I have a friend with a 1995 2500 Dodge 4x4 diesel, auto. trans. . He says condensation freezes in the vacuum lines and 4 wheel drive stops working when it's cold outside. Right now the truck is stuck on the side of the road. Anybody know how to fix this issue once and for all? He said he changed the boots this past summer and thought that would be it. Does he just need to replace all the plastic vacuum line(s)? Thanks!
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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 4 wheel drive failure when cold outside
- Thread starter Lordsman
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Lordsman,
There are cable kits to have direct lock up ot the axle sleeve that is run off of the vacuum, (and later electrically heated gas expansion slave), on the front axle. They are available from the big retail outfits... . 4wheel parts, etc.
Eddie
There are cable kits to have direct lock up ot the axle sleeve that is run off of the vacuum, (and later electrically heated gas expansion slave), on the front axle. They are available from the big retail outfits... . 4wheel parts, etc.
Eddie
To get it off the side of the road (is he stuck because of no 4wd or what? can't you pull him out?), if he can get to the CAD and remove it, I think he can manually slide the engagement sleeve to engage the front axle. He may then need to come up with a way to block or hold the CAD fork in the engaged position.
I know getting to the CAD may be very difficult if he is stuck with deep snow packed heavily around the front axle. It happens to me sometimes when plowing and I always fret about tearing the vacuum hose off my CAD in that situation just when I need it most.
Or he might possibly run a temporary new vacuum hose directly from a constant vacuum port down to the CAD if freezing condensation in the vacuum line is indeed the culprit. I'd try that first.
My guess is he is now completely fed up and distrusting of the CAD, with good reason, and should invest the $120 or so in the cable kit Eddie mentioned and never worry about the CAD again. I believe it is marketed as the Posi-Lok.
I know getting to the CAD may be very difficult if he is stuck with deep snow packed heavily around the front axle. It happens to me sometimes when plowing and I always fret about tearing the vacuum hose off my CAD in that situation just when I need it most.
Or he might possibly run a temporary new vacuum hose directly from a constant vacuum port down to the CAD if freezing condensation in the vacuum line is indeed the culprit. I'd try that first.
My guess is he is now completely fed up and distrusting of the CAD, with good reason, and should invest the $120 or so in the cable kit Eddie mentioned and never worry about the CAD again. I believe it is marketed as the Posi-Lok.
I'm referring to the actuator on the axle housing on the passenger side. It is just a vacuum slave that engages and disengages the sliding collar that connects the axle half-shafts. If it does not engage, for any reason, neither front wheel will drive.
Chances are good that he simply has a bad vacuum line going to it, or perhaps to the switch on the t-case that controlls the vacuum to it when you move the t-case lever. Or the switch itself. It's not a complex setup, or many moving parts, but there are multiple components. One or more of them is clearly not working. Odds favor a bad vacuum line. Or even just a disconnected one. So, in this emergency, he should try to bypass as many components as possible with a replacement vacuum line directly to the CAD from a constant vacuum source.
Someone else could probably offer better advice on the best vacuum source to tap at the engine. The one going to the vacuum switch on the t-case would be best I suppose. But he could T into the brake booster vacuum hose and reduce the line down to fit the CAD fitting if he had to.
I'm just picturing what it is probably like where he is stuck and worried how badly buried that axle might be. Deep, hard-packed snow around the axle and numb fingers won't help.
If the CAD itself is functional, he simply needs to provide vacuum to it. If it is not functional, he will need to manually engage the sliding collar by removing the CAD from the axle, sliding it over the axle splines, and then find a way to block the CAD (it defaults to disengaged i believe) in the engaged position.
Another less likely possibility (and I hope not) is the engagement collar itself has broken. He can't fix that where he is right now and will need a tow or tug if that is the case.
Does he have any access to any tools at all or any vacuum line or what. . ? Or is he stranded with no tools, help, other transportation, or parts?
Chances are good that he simply has a bad vacuum line going to it, or perhaps to the switch on the t-case that controlls the vacuum to it when you move the t-case lever. Or the switch itself. It's not a complex setup, or many moving parts, but there are multiple components. One or more of them is clearly not working. Odds favor a bad vacuum line. Or even just a disconnected one. So, in this emergency, he should try to bypass as many components as possible with a replacement vacuum line directly to the CAD from a constant vacuum source.
