47RE Rebuild Options

[Timd32]

Im going to rebuild my 47RE, the one installed has 205k, I've had truck for 3 years but only a few thousand miles, so unknown how hard it was run or towed. Since the trailer wiring was in such bad shape no way anyone consistently pulled a decent trailer with this thing.

The existing 47RE is toast for sure, changed the fluild last year and had heavy clutch debris and fluid well beyond burnt. Found some random spacer in the pan no one could assist where it might have come from. Its a mess at this point will only go 50mph,,, has lots of issues.

I have a lead on a unit that supposdly has 111k on it, ran good before pulled so the story goes. Local place I do trust them been around for many years, Its cheap enough, I was thinking of picking that one up and rebuilding it possibly just in case I run into a snag I would have parts atleast, plus dont have to tear mine apart right away.

Anyone do something like this with a spare trans, any suggestions? No so much on parts I have a plan for the rebuild already mapped out, unless I'm way off base trying this. We did full rebuild on 727s in school in the mid 90s so I think with the ATSG book it is pretty complete.

But besides money, would this save me time? Work time is much more lacking on my schedule , I know the trans I have wont hold up much longer.

Transfer Case whole different story, have not dug into the steps to work on that yet, will need to figure out what should be done to that while I have it out. Same deal we rebuilt some in school years ago, they are fairly simple and dont see alot of posts on folks rebuilding those. So would take opinions on that part.

 

[JMcCoy]

I would just rebuild the one you have with a good kit from a reputable company. I would also get a good torque converter and a good valve body that flows in park and holds lock in all gears.

 

[Bob4x4]

Besides the normal tools like you would need for the 727 a press to rebuild the overdrive unit is a near must.The transfer case is not too bad,it’s lightweight is nice compared to the old iron cases.There are kits from the aftermarket,be sure to replace the chain they stretch

 

[Timd32]

Thanks, I picked up a 20ton shop press a few months back, harbor freight but works OK, does not have the cast blocks that I have seen posts where they have failed. Also the welds are pretty decent in areas where I have seen others fail in their posts. Unless you think just a small arbor hand press is required.

Guess I just need to tear into this and get moving on what I have. Have about 6 weeks to get it all back toogether, transmission is just one of a few projects that need to get done.

Yeah deff. Need to look into the transfer case kits besides the case its self doing a quick refresh, Need to do a 2lo modification on the 4wd system, we pull some hay wagons in the summer and its rough getting thru the tight gates in 4wd at slow speeds.

So better flow in park for the trans valve body would be perfect, along with the 4wd updates.

 

[Timd32]

Started a bit this weekend. Was warmer on Sat then today. Did not do much out there but clean up my tools a bit.

Got the fluids drained and drive shafts out, the Rear yoke has 2 really rounded u-joint cap bolts, most likely have to cut those off.

Parts should ship by Mid Week for trans stuff, still have not made decision on the case parts but found a bunch of places on line, some wanted a pic of the tag on the unit so have that now.

Only have about 300 miles on the ATS fluid, had alot of debris in the pan again. Transfer case oil looked OK.

Good news truck was sitting for awhile put the key in wait to start went out and started right up was about 35deg, I would expect that but always nice. Had to move so have a little more room. Also helped to drain the ATF some.

 

[Timd32]

Made some more progress this weekend, it just refuses to warm up to a decent temp this year it seems so have not put too much time in, was in the 20s this AM and only 38 this afternoon, heat is in the tools for sure, but pretty much have everything disconnected.

Transmission to engine bolts are all out or loose. Breaker bar 36" of extenstion and a shallow swivel socket to get the tops one out. They were all pretty snug which is a good thing.


Torque converter bolts out.

Cooler lines and linkages out or out of the way. Those make a mess for sure.

Im thinking another good hour and will have it all out, I have a decent trans jack so still coming up with my game plan to take it all out in one chunk or try to separate the transferr case. Pretty much have to remove everything to get just the case out it seems so might see how balanced it is in one chunk. Have not resorted to youtube yet either to see which would be easier.

 

[Timd32]

Was able to sneak in 2 more hours tonight made good progress.

Cross member came out pretty easy mostly due to past threads I read about tapping it forward. I used two smaller jack stands under it as I worked it down just in case it came crashing down which it never did.

I used my 4ton jack on the back of the transfer case and the transjack under the pan, it was pretty stable and was able to get it down pretty controlled by lowering them at the same time slowly, the trans jack is nice the pump handle swivels and all wheels rotate so you have pretty good control.

Had to jack the truck up a bit to get it out from under it, I have 12 ton jack stands for when doing stuff like that just have to remember how heavy those are before I grab them.

Never did figure out the chain on the transjack so wound up bolting it it place and using the tensioner backwards and bolted it thru the chain and tightened it up that way. Deff want that thing secure coming out.

But getting there.

 

[KOG]

I'm in the middle of a 47RH rebuild. I've done 727, 904, 670, 604. This one is a little more of a challenge. Haven't got the tool to use in the press to get the OD apart, must make one. Using a Gorend kit. First reverse drum is toast.

 

[Timd32]

I picked up a tool and a alignment shaft from Cascade Transmission. Still have not really dug into mine yet. Not sure if really need the shaft to align but it was on the internet so must need it.....

Same here on the Goerend kit. They were really good to deal with answered a bunch of questions before purchasing. No pressure to up sell was my experience with them.

 

[Timd32]

Now before I did this I knew the part was missing or just not the right one but figured would try it because it was the only part in the kit that would fit.

I have everything in the kit sorted by size and type before I started.

I was assembling the front servo piston, the kit had a note that it contains 2 teflon seals and 1 metal seal, the 2 teflon go on the piston, the metal on the servo rod guide. Easy enough except the kit had no metal seal the diameter of what goes on the said guide, it did have a split seal that was same diameter but I noticed it was not as tall as the metal seal I took off.

So figured I would test fit it with that first, thats why its upside down in the pic, and low and behold doesnt the split seal fit exactly into the snap ring groove, yeah so good luck with that it is pretty much in a perfect cylinder with no side play, and is pretty much stuck in there the seal seated into the groove trapping the cover in the case. Something has to give and its not going to be the case.

I think I will mess with it a bit but my guess is I just bought another servo guide cover, and seal, $15 but still no fun.

Of course now reading the actual Sonnex sheet on that part says reuse the OE ring.