Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 3000 gov kit... I got 4 springs out, not 3!

[paulsmith]

I am in the process of installing the 3000 rpm gov kit in my 96. I start pulling out the springd with a magnet, and I get on big, one medium, one small, and one smaller and shorter still!



Nobody, and no instructions mention the 4th spring????



Do I put it back, or leave it out?



Paul Smith

www.turbovan.net

 

[SlyBones]

From what I recall... .



1. You do not remove the largest spring. This is the idle spring and should be left in there.



2. You remove all other springs and replace them with the ones in the kit.



3. Most later model 12v I believe had 3 springs total. And some earlier models have 4 springs total.



4. The 3K kit gives 2 new springs per side for a total of 3 springs including the idle spring.



5. The 4k kit gives 3 new springs per side for a total of 4 springs including the idle spring.

 

[paulsmith]

I understand that I reuse the spring larger than the two supplied in the kit, but I am lost about the small spring. It is smaller than the springs supplied in the kit. I mean it fits right around the stud, like 1/4 inch ID, and only 3/4 inch long.



It will easily fit back inside the smaller of the two springs supplied in the kit. Mine is a 96 12 valve. So I leave it out?

 

[gitchesum]

I let the smallest spring out. I had 4 when I started, 3 when I finished.



I guess parts left over is a good thing in this case.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

The only things that you should be re-using are:



Wavelock nut

Top seat

Biggest (idle) spring



Everything else comes in the governor spring kit.



Matt



P. S. Good to see you on the TDR Paul !! I still have my '89 Voyager with modified 2. 5L Turbo II.

 

[Rams-n-Hogs]

Sounds like you got a 4K kit instead of a 3K. If you use the smallest one supplied, that gives you the 4K. I tried mine with as a 4K, and also as a 3K. I pulled the smallest one out, and replaced it with the factory small one. And actually I don't even know if I was supposed to put that one back in, or not. Only noticed a few hundred RPM difference. But I don't wind mine up very often. Now I have it as a 4K, again. You'll like it, no matter how you do it.



Jim

 

[paulsmith]

No, you dont understand. the factory sping set is four springs. I started pulling my old springs out with a magnet, and when they stopped coming out of the engine, I had four springs, not three. All my instuctions say to pull out the THREE factory springs, replace two, and re use the factory largest one.



But what about the 4th factory spring I got out? The smallest one. Does it go back, or toss it?

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Toss it.

 

[paulsmith]

Well, I tossed the extra spring, and got the kit installed. Now it revs higher, but the idle is also higher (900 to 1000 rpm) but, I cant tell that is pulling any harder. I am not even sure if it is pulling as hard as it was before.



The throttle is more "touchy" now, but when I mash it at 60 mph in lock up, it dosent seem to pull like it did. Maybe my imgination, and I was just expecting more...



Paul

 

[SlyBones]

Someone else will need to help out here. But with the idle that high I suspect you need to turn the nuts one more or less click. Cant remember what direction to lower idle. -- If the idle was closer, then just adjust it to normal.



did you check the governor lever adjustment while you were there? A common cause of lack of power after the GSK install, is the lever height needs to be adjusted.



http://www.piersdiesel.com/LeverAdj.htm

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Piers's Gov arm adjustment is a must if with the shutoff arm up (run position) the arm doesn hit the bottom nose of the plate. If you idle raised the springs are too tight, you can either take a click out or adjust the idle down, taking a click out will make it a little less touchy!



Jim

 

[paulsmith]

So, By me installing the gov. springs, I could have changed the lever adjustment? I run a #8 plate.



I will have to drive it some more, but it seemed like I could hit 25 to 30 psi of boost at 60 mph when I punched it before.



Man, that lever looks hard to see to adjust.



Also, I have a complete new DTT transmission coming next week, and was told I might have to adjust the idle up some to compensate for the tighter converter...

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Bigger injectors or other fueling modifications will reduce the amount you have to raise your idle after the tight convertor.



If you want to see it become REALLY touchy..... crank your springs down as far as you can. :-laf Your idle will be really high... . but man is it ever responsive to throttle input.



Matt

 

[esommer2500]

Mr. Fulmer is correct, you need to loosen the springs one or two clicks. I started at 5 clicks and had the same problems as you. I am at two clicks now and everything is peachy.

 

[DBCooper]

Paul, the lever adjustment isn't that bad. A mirror, deep socket and short screw driver are all that's needed. I did mine and really liked the result.

 

[paulsmith]

Well... ... ..... I pulled a 4000# trailer today:





I am idling at 1000 rpm, and WAY down on power!!!!!



I mean, when it locks into OD at 50 mph in 4th, it falls on its face! My egts _used to_ climb to 1250* at this low rpm under full load, now I can not make the egts even reach 1000, and boost is down to 15 psi or so, and just climbs up with engine rpm.



I talked to peirs today, and they are sending me a #10 plate. They told me the #8 plate is not the best choice for the 3000 rpm with a auto.



Also, as a side note, they asked at what rpm my fuel began to drop off, but if I put my trans in "OD off" (third gear) the TRANSMISSION will just let go at over 2500 rpm when floored. I mean I saw 4000 rpm for a instant and it jerk like hell!



I will be installing a new DTT trans next week.





I think I will leave it alone until I get the trans installed anyway. That way I can "tune" it in its final drive line set up. I will installed the #10 plate, then loosen off on the springs, then adjust the rocker. My back is gonna love this!

 

[1dslram]

I ran the #8 plate with the 3,000 RPM kit and it wasn't the best but it pulled hard all the way to 3,300, after installing the #4 plate it was much more powerfull and pulled strong to 3,500 RPM. Be sure to recheck the setting on the nuts I believe you have missed the adjustment on them.

Bruce

 

[Strick-9]

This actually happens a lot when people install governor spring kits. Here's quick rundown of what happened.



The governor spring kits keep the flyweights from traveling outward at higher RPM. That's how it allows you to rev higher.



Well, if the flyweights don't move outward, the rocker can't move upward. They are linked together in the governor housing.



As the flyweights move outward, the rocker travels up the plate. Restricting one, restricts the other.



The smaller plates like the #12, #11 and #8 don't give a big increases at low RPM that's just how they're designed.



When the rocker is no longer allowed to travel UP the plate profile, it never gets to the heavy fueling region. It gets hung down lower on the plate profile where it doesn't give much fuel.



Make sense?



The #4 and #10 plates normally cure this problem because the heavy fueling regions on the plate are much lower in the profile. So even if your rocker is adjusted a little too low, it will still reach the heavy fueling region where you can make good power.



The easiest cure for the problem is the #4 or #10 plate. I'd try that before the gov. lever adjustment.



Hope that helps you understand it a bit more.



-Chris