Someone else could probably offer better advice on the best vacuum source to tap at the engine. The one going to the vacuum switch on the t-case would be best I suppose. But he could T into the brake booster vacuum hose and reduce the line down to fit the CAD fitting if he had to.
I'm just picturing what it is probably like where he is stuck and worried how badly buried that axle might be. Deep, hard-packed snow around the axle and numb fingers won't help.
If the CAD itself is functional, he simply needs to provide vacuum to it. If it is not functional, he will need to manually engage the sliding collar by removing the CAD from the axle, sliding it over the axle splines, and then find a way to block the CAD (it defaults to disengaged i believe) in the engaged position.
Another less likely possibility (and I hope not) is the engagement collar itself has broken. He can't fix that where he is right now and will need a tow or tug if that is the case.
Does he have any access to any tools at all or any vacuum line or what. . ? Or is he stranded with no tools, help, other transportation, or parts?
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The cad is the central axle disconnect it is on the passenger side of the front axle and has a fork inside that slides a coller with splines over the outboard half of the axle. You can remove the cover with a 10mm socket if I remember right. It is only 4 bolts but the trick is the splines of the inner and outer halves of the axle would have to be aligned to get the coller to slide. There are only two ways I know of to do that first is to be very lucky and the splins already line up the second would be to jack the passnger tire off the ground and rotate the tire until the splines line up.
He could also try carefully putting a little heat on the vacume motor itself to thaw the condensation ice but keep in mind too much heat will melt the diaphragm in the vacume motor.
Once he gets the thing home buy the cable people are talking about ( 4x4 Posi-Lok - 4WD Engagement Systems ). I would never take my truck off-road without one especially in the snow
He could also try carefully putting a little heat on the vacume motor itself to thaw the condensation ice but keep in mind too much heat will melt the diaphragm in the vacume motor.
Once he gets the thing home buy the cable people are talking about ( 4x4 Posi-Lok - 4WD Engagement Systems ). I would never take my truck off-road without one especially in the snow
Great advice, great explanations. He's getting help/towed from someone last I heard. I'll give him your info. and well go from there. Thanks again, can always count on the TDR!
If we have more questions I'll post them. He is short of cash right now so hopefully it's not too bad.
If we have more questions I'll post them. He is short of cash right now so hopefully it's not too bad.
mwilson
TDR MEMBER
Put the transfer case in 2wd High before you get under the truck to remove the CAD cover and fork assembly.
You can then reach up and turn the front driveline by hand to align the splines on the collar and axle. Then you can slide the collar over to the left to engage it. Don't need to jack anything up. Then use some small mechanics wire or something similar to hold the fork in the engaged position all the way to the left and loosely bolt the cover back on.
Be gentle, take your time. It might leak a little gear oil but you won't be going far with it I assume. If you have some distance to go after getting it unstuck, take the wire back off and bolt the cover on properly. You will lose a cupfull of gear oil when you first remove the CAD but not enough to hurt anything. Add gear oil to bring it back to full when it gets to town for repairs.
Low budget get me out of the snowbank now plan...
Mike
You can then reach up and turn the front driveline by hand to align the splines on the collar and axle. Then you can slide the collar over to the left to engage it. Don't need to jack anything up. Then use some small mechanics wire or something similar to hold the fork in the engaged position all the way to the left and loosely bolt the cover back on.
Be gentle, take your time. It might leak a little gear oil but you won't be going far with it I assume. If you have some distance to go after getting it unstuck, take the wire back off and bolt the cover on properly. You will lose a cupfull of gear oil when you first remove the CAD but not enough to hurt anything. Add gear oil to bring it back to full when it gets to town for repairs.
Low budget get me out of the snowbank now plan...
Mike
Lordsman, I just went out and crawled under my 96 to refresh my memory. There are two vacuum lines going to the CAD. They are hard plastic lines from the t-case, across the crossmember, and down the frame to near the CAD. There they do a 90* elbow into rubber hoses going to the molded plug on the CAD. I found my plug was cracking a year ago, but still working, but I bypassed it anyway.
