4x4 Gear and T/C lubes

[BIGNASTY]

I have a question that I hope wont get into a battle over the Amsoil Debate, Because I think that its mostly over priced BS that they are trying to sell as being the best.

On the other hand im getting ready to do my Spring Time Service of the Axle Diff and Transfer case lube on my Toyota Taco & my SIL's New Jeep Wrangler both are 4x4 and I was hoping that I could get some rational thoughts as to anything special that can be done in this area of lubrication other than just use the recommended Lube from the factory.

If there are additives that could help, im willing to have a listen to them. Or maybe the intervals that are different, I know that some will say that im throwing out good oil but I do this ever year in all the vehicles no matter what the mileage, this is really the first year that I have had any NEWER 4x4 trucks to work with.


Thanks for your thoughts

BIG

 

[fest3er]

Pick a lube that has the following properties.

• It has a very low pour point. If it still pours (flows) at -50°F, you'll know it'll flow as needed in the temps you usually see up there in Mont. If the lube flows like cold honey at -25°F, how well will it flow at -10°F?
• It is fully synthesized and consists of very uniform molecules that provide a consistent viscosity over the life of the lube. Lubes made or synthesized from natural oil really have an 'average' viscosity; and as the lighter components evaporate over time, the lube thickens and doesn't flow as well as it needs to in order to provide and maintain a protective film of lube between surfaces.
• It contains the viscosity improvement additives needed to maintain consistent viscosity across the expected operating temperature range for the life of the lube.
• It contains the high-pressure additives needed to protect the moving/sliding surfaces during those not-so-rare times when conditions are such that metal-to-metal contact can occur.
• It contains enough anti-foam additives to last the lifetime of the lube.
• Add in the cost of additives you would add.

These are the major properties. there are others to consider.

To provide an analogy, given a choice of two 10 year old bridges to drive a gasoline tanker over, would you choose the one engineered and built to significantly exceed the specifications for the expected life of the bridge? Or would you choose the one assembled by Billy Joe Bob that barely met the specs when he built it using the least expensive components he could buy?

 

[fest3er]

Pick a lube that has the following properties.

• It has a very low pour point. If it still pours (flows) at -50°F, you'll know it'll flow as needed in the temps you usually see up there in Mont. If the lube flows like cold honey at -25°F, how well will it flow at -10°F?
• It is fully synthesized and consists of very uniform molecules that provide a consistent viscosity over the life of the lube. Lubes made or synthesized from natural oil really have an 'average' viscosity; and as the lighter components evaporate over time, the lube thickens and doesn't flow as well as it needs to in order to provide and maintain a protective film of lube between surfaces.
• It contains the viscosity improvement additives needed to maintain consistent viscosity across the expected operating temperature range for the life of the lube.
• It contains the high-pressure additives needed to protect the moving/sliding surfaces during those not-so-rare times when conditions are such that metal-to-metal contact can occur.
• It contains enough anti-foam additives to last the lifetime of the lube.
• Add in the cost of additives you would add.

These are the major properties. there are others to consider.

To provide an analogy, given a choice of two 10 year old bridges to drive a gasoline tanker over, would you choose the one engineered and built to significantly exceed the specifications for the expected life of the bridge? Or would you choose the one assembled by Billy Joe Bob that barely met the specs when he built it using the least expensive components he could buy?

 

[JR]

Most rear diffs are factory filled with full synthetic and have very long service intervals. Gotta remember your powering a light weight vehicle that does not primarily tow for a living. While I don't buy into the "lifetime" fill, I would also agree your probably throwing good oil away if doing annual changes. The only exception here is if you are fording streams where the diff is being submerged. I would at least look up the recommended viscosity and recommended service interval, I have found that OEM's don't generally steer you wrong in this aspect.

 

[BIGNASTY]

Chevron/Delo synthetic gear oil SAE 75W-90 ( I have 55 gal drum in shop )

Its what went in the Diff & TC of the Toyota, Trans is Auto and said to be factory fill/ No need to replace.

