3 gauge install write up...

[Turbo1Ton]

I opened Issue 52 today and was thumbing through it real quick and I passed a picture that looked familiar. I was overwhelmed to see that TDR publishers put my gauge install thread in Issue 52 and Geno's making great comments towards the install.



Thanks all.

Man, some people go all their lives trying to get published. You write a few instructions for your fellow CTD owners, snap a few shots, and BAM!



That's great. I'm glad to see that they put it out there for those that don't peruse the forums all that much.



It was a very good write-up. I've even got all of the photos saved so I can look back when I finally decide that I need to get my gauges. Thanks again.



Jeff

 

[Baker]

I put my guages in today. The toughest part was getting the wires up through the dash to the guages.



Thanks for a great post.



Kevin

 

[AFurrh]

Thanks NavyDood!

I used your post for guidance and all went well. Good job, and thanks for the write-up. The set-up looks good and worked perfect, no glitches.

 

[CStraface]

Could you just tap a hole in the bottom of the pan for the transmission temp?

 

[KParsons]

nice job

thanks for the write up, i will do this after i get the pac brake. kp

 

[rbattelle]

Could you just tap a hole in the bottom of the pan for the transmission temp?

Depends. How thick is the pan?



Ryan

 

[BGlidewell]

Nice writeup, I would think twice about using loctite on the boost bolt though, the bolt being hollow is not very strong and if you ever want to remove it it may shear off. I have had mine in with anti-seize for well over a year and it has not loosened up at all, I check it every so often.
Trans temps sound about right, the fittings probably works as a pretty good thermocoupler so being in the stream may not be critical.

This reminds me of a trick you can try if you need to remove the thread-lock before trying to back the bolt off. You can heat the bolt up and remove the adhesive properties of the thread-lock.

Q: How can I remove a fastener that is "permanently" locked in?

A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't be removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325F and above is needed to break down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature Anaerobics. A heat gun or propane torch is commonly used to do this process, and careful disassembly should occur while parts are still hot. Once apart, and cooled, use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040) to remove cured excess material. Always wipe down the fasteners with clean up solvent to remove the wax film that Chisel leaves on the surface.

http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm?&pageid=214&layout=2]

 

[BGlidewell]

Thanks for posting this Navydood, it was a significant help to me this weekend!

 

[Diesel Manor]

Grate job on the instructions.



Another option instead of fabing up your own line it to buy the one we sell here:

http://www.dieselmanor.com/dm_products/DM-CLG3.asp

You'll probably save a little doing it yourself, but it's a hastle trying to source all of the components and going to a hose shop. We developed our cooler line to allow for full flow of ATF to the cooler while still completely encompassing the tip of the sender. Ifyou have any questions let us know.

 

[Matt400]

Another option instead of fabing up your own line it to buy the one we sell here:

http://www.dieselmanor.com/dm_products/DM-CLG3.asp

We developed our cooler line to allow for full flow of ATF to the cooler while still completely encompassing the tip of the sender. Ifyou have any questions let us know.

Does this line work with the deep sensor tip the Isspro has? I had a line made up already and thought these didn't work well with the Isspro sensor.

 

[Diesel Manor]

Absolutley it does. The picture of the line installed has an ISSPRO trans gauge sender mounted in it.

 

[Matt400]

Absolutley it does. The picture of the line installed has an ISSPRO trans gauge sender mounted in it.

Could you tell us a little more about that fitting used. .



I had a hose shop make me a line a long time ago just like that one and finally got around to installing it. Worked fine for a couple weeks then started leaking where the fitting mates to the line. I installed it using the specified finger tight and then 1/2 flat turn and just today turned it less than a 1/4 flat only to find it leaks worse.



Obviously the fitting is no good. I may be interested in your line but don't want to go through the same thing again.

 

[Semicrazy]

I followed this write up, thanks for all the hard work NavyDood!!!



I just had one comment, I decided to drill through the dash in a spot just left of where you did. Just left of the half circle shape divit for that screw that you drilled your hole in and I will able to put my head by the accel pedal and look straight up at my hole. I also was able to reach my hand up and feed all my tubes/wires through without using something to pull them through.



All in all though, excellent article!!!

 

[Diesel Manor]

Basically it goes up 1 size and then back down 1 size. It provides the necessary clearance for all senders.

 

[TDRadmin]

Link to Original Thread

This is a copy of another thread. To follow the original thread, click here:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...cussions/142109-3-gauge-install-write-up.html



Robin

TDR Admin

 

[NavyDood]

Sorry everyone. I renewed my subscription finally. I just updated the pic links so the pics show again. I haven't had to do a single thing to the guages or the install. Not even a light bulb change. I have approx 70,000 miles on the guages.

 

[GOTSOOT]

too bad you put the pyro thermocouple in the wrong place!!!