I do not know for sure if the CAD is vacuum "engage" and vacuum "disengage", (I thought it was spring loaded and defaulted to disengage with no vacuum, but that doesn't appear correct now). The only explanation for the two lines I can think of is that it must not default either way and requires vacuum to both engage or disengage. I know for sure it needs vacuum to at least one of those CAD diaphram ports to engage.
Unfortunately, just switching the two lines won't help because the t-case will cut the 2wd vacuum at the switch even if that line is still good.
My CAD is totally solid ice packed and there is no way for me to check it farther without damaging those cold brittle hoses. Sorry, but we had a big snow a few days ago and I plowed hard for 12 hours, then the temps plummeted subzero and my whole undercarriage is an iceball now.
At any rate, he needs to have vacuum to at least one of those ports on the CAD diaphram when the 4wd is engaged. He will not be able to see, much less fix any problem at the t-case switch in his circumstances. It is buried up on top of everything. That means he will need to find a way to get vacuum down to the correct CAD port(s) from whatever source he can. If that fails, he must remove the CAD entirely (4 10mm bolts) and manually engage the collar and figure out a way to make sure it stays engaged.
I wish him well. His truck must look a lot like mine underneath right now, and I would need a hammer and chisel just to find the CAD...
I do not know for sure if the CAD is vacuum "engage" and vacuum "disengage", (I thought it was spring loaded and defaulted to disengage with no vacuum, but that doesn't appear correct now). The only explanation for the two lines I can think of is that it must not default either way and requires vacuum to both engage or disengage. I know for sure it needs vacuum to at least one of those CAD diaphram ports to engage.
Unfortunately, just switching the two lines won't help because the t-case will cut the 2wd vacuum at the switch even if that line is still good.
My CAD is totally solid ice packed and there is no way for me to check it farther without damaging those cold brittle hoses. Sorry, but we had a big snow a few days ago and I plowed hard for 12 hours, then the temps plummeted subzero and my whole undercarriage is an iceball now.
At any rate, he needs to have vacuum to at least one of those ports on the CAD diaphram when the 4wd is engaged. He will not be able to see, much less fix any problem at the t-case switch in his circumstances. It is buried up on top of everything. That means he will need to find a way to get vacuum down to the correct CAD port(s) from whatever source he can. If that fails, he must remove the CAD entirely (4 10mm bolts) and manually engage the collar and figure out a way to make sure it stays engaged.
I wish him well. His truck must look a lot like mine underneath right now, and I would need a hammer and chisel just to find the CAD...
mwilson
TDR MEMBER
The transfer case switch reverses the vacuum feed line and the vent line to move the diaphragm in the correct direction. In a critical situation you could apply vacuum to one side to hold the actuator in place if you can't get the cover off.
A hand pump Mighty Vac would also do it using a long vacuum line just to get unstuck.
Just got done troubleshooting mine, previous owner had run it too long with a leak that caused partial engagement and that ruined the splines on the intermediate axle and collar, awaiting all new parts now.
Mike
A hand pump Mighty Vac would also do it using a long vacuum line just to get unstuck.
Just got done troubleshooting mine, previous owner had run it too long with a leak that caused partial engagement and that ruined the splines on the intermediate axle and collar, awaiting all new parts now.
Mike
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So Mike, could he use the "disconnect" line while shifted into 2wd on the "engage" port to engage the collar, then just disconnect the line and shift into 4wd in his t-case? Would the collar stay engaged at least long enough to get unstuck?
That is, of course, if he has vacuum to the 2wd port, just not the 4wd port. If (and that's a big IF) he has any vacuum line, I would still put a direct line to that "engage" port from a constant source to make sure it stayed engaged and get the heck home.
Maybe use an axle vent hose...
That is, of course, if he has vacuum to the 2wd port, just not the 4wd port. If (and that's a big IF) he has any vacuum line, I would still put a direct line to that "engage" port from a constant source to make sure it stayed engaged and get the heck home.
Maybe use an axle vent hose...
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mwilson
TDR MEMBER
No, it won't stay put.
He will have rig a line as you suggested to keep full vacuum in the left port of the actuator because without constant vacuum the darn switch for the 4wd indicator light will push the fork back just enough to disengage the collar as soon as any tourqe is applied. There is no spring assist or anything in there, all straight up vacuum on a diaphragm.
