48RE Shift Kit Question

[AWeaver]

Hey guys, I am wanting to know if it is necessary to keep the shift kit installed. I have a suncoast triple disk converter in my transmission and a transgo shift kit installed. VB is also suncoast. I have already snapped the stock input shaft and have had it rebuilt with a billet input shaft. The mechanic that built my transmission said when he rebuilt it the second time that he adjusted it down as low as he could but the thing still shifts waaaay to hard for my liking. I would like to just take the shift kit out completely if its not an absolute necessity. Would it hurt the transmission to take it out??? or should I just learn to live with it???? When it shifts into overdrive, the shift is so hard and sudden it makes my turbo bark and rattles all the change in my ash tray. It drives me crazy!!!

 

[JJPage]

I don't believe it's as simple as removing the shift kit, like it's a separate component, valve body orifices/ports have been drilled and modified to accommodate the Transgo kit. You may have to work with Suncoast and use their valve body to work properly with the triple disc converter.

 

[AWeaver]

I see. Guess I will have to live with it for now. If I had it to do all over again I probably would have gone with a single disk converter after reading all the posts on here. I will look into replacing the valve body. I thought I had a suncoast valve body installed, but I could be mistaking. Thanks for the info.

 

[JJPage]

The correct application of components is crucial, I am still running my single disc DTT converter, thats about 9 years old, still tight as ever. If I do have to replace, I'll use a triple disc, however then my valvebody will have to be re-worked to compliment the triple, or I am sure the shifts would be way too harsh.

Sounds like you are in a similar situation, lower the line pressure to soften shifts with the triple tc, but then risk it not holding and slipping...like you stated, maybe just live with it for now, and chalk it up to a lesson learned. Jess

 

[AWeaver]

Yep definitely had to learn a few lessons the hard way since having it rebuilt... twice. I am going to find out whether or not he actually did install an aftermarket valve body or just re-worked the stock one. Should have went with the billet shaft the first go round as well which is what I would recommend to anyone rebuilding theirs that has any added horsepower over stock. Thanks for the advice man.

 

[cerberusiam]

Remove the triple disk TC, you will a lot further ahead. The slamming into lockup is typical unless the VB has been worked over correctly and some times even that doesn't work.

 

[JJPage]

Remove the triple disk TC, you will a lot further ahead. The slamming into lockup is typical unless the VB has been worked over correctly and osme times even that doesn't work.

If it really is something you can't live with, this is probably the best solution now. You could fiddle fack with the valvebody from now till Christmas, and the triple is going to keep hitting as designed. I know the expense of a new single disc is not something you want to consider, and the new singles do not appear to be as robust as they once were, something about the quality of clutch material available.

I believe I would just drive it at this point, try to keep the throttle even so the lockup is not so harsh. I know, even with my single, I sometimes start backing off the throttle to allow lockup, and BAM, you have achieved lockup...

 

[Mark31]

This is the classic reminder (to me, anyway) that parts need to be purchased as a complete package, or better yet, with input from the builder, or buy a turnkey job or exchange. Once "mixing" is done and problems come up, then the blame game starts. And you lose every time! Slammin and bammin and bangin break things. Deal with it now, or I'll bet you a quarter that within a couple of years, you'll wish you had. My friend Chris (non-posting member) has 335k or so on his "Snowball" (white hard-working 03 3500 4 WD--Bullydog, then Smarty) with a Goerend built triple disk trans that has been working perfectly for 150-175k miles. Mark

 

[WalterJ]

This is the classic reminder (to me, anyway) that parts need to be purchased as a complete package, or better yet, with input from the builder, or buy a turnkey job or exchange. Once "mixing" is done and problems come up, then the blame game starts. And you lose every time! Slammin and bammin and bangin break things. Deal with it now, or I'll bet you a quarter that within a couple of years, you'll wish you had. My friend Chris (non-posting member) has 335k or so on his "Snowball" (white hard-working 03 3500 4 WD--Bullydog, then Smarty) with a Goerend built triple disk trans that has been working perfectly for 150-175k miles. Mark

---------------------------------
Yes, it's a marriage of the parts performance parameters working in unison. When my local transmission shop was given the GO to rebuild my 48RE, he discussed all the internal components that had a good history of service & driveability. I 'insisted' on a 3D TC so that I could forever forget about my towing causing reliability issues, esp on the road. They use "Precision" units. It shifts with a pleasant authority @ 50mph & drops out @ 45 mph. I feel some 'feedback' as the adjusted shift kit go thru the gears. It's tough to find a shop you can trust.

It's like someone asked about my doctor. I said check in with me at my funeral & see how I've done 'till then, other than that, I really don't know if he's good or not. Wally

 

[p-Bar]

Just keep your foot out of it so it won't shift so hard . Input shaft should have been installed in the beginning. When I manually shift in mountains with fiver i let off on the throttle a bit . See if it is possible to lower the pressure a bit .