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48re shuttle shift after new upgraded parts

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Transmission question

3 gen fan belt routing.

2003 48re 150k

I had the adjusting anchor break causing the 2 year old slip in band bucket to break. (best guess chain of events)

Pulled the pan and replaced
The band
The strut
The adjuster bucket
The front accumulator piston (11% increase billet but not Sonnax)
Filter

Put it back together with proper band adj

Shifts great under med-heavy acceleration.
Shuttle shifts under light load that was not there before.

Pulled pan and upgraded electronics
DNJ components GM solenoid
Rostra 50-1171

No change in shifting

Light throttle shifts to 2nd nice for two seconds then falls on its face like all of a sudden the pressure drops. Med to hard accel shifts nicely and even gives me 3rd lockup everytime which rarely ever did before.

Did the change to the billet piston cause problems?

Thanks for any input
Jody
20200311_211056[1].jpg
 
Yes, the increase in the size of the front servo messes with the **** timing. Best replacement is the TCS billet servo and cover in stock size.
 
UPDATE PROBLEM SOLVED - INFO FOR THE NEXT GUY

I messed with the band adjuster and did not have any success.
Did a lot of reading through the threads posted here and all over and kept coming back to my untrained opinion.

This is what I felt as a regular Joe.
Light throttle, slight incline so you could feel it
  1. The grab in 1st was great
  2. The shift to 2nd was great, at first
  3. After being in 2nd for a couple seconds something went wrong
  4. It wanted to get to 3rd but was getting confused and not grabbing decisively
  5. If i selected 2nd on the column (lock out 3rd) all seemed ok
  6. It felt as if the hydraulic pressure was low and not applying enough force
I'm used to a manual, if you take clamping force out it slips, this is what it felt like. It would hold at first then act like it lost pressure. If I made a more aggressive run it would hold and shift reasonably well.

I found this thread http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197701

I decided to look at mine and of coarse mine was different. I was however determined and didn't want to drop the pan yet.

I followed the cable up to the motor and found there seemed to be excessive slack in the cable. My story is that over the 17 years I've owned the truck as a 1 owner, the cable has stretched slightly.

So since I didn't have the threads on a shaft I just bent the bracket to the rear of the truck thus pulling the leaver back some. See Picture.
Screenshot_20200412-111813_Photos[1].jpg


I was looking for a way to increase the line pressure slightly without having to drop the pan. I believe this just told the trans that there was slightly more throttle but not sure, the result was perfect.
  1. The 1-2 shift is firm
  2. The 2-3 shift is slightly softer but not shuttle
  3. Each gear is held slightly longer so I'm not in 3rd at 20 mph
  4. WOT runs are perfect with a shift at about 3150 RPM
  5. Foot of the throttle coasting would downshift to 2nd very softly as slowing down (never did this before)
  6. On moderated accel gets 3rd lockup everytime (almost never did this before)
If the bracket was bent too far back would rev out too much

I'm happy with it, except now it is painfully obvious the converter is soft. About 2300 RPM on a full pull, not very efficient IMO. Thanks for reading, hope it helps someone else.
 
Last edited:
It is adjustable up at the Engine.
No need to bend a bracket.

Good to see that problem solved, TV cable tension is crucial for how the transmission shifts and works, even premature fails are very known from this!!
 
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