2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 36,000 Miles Warranty Dealership Visit

[MARSHMELLOWS]

My 2002 HO six speed has not missed a beat since new. The reasons for this upcoming dealer visit is strickly related to a few minor warranty (just in time) items before the odometer reaches 36,000 miles: heater control concern, leaking rear shock, and a 'factory ' hole in the leather front seat.



I would say the only item that has been less than perfect, is, in my opinion, the trans operation. Yes, I recognize its a real truck trans. If it this was a 1970 2 ton delivery truck, I'd say it was fine. I've read others have similar concerns about the smoothness of their 6 speed trans. I know I'm preaching to the choir, but after all, this six speed was built in this new milenium. Not 30 years ago. When I'm pulling my trailer, I find it better to double clutch, or delay the shift, to allow the trans to "unload" the torque (?). Like I said, the trans would certainly get a passing grade, but not an "A+" like the Cummins power plant deserves.



This open question is intended to draw "advise" from other TDR members as to what else I should also ask, pursue, or demand before the 36,000 body warranty expires. Please, any advice/thoughts on my 2002 HO that I should check, or ask about, I would appreciate hearing your suggestions. This will be my first DODGE SERVICE EXPERIENCE Other than the Banks exhaust and exhaust brake, no other mods exist... Thanks for your suggestions.

 

[AKAMAC]

I've read about hard shifting 5600's here but they all seem to come down to a proper fluid level/viscosity.

The only thing that I wish I had taken care of before expiration of the 36k limit was my middle seat lid hinge keepers. You know the tabs that keep it open. Mine broke off within 12k and with my experience with local dealers I decided to let it go. The "keep open feature" would be nice but not at the expense of me having dealer fatigue. If yours is good that's great.

Another thing I would have done is to have an independent shop inspect the front end (Most are free) for ball joint, track bar, and tie rod end play. Some of the folks here have had trouble with this.

Good luck and let us know how it goes. Mike

 

[Sojourner]

You definitely want to make sure your vacuum pump oil seal isn't leaking. The puke bottle is located in the same area and those little oil spots you find after you've parked may lead you to believe that it is puke bottle related. Do not be fooled! Fortunately for me I have a great relationship with the service manager at the local dealer and he replaced my vacuum pump under warranty when the truck was 'slightly' past 36,000 miles (it had been leaking for some time, we finally put some dye in the oil to locate the problem). What was odd was that after they replaced the vacuum pump the power steering pump froze up and they replaced that under warranty as well. When they replaced the PS pump I had them put Redline PS fluid in it. No leaks now.



Also, if you've got the butt burners in those leather seats make sure they are working *properly* (as in fully heating both the seat bottom and back). My driver side doesn't heat properly after it was worked on once and it costs about $400 to replace the seat cover with element from what I understand.

 

[Dieselram]

5600 shifting

Every since i got my Truck it doesn;t like to go into 4th gear when shifting quick, double clutching fixes it, lets the trans catch up to the motor. but other than that No problems outta my 6 speed. . just the one gear

 

[Sixpack]

After my truck passes 36k I'm dumping the stock lube and refilling with Redline MTL. Alot of folks have said after the change to Redline the transmission shifts much smoother and the notchiness, is that a word? ;0) disappears or is greatly reduced. Just my 2 pennies.....

 

[Sojourner]

I'm using the Redline MTL and I'm still undecided. My perceived *improvement* in 'smoothness and less notchiness' has been outweighed by what seems to be a marked increase in the frequency and degree of difficulty in getting the NV5600 to go into first or second (as well as other gears including reverse) at a dead stop. I may go back to the factory spec dino oil just to see if there is an improvement in that respect.

 

[Sticks]

Have them check you LP and VP44.

 

[MARSHMELLOWS]

THANKS !! I appreciate all your suggestions. I'll "get busy" and overview the items before my dealer visit. Some of your ideas I had not even considered. I failed to update my signature to include the addition of the SOLID STEEL IND. LTD. steering stabilizer unit. This was a great improvement to the overall tracking of my truck.



ADDITIONAL CONCERNS:::::





I have removed my "PUKE BOTTLE" and routed a hose straight down, then forward through the cross member (under radiator), the out & down, inboard of right front tire. Do you expect I'll get dealer negative feedback



I only get one speedometer "message text" readout, " P ECU " when I cycle my key 3 times on/off. Is this a concern ?



Thanks for your help and suggestions

 

[grindo]

I hope your first experience will be better than mine. I sent my '02 in at just under 36000 for a broken glove box door hinge, leak at the vacum pump, leak at one of the auto trans lines, and a faded spot on the bed about 16" in diameter. Well, after 3 days in the shop they wouldn't warranty the glove box, called the 2 leaks "normal weepage" and said if the paint wasn't cracking that they wouldn't take care of that either. So this was my first and last trip to a 5 star dealer.

 

[b.ferrara]

5600

hello, just my 2 cents about the transmission. all diesels take an extra 2 seconds

to un torque themselves, unlike gas motors. I'm about to retire from the

NYC fire dept, but before that job and as a second income I've been driving trucks for 18 years. When I test drove an 04 a few months ago I knew right away that dodge had finally mastered the trannny, my 1st gen had the 5spd

getrag and my 2nd gen has the 4500. 2 things about a truck transmission,

not all but most will go 500k plus I'd love to see dodge put a road ranger in a truck. Anyway to cure you troubles with double clutching (don't clutch at all)

I would say somewhere around 2000 rpm would be perfect. Out at 2000 into

the next gear at 1200. Power shifting works great, sometimes you'll need to clutch on a steep hill or towing, but for the most part if you don't hot rod and you accellerate smoothly you can shift 95% of the time without the clutch. After some practice and you get confident you can even down shift without the clutch. Godd luck, Bill

 

[Sojourner]

I would say somewhere around 2000 rpm would be perfect. Out at 2000 into the next gear at 1200.

In the stock 24v ETH the torque really begins to build around 2,000 RPM and sharply drops off after around 2,700 RPM. When pulling heavy I always shift mine so that I'm always in the 2,000 - 2,700 range when pulling hard on hills or on breakaway/acceleration to speed. I've found that the gear ratio in the 01 6 speed is so perfectly spaced that when I shift at ~ 2,650 - 2,700 I am able to hook back up in the next gear right around 2,000 thru all five shifts, unless I'm pulling a hill and then I'll take it up to redline if necessary in order to hook back up at 2,000 again due to loss of momentum. (Bobcat & trailer = ~ 12K and 5er is 12 - 14k) It seems to work and run best in this range for me 'cause I certainly don't want to lug it under 2,000. YMMV depending upon your drivetrain combination.



As for shfting without a clutch on the six speed, I recall some TDR member posting something on these forums that the NV5600 was never intended to be shifted without the clutch like a tractor transmission is.