Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 47Re Rebuilding Tips and Pointers

[BWagnaar]

So, I've been searching the web for some good rebuild parts. So far Transmissioncenter.com has been the best place so far with the most varity.



My question are:

Will the 48RE planetary gear set fit in the 47re with the 47re sun gear?

Will the 48RE larger/thicker clutch baskets fit the 47RE?



My main question though is what is better, thicker or thinner clutches? They sell a few different thickness clutches and was wondering if i should try to fit as many thinner clutches or stay with a certain amount of the thicker clutches?

What is the shaft that takes the most abuse? If I were to replace one shaft with a billet unit which should i consider?



Any info would be greatly appreciated!... (also any tips and pointers on how to make it bullet proof )

 

[BWagnaar]

No one builds trannies??

 

[RPMDodge]

I guess not... ... If you find out please e-mail me. I too want to rebuilt my transmission. Thank you Rick

 

[johncameron]

Maybe call ATS or DDT. Even if you don't buy their products I'm sure they will help you out with your questions.

 

[Allnew2Me]

I just installed the Suncoast extreme rebuild kit in my 47RE with their 48RE valve body. The frictions are all Alto reds and they are the thinner and more of them type. the kit came with just about everything and it went in very well. The advantage of the thinner plates is that you get more of them, giving you more surface area. I suppose that there could be an issue with heat distortion but all my research didn't show anyone with that problem. Also, I was told by a Mopar tech that the 48RE internals would indeed fit into a 47RE case but I would check that before buying anything.

I also went back and forth regarding the "billet" shafts and went with the input only. The shaft, stock or aftermarket is only 1 1/32" in diameter which surprised me, and it has a hole in the center for fluid flow. My transmission guy told me that because it is before all the planetaries the torque really builds further down the power flow which is why the intermediate and output are much bigger. With my exhaust brake placing extra loads and the second gear lockup I have now I went with it for peace of mind. If you break the input you may destroy the pump and torque convertor, if you break the output you just spin. Even with the lower torque exposure, most of the broken shaft stories I have read have been the input. My transmission man went through the OD unit also and replaced all the snap rings and torrington bearings also ssince he was in there.

I love the difference in performance, and the trans runs 25 degrees cooler now.

 

[Joe Mc]

Maybe call ATS or DDT. Even if you don't buy their products I'm sure they will help you out with your questions.

Ditto what John said - the folks at DTT - (first hand experience here) are good folks and don't mind answering your questions. Remember what the Teachers told us? "The only question that is stupid, is the one we don't ask" . . . information is free (usually), learn everything you can before you get started.



I'm sure the folks at ATS are good too, just don't have first hand with them.



Good luck to you.

 

[BJMarshall]

I wish you were closer. I'd be glad to help.

The parts from transmissioncenter are top notch and they are easy to deal with. They are pretty close to me so my stuff comes in next day even when shipped ground.

If I were you, I would start by determining what the projected power level of the truck is going to be and then build the transmission to handle about 50% more. You have room to grow, and it doesn't hurt to overbuild the transmission. It will only last longer.

Get a service manual and study the transmission section. It won't tell you how to hop-up the transmission, but it will tell you how to build it right.

In my "humble opinion" harsh shifts should be left for racers. Nice, firm, crisp shifts are what you want for longevity on the street and towing. I don't care for locked shifts either as I think they break things, but again that is opinion. With a good converter, you won't need to shift while locked.

The 48re parts are a good upgrade, but they can be expensive. I have seen 47re parts last a long time when built right.

PM me if there is anything I can help you with.

Barry

 

[dieselshadow]

The planets will fit. I just rebuilt my 47rh to essentialy a "48rh". The only planet you really need to worry about is the rear planet set. You want to get rid of the aluminum planet and replace it with the steel one. I ordered mine from Dodge. It came with new thrust washers and a spacer. As far as your clutches are concerned, you need to stay on a strict diet of the correct clutches for your drums and apply pistons. Of course that will depend on the drums are going to run.



Ultimately, you need to speak with somebody who is intimate with these parts all the time. As far as who, pick your poison. I have a favorite and I would strongly recommend them. But you should do the research and find out what and who makes you happy. Customer service ranks right up there with me, not just a sales pitch.



I wrote a little more about DIY transmission overhauls in the 12v section recently. I believe it was titled 47rh questions.