Here I am

30K Maintenance time coming up Need to decide

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Jelling

Question on EZ change drain plug from Geno's

On what Lubricants/Fluids for the differentials, transfer case, transmission and cooling system. I think I might spring for the Mag High tech for the rear end this round if I can swing it. The O ring seal sounds nice. Any opinions or suggestions would be welcomed.
 
Lots of issues here....

Do you race or tow heavy? If not, any of the better "dino" oils would probably be fine. The other aplications would be better off with synthetic. I have no real preference on anti-freeze, but I would suggest the water 1/2 of the fill be distilled.
 
30 K service

I am going to need to do the same on my '01. I talked to the dealer here in Twin Falls, Idaho and they charge $599. 95 for the 30K service. Definately won't take it there and will do it myself. I didn't think about the 1/2 distilled water, Thank you for the information.
 
Synthetic lubes throughout the drivetrain. I use Mobil 1 products, and am very satisfied with the performance of them.



I would use an extended life antifreeze, like the Rotella ELC. Coolant changes are a pain in the butt, and if you have 30K on an 02 already you are going to get sick of doing it. If you don't buy a premixed coolant definately use distilled water.
 
service

LSMITH is right! The coolant is a messy (difficult for me) job. The rear end Oil, when changed at 30K looked black as cole. At the time of the oil change we had to pull the cover. Replaced it with Mag Hytech cover. We sanded the stamping with a light file and filled the numders with JB Weld. I waited one hour and installed the cover. Refilled with Hypiod gear oil. Know I just pull the dip stick to check the oil and it stiil looks like new after 20K miles. The magnet really does it's job and it has not leaked yet.
 
Thanks All

Steve C

26,000+ in 13 months.

No significant towing weight or frequency, a fare amount of highway (mostly) driving, occasionally with 800 –1200 lbs. In back.

Not a racer ;) However Gauges are back ordered from Geno’s. Exhaust will happen next. I will be buying a fueling box eventually. Most likely DDTT first and then injectors “after” I find the $$$ for the transmission mods. That’s the plan now anyway. I change the oil/filter every 3000-3500 mi. (Approx. every 7 weeks) with Rotella, fuel filter ever other oil change and lube. Synthetics are too expensive for me and my oil change intervals. I would like to use synthetics for the differentials, transfer case and transmission but feel with my mileage that $$ may be the case here also. I need to go compare prices and decide.



Shoveljunk... I think I’m sold on the Mag hytec thanks for the JB weld Idea sounds better than RVT. Hypiod gear oil? This is a brand? In the shop manual it says to clean housing cavity with flushing oil? what is flushing oil?



Lsmith... I think I will weenie out and have Rocky Mountain Cummins do a Flush coolant change. They did it on my 90 for me so I guess I’ll bite the bullet on that one.



On the AutoTransmission if I go to Mobil 1 for example. There a mixing of fluids for a few changes until its pure synthetic. Is there a way to do a complete fluid change or am I totally off base with this being an issue?



This is the first new truck I've had 20 years, I'm finding myself very concerned on every detail :rolleyes: Can't blame the previous owner on this truck.
 
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Hypoid

Hypiod is the recomended type of oil. Stalube is the brand I used from (Big "A "auto parts). Since I changed the rear end fluid I discover that Dodge recommends synthetic for heavy towing. It is my opinion that the Mag-Hytec cover is the better bag for the buck judging by the look, smell, and feel of the oil after useage. We cleaned the housing with shop rags. we jacked up each end of the axle to drain them but not much came out. Do a search on rear dif oil change or mag-hytec and you will find instruction from genos. When you get the new cover it will tell you how to install with the torque values etc.
 
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