That is how they ruined my inner axle by running the truck in 4wd with a constant vacuum leak
Mike
He will have rig a line as you suggested to keep full vacuum in the left port of the actuator because without constant vacuum the darn switch for the 4wd indicator light will push the fork back just enough to disengage the collar as soon as any tourqe is applied. There is no spring assist or anything in there, all straight up vacuum on a diaphragm.
That is how they ruined my inner axle by running the truck in 4wd with a constant vacuum leak
Mike
So the collar was only partially engaged?
I thought I remembered some type of spring forcing the shift fork to 2wd when I rebuilt that front axle. Maybe it was just the indicator plunger after all. I mistakenly thought it was a default-to-2wd spring.
Somewhere, maybe here in the classifieds or maybe on ebay, some fella was selling a poor man's CAD kit real cheap that held the CAD collar engaged permanently like the newer Dodges with no CAD. Wasn't much to it, but I'm sure it worked if you didn't mind a full time axle, which CAD axles basically are anyway.
I thought I remembered some type of spring forcing the shift fork to 2wd when I rebuilt that front axle. Maybe it was just the indicator plunger after all. I mistakenly thought it was a default-to-2wd spring.
Somewhere, maybe here in the classifieds or maybe on ebay, some fella was selling a poor man's CAD kit real cheap that held the CAD collar engaged permanently like the newer Dodges with no CAD. Wasn't much to it, but I'm sure it worked if you didn't mind a full time axle, which CAD axles basically are anyway.
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mwilson
TDR MEMBER
Yeah, the switch has a spring loaded plunger in it. It will shove that fork over quite a bit with a slight vacuum leak. If the indicator light in the dash starts to blink on and off when using 4wd then that is what is happening down there. The vacuum drops, switch kicks the fork over, vacuum builds back up and overcomes the switch, back and forth it goes. If left untreated it will take the splines off of the intermediate axle. The splines will wear down and bring it to the point of completely useless after a while. Even a Posi-Lock kit won't save it at that point.
I had evaluated it all Saturday evening here at the shop as it has been giving me trouble for a couple of weeks and was trying to nurse it along until this weekend, but drove it 60 miles in wet, heavy, slippery snow to get home that night in 4wd.
I know there will be some carnage as it went "DRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR-BANG" Sunday morning when I moved it to snowblow and then 4wd was a faded memory... ... .....
All parts should be here by Friday, will document the mess with pictures.
Can't even get it up to climb the slight slope of the driveway right now.
Had to dig the Mega out of the snowbank again to get to work this week.
Mike
I had evaluated it all Saturday evening here at the shop as it has been giving me trouble for a couple of weeks and was trying to nurse it along until this weekend, but drove it 60 miles in wet, heavy, slippery snow to get home that night in 4wd.
I know there will be some carnage as it went "DRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR-BANG" Sunday morning when I moved it to snowblow and then 4wd was a faded memory... ... .....
All parts should be here by Friday, will document the mess with pictures.
Can't even get it up to climb the slight slope of the driveway right now.
Had to dig the Mega out of the snowbank again to get to work this week.
Mike
Makes me glad I found the cracked rubber connector on mine before it had a chance to do that.
I finally have my (trumpet please) brand-new FORD hubs and rotors coming this week to go along with my used FORD spindles and knuckles. (Boy, that Dana 60 stuff is getting pricey! It's taking me forever to find and afford this stuff). I still need the ford dual piston calipers and the super-beefy solid 35 spline inner and outer axle shafts, but I do already have the premium Warn 35-spline lockout hubs.
I intend to make as close to a real Dana 60 out of this front axle as best I can with factory parts even if they are from the blue oval factory. It will still have balljoints (wimpy, wimpy, wimpy!), but the rest will be the real deal. Hopefully, I'll find a good deal on an ARB along the way.
This man's CAD nightmare is very easy for me to relate to and adds some incentive to get mine done.
I can't wait to kiss my CAD, unit bearing hubs, and 2-piece dana 44 sized shafts goodby forever!
I finally have my (trumpet please) brand-new FORD hubs and rotors coming this week to go along with my used FORD spindles and knuckles. (Boy, that Dana 60 stuff is getting pricey! It's taking me forever to find and afford this stuff). I still need the ford dual piston calipers and the super-beefy solid 35 spline inner and outer axle shafts, but I do already have the premium Warn 35-spline lockout hubs.
