Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 4k gsk & 60lb springs

[CRoutley]

I'm about to fit a 4k GSK & I need to know if I need 60lb springs on the inlet valves aswell as the exhaust?? TIA

 

[GAmes]

I believe that it would be a real good idea. I installed them for my 3k GSK, and it turns out the 3k fuels up to 3500 rpm.

 

[HPetrat]

From what I have read in various instructions, you should install 60# springs on both intake and exhaust valves with a 4GSK.

I believe I have read this as well on some of the web sites that offer tech help/info such as BD, Piers, and TST some time ago.



Either way, for the cost and time involved, I would do it just as a pre-caution.



HP

 

[RHestand]

I need info. on the V-spring comp. to R&R springs W/O removing head.

What tool co. and where to buy?

Also do you need to use compressed air in cyl. to keep valve from dropping, when you R&R spring?

TIA, Ray

 

[DESL PWR]

A big YES on both intake and exhaust springs if you are running the 4K. I used the puller that geno's sells. I dont have the part number handy though. I did mine the the head still on, as long as you ensure the piston is at TDC you will not have to worry about dropping a valve.

 

[Piers]

valve spring change

If you plan on running your engine over 3400 rpm's, you should change all of the valve springs out for the HD ones.

Here are some instructions to help you.







On the Cummins B series motor you can change the valve springs on 2 cylinders at a time. The thing to remember is that # 1 & 6 are a pair, # 2 & 5 are paired & # 3 & 4 are paired.



You'll need:

KD 2078 valve spring compressor, about $25. 00 at any tool place that handles KD tools.

A 3/8 drive torque wrench & a 1/2 drive torque wrench.

13mm,15mm,18mm, 9/16", 7/8" wrenches and sockets,

. 010" & . 020" feeler gauges & a short flat screw driver [for setting valves afterwards]



Now clean the area around your valve covers, and then remove valve covers. Use your 7/8" short socket and place it in the reverse position & attach it to the alternator nut. You'll only be able to turn the motor over backwards,

but that is fine. Use the ratchet to move the engine & watch your valves, you are looking for an intake valve to be on its way up [doesn't matter what cylinder. ] Once you've spotted the valve that's moving (for example if it is # 2) watch

as it comes up. As it approaches the top, watch the exhaust valve, as soon as the exhaust valve starts to move down STOP that means this cylinder is on exhaust stroke [TDC] and its mate is on compression stroke. You can check this by feeling the rockers on the other cylinder (In this example # 5) they should both be loose.



Now remove the rocker block, loosen the small bolt first [13mm head], then the big bolt [18mm head] Use your thumb & forefinger to hold the push rods in place as you lift the rocker block off. You can now safely remove the valve springs [intake or exhaust] on that cylinder. Once you put that cylinder. back together [the big bolt gets torqued first 120ft. lbs then the little bolt 18 ft. lbs. You can now move onto its mate’s cylinder & repeat the procedure. So now you've done cylinder # 2 & 5, rotate the engine some more until you spot another intake valve coming up & the exhaust valve JUST STARTING TO MOVE DOWN STOP you're now ready to do that pair of cylinders.



A little trick that makes things easier, when you install the new valve spring into the compressor, crank it into the tool to put some preload on the spring before tightening the valve spring compressor, that'll make it a littler

easier to get the spring on the valve.



The reason for this is the KD 2078 is a short throw compressor & the new 60lb springs are a little long for it. When you do get to do # 5 & 6 cylinder..... the fun ones, that little trick will make life much easier.



Now once you've done all the cylinders, you'll want to check the valve clearances. That is always done on a cold motor, . 010" intake, . 020" exhaust. If you roll the engine over until # 1 cylinder is on compression stroke [ watch the valves on # 6 cylinder same thing, as intake comes up & exhaust JUST starts to move down STOP you are now on exhaust stroke of # 6 & compression stroke # 1 ]



So you can now set some valves. I've tried to show below how the valves are laid out in your motor. You can now set the valves that are marked with the “X”. Then roll your engine over 360 degrees [ now both valves on #1 cylinder will be tight & both valves on #6 cylinder will be loose] & set all the valves that are marked with a “@” sign.





Cylinder # Step 1 Step 2

6 Exhaust @

Intake @

5 Exhaust x

Intake @

4 Exhaust @

Intake x

3 Exhaust x

Intake @

2 Exhaust @

Intake x

1 Exhaust x

Intake x

 

[Lil' Dog]

Sounds pretty simple. Hmm...

 

[Dieseldemon]

Hey Piers How are you havent talked to you in a long time Jim Leonard

-- email address removed --

 

[Piers]

Hi Jim,

yeah, long time no talk to. How you doing? Where you parking yourself at these days? Good to hear you're still kicking & working on Cummins

 

[Dieseldemon]

Hey Piers we are in northern cal 75 miles from from Medford Oregon. Are you guys going to May Madness this year? I have put togeather a 24 valve with the P-pump on it just got it running on the stand. Good to hear from you

Jim

 

[USMCBay]

Couple of questions...



How do I know which is the intake valve?



Quote: "... crank it into the tool to put some preload on the spring before tightening the valve spring compressor... " What th' Ell does that mean?



I have my springs just haven't gotten the time to install them and would like to be as clear as possible.

 

[Lil' Dog]

Easiest way to find the intake valve is actually find the exhaust. If you look at the port for the exhaust, its at the rear of the head to that cylinder. Rear valve is exhaust, so the front valve is intake. .

It says in the write up that the spring compressor specified does not open up far enough for the new springs as they are longer than stock. therefore you need to get some clamp on the spring to get it into the compressor before tightening to install.

HTH...

J-eh

 

[USMCBay]

Right on brother... thanks.