Pulled the plugs on the Diff's & TC last night and let them drain. Very little to no crud on Magnetic drain plugs, Oil color appeared, As New.

Factory fill called for Front & Rear Diff's 75-85W GL5

Factory fill called for Trans Case 75-90W GL5

Purchased new crush washers for all fill & drain plugs, no evidence of moisture contamination, Dealer said that oil choice exceeded recommended factory fill recommendations

Had a talk to my Trans/guy he said to bring the truck in and he will take care of the trans. He didn't think that the " Never Replace Oil " was a real good idea, his cost was paid in full last night with a few Beers, a Song & Dance for & with his wife, I like her more since she does the Transmission Shop Billing!! and she doesn't step on my toes dancing :-laf

Was told to change oil every 13 to 15k unless used extensively for off road and water crossings. Since the only off road its seen is the 400 yards from Hwy to House Driveway & only large puddles of water are crossed to splash pedestrians in town, that 15 K sounds good to me :-laf


Thanks for your response

BIG

PS: Jeep is still under warranty and " I WILL NOT TOUCH IT " until its warranty is done.

 

[JR]

BIG I totally agree on the lifetime fill bs. The diff's in the Mountaineer are supposed lifetime fill and the trans is rated for 150k mile service intervals. Ive elected to halve the service at 75k miles. No real data or proof to back it up but at 75k the fluid was getting dark so she went in for a service. Small price to pay for the peace of mind.

 

[BIGNASTY]

Funny about the lifetime trans fill. On the truck itself there is a (hard to find dipstick) that has a small retaining bolt to hold or keep from removing the trans dipstick with a sticker around the stick cap that says life time fluid used. To pull dipstick you have to remove the retaining bolt. ?????


Being that I bought the truck used, there was no Owners Manual. Bought a Chilton's it said that the Service Interval was 30k and again at 60k. Called a friend that has the same year and model truck his owners manual says 30K & 60K service required


Sounds like the Factory is a little confused about whether or not service is required :-laf

 

[JR]

Make sure you are reading the service intervals for the correct trans. The manual likely covers more than one transmission.

I'm sure you know that, just wanted to throw it out there.

 

[BIGNASTY]

Just back from Trans Shop for filter & fluid change.

I asked if he was going to flush the system he is against that and did just as I do when I change the Dodge 48 RE trans fluid. Instead of power flushing, he pulled the cooler return line and let the trans do the fluid exchange, add clean fluid to empty pan let the trans pump out old fluid out of the return line, add more fluid let the trans pump out old, did that until it was running clean fluid. Old fluid was so clean that it was hard to tell the difference between the old & new, his drain pan has a sight glass so he could tell the amount that had been exchanged. So have in new filter $27.00 and ALL new Trans Fluid. Closed it up and done for another 30K

All of this oil change for trans, diff's, T/C more than likely didn't have to be done, but at least now I know when it was done and what it looked like, I did buy the truck used so Peace of mind is worth it to me.

Thanks for your thoughts

BIG

 

[HHhuntitall]

With today's modern oils, it's all in the additive package added to the base oil. A good quality oil will work. Don't buy the most expensive, don't go cheap, either. Changing the oil will do it's job. It's a little pricey, but how much cheaper than an axle or engine rebuild? You can buy a lot of oil for a transmission rebuild cost....

Sounds like you did the right thing, Big.

 

[BIGNASTY]

With today's modern oils, it's all in the additive package added to the base oil. A good quality oil will work. Don't buy the most expensive, don't go cheap, either. Changing the oil will do it's job. It's a little pricey, but how much cheaper than an axle or engine rebuild? You can buy a lot of oil for a transmission rebuild cost....

Sounds like you did the right thing, Big.

Thanks HH

I think the peace of mind that it's done and I know when it was done is priceless. The fact that the other oil was still in good shape & uncontaminated indicates that all components in the drivetrain are in good shape.

Your right about the cost. When the Trans Guy was done with my early morning service we went to breakfast. I asked about the cost of a trans rebuild on the Taco it WAS VERY CHEAP INSURANCE!! to have the lubes changed.