I intend to make as close to a real Dana 60 out of this front axle as best I can with factory parts even if they are from the blue oval factory. It will still have balljoints (wimpy, wimpy, wimpy!), but the rest will be the real deal. Hopefully, I'll find a good deal on an ARB along the way.
This man's CAD nightmare is very easy for me to relate to and adds some incentive to get mine done.
I can't wait to kiss my CAD, unit bearing hubs, and 2-piece dana 44 sized shafts goodby forever!
I don't have a list anymore, it went down with my old computer. As luck would have it, my 'replacement computer' for it just went belly up this morning and I'm now using my kid's old computer. (see why I don't want any doggine computer on any of my vehicles?)
However, as a brief summary, after seeing a couple of the less-expensive, non-big name conversions that were being marketed the past couple of years, it appeared to me that they were simply using ford spindles and hubs and redrilling the 5-bolt ford spindles to fit our dodge knuckles. All factory stuff. No depending on an aftermarket company for replacement parts in the future.
The axle kits are readily available, but not factory items to the best of my knowledge, but axle shafts will always be available from various sources and are independent items.
I was rebuilding my dodge front balljoint axle a year and a half ago and noticed that certain years of fords used the same exact balljoint part numbers. I got ahold of a pair of ford outer knuckles and carefully measured and compared them to the dodge inner knuckles and they are a perfect straight-up bolt-on to our existing inner knuckles and balljoints. Which makes perfect sense if you are Dana and trying to keep the BIG we-gotta-be-different-but-keep-our-costs-down 3 happy without going broke. Just as 1st gen dodge and chevy dana 60's were straight bolt in swaps and nearly identical.
So instead of redrilling the 5-hole ford hubs to fit the 4-hole dodge knuckles, and reusing dodge rotors and calipers, my intent is to replace everything from the inner knuckles on out with ford parts. Why not? I'll gain some 5-bolt over 4-bolt strength and I'll get ford's superior dual piston calipers to boot.
The ford hubs could/should be machined down a fraction in diameter to match dodge/chevy wheels, but with aftermarket wheels, it isn't really necessary (until you need to use your dodge spare). I will have them turned down.
I will likely need to adapt the dodge brake hoses to the ford calipers, but that's minor.
My parts then, so far:
Mid-90's ford balljoint dana 60 items:
outer knuckles
spindles (with nut kit and inner bearings and seals)
hubs (with studs and bearings and races and seals)
rotors
Warn 35-spline lockouts
I still need to buy ford calipers, pads, etc. along with the 35-spline inner and outer axle shafts and seals. For those, I would need the dodge-length 35-spline replacement 1-piece inners and 35-spline ford-length outers. I already have a 35-spline carrier from a chevy, but would love to put in an ARB instead.
It is not an inexpensive conversion no matter how you do it. I don't know of anyone who has already done what I am trying, so until I get everything, there could still be unforeseen challenges.
Like an other upgrade, I expect to get something back. Like better fuel economy. MUCH stronger axle shafts and hubs that are easily and cheaply serviced and overall longer component life and reliability. And I can pitch the doggone CAD, which is good since the NP205 that is going in behind the NV5600 has no vacuum switch for a CAD.
Getting laid off twice last year really put the project(s) on hold for quite awhile. Thankfully, the stock stuff, all rebuilt and upgraded last year, is holding up.
I sometimes think the dodge body might fall off before I get everything upgraded to my tastes. If that happens, or a tree falls on it or something (please spare the cummins!), I still have plan B, which is a very nice chevy crewcab 4x4 1-ton srw with custom leather and oak interior and terrific aftermarket suspension and a real dana 60 and NP205 already in it. Whether it is this cummins or another, someday that truck is getting a cummins/NV5600 repower.
This dodge is nice to drive now that I spent a small fortune replacing and upgrading the frontend steering and suspension, but that particular custom cowboy cadillac chevy is even nicer and tougher and I don't care who that opinion offends. Between deer hits, rust, and snowplowing dings, the dodge is becoming 'the old beater'. But the cummins rattles on unphased with zero troubles and the dodge, after throwing enough money at the death wobble, is once again pleasant and safe to drive. It is getting a good case of the uglies, but that's a work truck for you. And I work it hard. Ever notice how a truck 4-wheels much better once it has a few dings and rust spots?
