33k and U-joint went bad see pic

[Sixpac2]

My truck is a 04. 5 DRW LWB Manual



We were on are way home to Seattle from Kentucky a mere 3600 miles.

Towing a 34 foot 5ver and started to notice a vibration when we would slow down to 25 MPH to zero. and some on start up. since we were on a schedule

and at the time did not know what exactly was going on I pushed on.



I did notice that is I let some air out of the air bags and let the truck ride slightly rear low that the vibe would mostly go away. Then come back when driving the truck empty. not towing.



Also did notice about a . 5 to 1 MPG difference to the negative compare to the trip over there. I thought it may be due to all the places to eat in Kentucky



Anyway made it home and I went to pull the driveline off. I noticed that the

center U joint was coming apart and you could not move it by hand.



I took it to a well known driveline shop in Seattle and they were going to put in a Splicer Greasable joint but found out that they could not due to lack of clearance. So They put in a Non Greasable Splicer. Also had it balanced at the same time.



Now all is good and the vib is gone. none. unlike the stock unit.



I suspect that this joint was going bad for a long time.



My wife and the dogs are just happy that we made it home before a total breakdown.



See the pics, Marv

 

[RMalone]

Welcome to the club buddy!! I replaced the rear at about 29k mi. At about 65 I had to replace every single u-joint on the truck (front wheel bearings didn't come out in one piece so add that to the bill), and at 70k the CV joint on the front drive shaft went while on vacation (and yes I managed to trash the shaft) ching!! Your pics look VERY familiar to me, are you sure those aren't pics of my truck??

 

[RMalone]

Welcome to the club buddy!! I replaced the rear at about 29k mi. At about 65 I had to replace every single u-joint on the truck (front wheel bearings didn't come out in one piece so add that to the bill), and at 70k the CV joint on the front drive shaft went while on vacation (and yes I managed to trash the shaft) ching!! Your pics look VERY familiar to me, are you sure those aren't pics of my truck?? Even the pretty red drive shaft looks like mine. :-laf

 

[gravedigger]

Just replaced both of my Ujoints on the front at 30k miles

 

[J.BURCHFIELD]

I do not see how a greasable U-Joint would require any more clearance than a non greasable. It could be that a greasable was not readly available and they wanted to finish the job. There is the belief among some mechanics that one is as good as the other. This may come from the fact that what the factory installes is non greasable. The factory does it to save money gambeling they will outlast the warrenty. Truth is they don't always and you are always better off to have the greasable. I grease mine every 10K. I don't trust anyone to do it. They pull the trigger on the grease gun twice and think that is good enough. I stay on the fitting until I see grease comming out the other side, then I know it has been done right.

 

[MMeier]

This may come from the fact that what the factory installes is non greasable. The factory does it to save money gambeling they will outlast the warrenty.

Came real close on mine. . rear went out right at 100k. . front Cv made it to 151K had whole shaft redone, but supposedly no one makes a greasable double cardan joint. . is this true?

 

[Prairie Dog]

Excellent post, gives me something to look for w/o actually taking everything apart.

BTW, what drive line shop was it?

Thanks!



Scotty

 

[Slow Six]

Precesion make all the u-joints for these trucks and they are greaseable.

 

[Sixpac2]

Excellent post, gives me something to look for w/o actually taking everything apart.

BTW, what drive line shop was it?

Thanks!



Scotty

It was Drivelines NW They are lots of help, will talk with you and answer any question you have.

 

[Cattletrkr]

but supposedly no one makes a greasable double cardan joint. . is this true?

The CV joint on mine was replaced with a greaseable unit. I think it says Spicer on it but I'm not sure about that. Yes it greaseable, but I have to drop the shaft to do it. The zerks WILL NOT line up anywheres near close enough to get a gun on them. There simply isn't enough room around the zerk. It's been in for 30K and I've only greased it once.

 

[DeezelDood]

Good timing on this post, thanks. Look at Issue 54 pg 45.

Anyone know if '06 is affected?

 

[CBradford]

They pull the trigger on the grease gun twice and think that is good enough. I stay on the fitting until I see grease comming out the other side, then I know it has been done right.

i think this is the reason that they many don't offer greaseable ujoints/balljoints and tie rod ends... ... you should never grease any joint until the grease squirts out of the seals... ...

 

[PGreenleaf]

Go to your auto parts store and you can buy an adopter that snaps on the end of your grease gun that has a slimmer end on it. It allows you to get in there and grease them on the truck. The adopter does NOT snap on the zerk like a regular grease gun . You must hold it tightly on the zerk yourself while aplying grease.

While your there buy yourself another neet little adopter for your grease gun. Its a hollow needle . Snaps on your grease gun also and allows you to grease SEALED bearings. The sharp needle end you work around the seal on the bearing and get a shot of grease in there. Use on iddler pullys on lawn mowers etc. Oo. Oo.

 

[J.BURCHFIELD]

Grease Guns are not perfect. Sometimes they work sometimes they don't. When grease comes out the other side you know the Gun has worked and the item has been properly greased. In 60 years of owning cars and trucks I have never had to replace a greaseable part because it had not been greased properly. I am trying to remember, I think it was the late 70s or early 80s the industry started building vehicles that no longer needed to get a grease job. Grease Monkeys went the way of elevator operators. Semis and light trucks still needed to be greased. The idea of having U-Joints, ball joints and tie rod ends etc. that can not be greased to me is dead wrong. If ever I am faced with a greaseable part being unavailable I will drill and tap to accept a zerk fitting. To each his own.

 

[Cat Cracker]

Mine went bad at 26k, and again at 55k. They are already getting sloppy... once I have to start paying for these things I'm gonna have to find a different alternative to stock...



Cat Cracker

 

[J.BURCHFIELD]

Dodge and others made a serious mistake by trying to save money by not providing zerk fittings on critical parts. I would not be surprised if it has cost them money. When these parts are replaced they should be replaced with greaseable parts. Reading all the post on here seems to bear this out. In my own case the use of light duty parts (on a heavy duty truck) caused early failure. Dodge might be hoping they can blame it on driver abuse. I wouldn't put it past them. My experience has been such that I will no longer go to a dealer except to buy a new vehicle. I drive away and never go back. If I can't fix it I know good reliable people that can. It is a foregone conclusion when I buy that I will forgo any warranty. For the money I may loose it is better than going to a dealer and by my presence there saying here I am pull your latest scam on me. I am not suggesting anything, just saying what my years or experience have taught me to do. When the dealers I buy from (invoice or I go elsewhere) do not get my warranty work they don't get paid anything by the factory. Such a pity.

 

[RobertP]

mine when out friday it started doing the same thing very strong vibration when slowing under 25 mph. it will be replaced today. the center one.

 

[MMeier]

mine when out friday it started doing the same thing very strong vibration when slowing under 25 mph. it will be replaced today. the center one.

Do yourself a favor and replace all of them, the others are not far behind!

 

[Riverrat]

When you grease a U joint there is 4 passages for the grease to go in to It will take the path of least resistance. There for usually only 1 or 2 of the bearings get any grease. Also you should never push grease in to a u joint until it comes out any place. you should watch the seals on the bearing caps & stop when you see them start to swell.

This being said I am still of the belief that any grease is better than none!!!!!!!

 

[DPKetchum]

After extended hwy driving pulling about 9k and going off a ramp and then pulling off again I get this bad rapid shudder through 1st and 2nd. Let it sit overnight and it won't do it. Only starts after extended interstate at speeds of 60 to 70mph with goose neck tailer hooked. Just started this couple days ago. I have 24k on truck. Is this a u/joint or in the AAM axel?