[Burner]

Can you not use a fuse? I mean, use one of those conections that use an exsisting fuse? I would like to add my SPA Boost/EGT guage to the truck but I don't want to chop any wires.