However, as a brief summary, after seeing a couple of the less-expensive, non-big name conversions that were being marketed the past couple of years, it appeared to me that they were simply using ford spindles and hubs and redrilling the 5-bolt ford spindles to fit our dodge knuckles. All factory stuff. No depending on an aftermarket company for replacement parts in the future.
The axle kits are readily available, but not factory items to the best of my knowledge, but axle shafts will always be available from various sources and are independent items.
I was rebuilding my dodge front balljoint axle a year and a half ago and noticed that certain years of fords used the same exact balljoint part numbers. I got ahold of a pair of ford outer knuckles and carefully measured and compared them to the dodge inner knuckles and they are a perfect straight-up bolt-on to our existing inner knuckles and balljoints. Which makes perfect sense if you are Dana and trying to keep the BIG we-gotta-be-different-but-keep-our-costs-down 3 happy without going broke. Just as 1st gen dodge and chevy dana 60's were straight bolt in swaps and nearly identical.
So instead of redrilling the 5-hole ford hubs to fit the 4-hole dodge knuckles, and reusing dodge rotors and calipers, my intent is to replace everything from the inner knuckles on out with ford parts. Why not? I'll gain some 5-bolt over 4-bolt strength and I'll get ford's superior dual piston calipers to boot.
The ford hubs could/should be machined down a fraction in diameter to match dodge/chevy wheels, but with aftermarket wheels, it isn't really necessary (until you need to use your dodge spare). I will have them turned down.
I will likely need to adapt the dodge brake hoses to the ford calipers, but that's minor.
My parts then, so far:
Mid-90's ford balljoint dana 60 items:
outer knuckles
spindles (with nut kit and inner bearings and seals)
hubs (with studs and bearings and races and seals)
rotors
Warn 35-spline lockouts
I still need to buy ford calipers, pads, etc. along with the 35-spline inner and outer axle shafts and seals. For those, I would need the dodge-length 35-spline replacement 1-piece inners and 35-spline ford-length outers. I already have a 35-spline carrier from a chevy, but would love to put in an ARB instead.
It is not an inexpensive conversion no matter how you do it. I don't know of anyone who has already done what I am trying, so until I get everything, there could still be unforeseen challenges.
Like an other upgrade, I expect to get something back. Like better fuel economy. MUCH stronger axle shafts and hubs that are easily and cheaply serviced and overall longer component life and reliability. And I can pitch the doggone CAD, which is good since the NP205 that is going in behind the NV5600 has no vacuum switch for a CAD.
Getting laid off twice last year really put the project(s) on hold for quite awhile. Thankfully, the stock stuff, all rebuilt and upgraded last year, is holding up.
I sometimes think the dodge body might fall off before I get everything upgraded to my tastes. If that happens, or a tree falls on it or something (please spare the cummins!), I still have plan B, which is a very nice chevy crewcab 4x4 1-ton srw with custom leather and oak interior and terrific aftermarket suspension and a real dana 60 and NP205 already in it. Whether it is this cummins or another, someday that truck is getting a cummins/NV5600 repower.
This dodge is nice to drive now that I spent a small fortune replacing and upgrading the frontend steering and suspension, but that particular custom cowboy cadillac chevy is even nicer and tougher and I don't care who that opinion offends. Between deer hits, rust, and snowplowing dings, the dodge is becoming 'the old beater'. But the cummins rattles on unphased with zero troubles and the dodge, after throwing enough money at the death wobble, is once again pleasant and safe to drive. It is getting a good case of the uglies, but that's a work truck for you. And I work it hard. Ever notice how a truck 4-wheels much better once it has a few dings and rust spots?
Ford hubs on your Dodge
In fear of hi-jacking this thread here is the list of Ford parts I have, I am mid- way through this mod now. First I am not replacing the knuckles, keeping the Dodge ones. I am keeping my CAD, I've never had any problems with it and by keeping it I can have two wheel low w/ the hubs locked. My hubs and spindles are from a 90s Ford Dana 50 you can use the 60s but around here much more expensive. If you do go with the 50 you need to get the stub axles from a D60, the ujoints are different. I stayed with the 30 spline stuff. Need to drill the spindle to fit the dodge knuckle. Get brake rotors from 78-79 Ford F 250, will bolt to the hub and will let you use your Dodge calipers. My reason for doing the mod was mainly to get rid of the unit bearings but there are other benefits. There are more detailed write-ups on the web for this and those are the ones I got my parts list from.
