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47re oil cooler fitting size

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You removed the hear exchanger?
He's talking about....
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Disregard. Did you just repair the leak? Or bypass the exchanger?
I installed new transmission lines. The temp port was put in line in 2007 when previous owner had a BD transmission installed. The port was never used. Truck has had a temp port sensor on the pan since BD trans install in 2007 (before I got the truck). My initial inquiry was "what is this?". I pulled it and it's in a baggie. No plans for use, your if you want....
 
Or, hook them both up with a switch where you can monitor both.

I did that on my 2001.5, a sensor in the pan will notify you when the transmission is toast. One in the output line will tell you ahead of time what you are doing to the transmission. I left the switch on the output line sensor after seeing the one in the pan was useless.

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A sensor in the pan will notify you when the transmission is toast. One in the output line will tell you ahead of time what you are doing to the transmission. I left the switch on the output line sensor after seeing the one in the pan was useless.

EXACTLY.
 
This is getting confusing. I was asking about the heat exchanger. I would like to remove my exchanger. I have a transmission temp gauge in the line. My transmission is heating up during city driving. I have an aftermarket cooler as well as factory cooler. I would like to bypass the heat exchanger to avoid heating the fluid that I am trying to cool. I am wondering if anyone has data to show the results from bypassing the heat exchanger?
 
The Heat Exchanger isn’t your problem. The reason your transmission is heating up during “city driving” is leaving it in gear when you’re not moving and because the TC isn’t locked. What’s your transmission temp when “city driving”?
 
The heat exchanger is just using the coolant, my coolant temp runs like 180-190ish, I.dont think it's adding to my Trans temps. The HE also mostly not needed for my use in my region, I would have no issue removing. I found a decent place that sells new ones. If not for that it would be gone because the Cummins price is like 8x what I paid.

ATF+4 in general is made for a really cold range, that's one of the key factors other fluids can't meet, but come close too. It does not really address the high end but it perform well past you trans seals temperature ranges.

I kept my HE in but yeah its pretty easy to bypass, you can diy a hose bypass.

You should confirm the location and condition of your gauge so it's reading an accurate temp at a good location

What do you think about doing a larger pan, make sure your running a decent fluid any ATF+4 unless you have a modified Trans then follow your builders recommended fluid.
 
This is getting confusing. I was asking about the heat exchanger. I would like to remove my exchanger. I have a transmission temp gauge in the line. My transmission is heating up during city driving. I have an aftermarket cooler as well as factory cooler. I would like to bypass the heat exchanger to avoid heating the fluid that I am trying to cool. I am wondering if anyone has data to show the results from bypassing the heat exchanger?
Sorry, my confusion. My initial post was what fitting size goes into heat exchanger then changed to "what is this?" ( inline trans temp port) which is what I thought you were asking about. So no I didn't do anything at heat exchanger like bypass or anything.
 
This is getting confusing. I was asking about the heat exchanger. I would like to remove my exchanger. I have a transmission temp gauge in the line. My transmission is heating up during city driving. I have an aftermarket cooler as well as factory cooler. I would like to bypass the heat exchanger to avoid heating the fluid that I am trying to cool. I am wondering if anyone has data to show the results from bypassing the heat exchanger?

Do you have a tight torque converter installed. Normal city driving should not overheat the the transmission fluid. Now heavy Friday night stop and go with more stop than going will push the temps up if you have a tight torque converter, so putting in neutral when stopped and raising RPM's a bit will help.
 
Thanks guys. The thread kind of took a turn, and I don't mean to hijack it. I test drove 50 plus trucks before buying this one. And drove 700 miles to buy it. It was much peppier than all the others, appeared very stock, had real low miles, and had not been chipped or tuned. I did notice that the trans had been replaced/rebuilt. I am unsure of the TC. I have been told by a couple 2nd Gen guys that I may have injectors after that have ridden in it. My problem is the trans gets real warm in the city. If ambient is 90 plus, with city stop and go, my trans gets up to 190/200 range. I pulled the pan and can not find any hop up changes in the trans. I installed a larger Derale cooler to help, but its not enough. I believe my valve body is stock because it does not circulate fluid in park. So with my trailer at 8500 lbs, it ends up getting into the 240°F range. Grades have not been a problem until I started hitting them at 65-70 mph. I am running an Isspro trans temp gauge in the trans line. I am looking at getting rid of the H/E to see if it helps keep my trans temp down. The trans temp actually caused the engine to get warm while climbing W out of Vegas.
 
Removing the heat exchanger will not help lower your transmission temps.

If my trans is running 130 and my engine is trying to heat it up via the heat exchanger
The transmission heat exchanger also help get the transmission fluid up to the desired operating temps.

SnoKing, does it effect anything other than overdrive though? I have no problem running it 3 speed until the trans heats up.
 
Removing the heat exchanger will not help lower your transmission temps.
I may just be not getting it. But if my trans is hitting 200°F on its own, why would I then push that fluid into a heat exchanger that it also about 200°F? Why wouldn't I bypass the HE and try to get that fluid cooled down? I just don't see the benefit in the case that I am having. Maybe my trans is already toast? And that is why its getting warm.
 
You have something else going on. I would start by having the radiator serviced. The fluid goes from the exchanger to the cooler in the front of the truck, then back to the transmission. I towed a 12,400 pound 5th wheel all over the West and never had over heating of the transmission or the engine while moving at a good clip. And I liked to change up hills fast! Do you hear the fan clutch engage from time to time when pulling hard? Rad and the fan clutch is where I would be looking. You should hear a pretty good roar when the fan clutch kicks in.

One other thought is in regards to torque converter lockup. If the torque converter is not locking then the transmission creates a lot of heat. A test drive by an good transmission shop would be in order for that. You can kind of ferret that out buy counting how many rpm drops you feel and see on a slow run to highway speed. The torque convert lockup will be a 2-300 RPM drop, and make one believe there is a 5th gear in a 4 speed transmission.
 
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My clutch fan sounds like its working. I hear the semi truck fan noise when it kicks on. The TC appears to be locking because I can watch the 200-300 rpm drop. I can force the drop early by letting off the throttle. The coolant is new and the radiator looks nice inside. I am sure I could flush it, but it looked good when I bore scoped it. So either the trans is on its way, the cooling system is not 100%, or maybe a combination of the two. But there are no big indicators pointing either way. I am trying everything I can before I pull the transmission.
 
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