Floyd
In fear of hi-jacking this thread here is the list of Ford parts I have, I am mid- way through this mod now. First I am not replacing the knuckles, keeping the Dodge ones. I am keeping my CAD, I've never had any problems with it and by keeping it I can have two wheel low w/ the hubs locked. My hubs and spindles are from a 90s Ford Dana 50 you can use the 60s but around here much more expensive. If you do go with the 50 you need to get the stub axles from a D60, the ujoints are different. I stayed with the 30 spline stuff. Need to drill the spindle to fit the dodge knuckle. Get brake rotors from 78-79 Ford F 250, will bolt to the hub and will let you use your Dodge calipers. My reason for doing the mod was mainly to get rid of the unit bearings but there are other benefits. There are more detailed write-ups on the web for this and those are the ones I got my parts list from.
Floyd
Keeping the CAD would be unacceptable to me given the expense of even just converting to live-bearing hubs, as would keeping the teenie-weenie 2-piece (3 if you count the sliding sleeve) non-dana 60 axle shafts, but I probably put a lot more stress on my front end than most folks with that 1000 pounds of snowplow hanging 4 feet past the front bumper.
The NP205 with a split rail shifter setup will allow me my choice of Hi or Lo range in front wheel only, rear wheel only, or 4wd, as well as neutral. Plus, those ford dual piston calipers are massive and should really improve braking.
If I was just starting on gathering parts, I would buy a Solid Axle set of balljoint knuckles (no getting away from the balljoints without a $7000 custom axle) that have the chevy/dodge 6-bolt spindle pattern on them. I just recently saw they offer them now. I would lose the ford dual piston calipers, but I already had plenty of chevy Dana 60 parts and could have saved money overall.
All I really need at this point is the money for the 1. 5" true dana60 inner and dana 70 outer shafts and spicer cold forged u-joints. The ford calipers are readily available anywhere, though having some cores would reduce the cost, as are the remaining bearings and seals I need.
I mocked up all the parts I have last night and this is definitely going to work just as I planned with only the axle shafts being aftermarket non-oem stuff and I will still stay well below the price of a Dynatrac or Free-Spin kit and getting better brakes and probably more strength in the process.
If you can locate an early-mid nineties ford balljoint srw dana 60 and get all the knuckles-on-out parts from one axle, you will be way ahead of the game. You can then still sell the ford housing and carrier and shafts and recoup some of your money. And you don't "have to" upgrade the outer stub shafts to 35-spline like I'm doing to match the 35-spline inners. The 30-spline are sufficient for most needs.
The NP205 with a split rail shifter setup will allow me my choice of Hi or Lo range in front wheel only, rear wheel only, or 4wd, as well as neutral. Plus, those ford dual piston calipers are massive and should really improve braking.
If I was just starting on gathering parts, I would buy a Solid Axle set of balljoint knuckles (no getting away from the balljoints without a $7000 custom axle) that have the chevy/dodge 6-bolt spindle pattern on them. I just recently saw they offer them now. I would lose the ford dual piston calipers, but I already had plenty of chevy Dana 60 parts and could have saved money overall.
All I really need at this point is the money for the 1. 5" true dana60 inner and dana 70 outer shafts and spicer cold forged u-joints. The ford calipers are readily available anywhere, though having some cores would reduce the cost, as are the remaining bearings and seals I need.
I mocked up all the parts I have last night and this is definitely going to work just as I planned with only the axle shafts being aftermarket non-oem stuff and I will still stay well below the price of a Dynatrac or Free-Spin kit and getting better brakes and probably more strength in the process.
If you can locate an early-mid nineties ford balljoint srw dana 60 and get all the knuckles-on-out parts from one axle, you will be way ahead of the game. You can then still sell the ford housing and carrier and shafts and recoup some of your money. And you don't "have to" upgrade the outer stub shafts to 35-spline like I'm doing to match the 35-spline inners. The 30-spline are sufficient for most needs.
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
