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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 4x4 Posi Lock Newbie

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Just installed a posi lock cable to replace my frozen Vac CAD. A few questions about normal operation.



First off, when I was installing the cable on the axle, the collar that slides back and forth to lock the axle would not fully move over into the 4wd position, :confused: like the gears were just a little mis aligned, ( I could not move it with my hand).

I installed the posi lock with the collar and fork in the 2wd position hoping all would be well.



The cable works fine but it takes some doing to get it to go in and out. . going a little in reverse or turning the wheel back and forth, I tried to engage the cable while the truck was rolling and it made a grinding noise, :eek: did not try that again.



I have read other threads about it taking some getting used to, just want some feedback from others experiences.....



Thanks
 
I was thinking about one of those posi locks but i have heard so many people having trouble with them going in and out of lock up. They seem as bad as the vacume system. Cant we just slide that fork over and wedge it in place for good. So the 2 axle stubs are always connected and be done with it. Everything is turning now any way. The 3rd gen trucks are always locked up with no c. a. d ?
 
Mine works great. If the splines are damaged, then the ring won't slide easily and that needs to be fixed if you want any disconnect device to work. I engage/disengage mine by pulling the knob while moving very slowly - just enough to line up the shafts to the slip ring. I usually lock the front end once and leave it locked for the day or as long as I think I'll need 4x4 - very similar to 'living with manual locking hubs'. The poor engagement of the vac motor caused my transfer case to blow up. Apparently too much shock when engaging the front axle caused the snap ring to fracture. If I get another CAD vehicle, it's getting a posi-lok.



not affiliated..... you know the rest
 
I love my Posi-lok and would never go back to vacuum. It does take some finessing to get that cable to pull the collar over the spines, but just take it easy and while your trying to engage the collar just put the truck in gear and roll forward or backward a few inches to get the splines to line up and you should feel the collar slip over the splines through the cable.

I don't know why people have issues with it trying to engage while driving, as long as you don't pull the cable while driving it works fine. Best upgrade to my front axle yet, was stuck too many times with cracked or leaking vacuum lines, now the vacuum pump just operates the crusie control and A/C :D



Joe
 
Thanks for the input,



I have been playing around with it and I think it works fine. As mentioned, a little forward or backward roll seems to be the ticket.



A question on leaving the front end engaged, is it bad to do too much driving with the front axle locked in (excessive wear and tear)?? Doed it hurt gas mileage to run with the front axle locked in 2wd?
 
cable

I have had one on my 96 1 ton. works great, You just have to watch that last 1/4 quarter inch of engagement. Put it in 4WD and just roll slowly goes right in.
 
Just something else to consider... ...



Background: I bought a used 99 CTD a year and a half ago, knowing it had been in a front end accident.



I took it in for an alignment, and after all was said and done, I had a different D60 under the front. The axle that was in it when I bought it was bent, and slowly bending more, probably on the passenger side. Total camber was over 2 degrees. It was bent far enough that the CAD would not engage AT ALL. And according to the shop (who work on stuff generally bigger than my CTD) this bending is not uncommon under a CTD.



For more data points, my 94 Jeep Cherokee does not have a CAD front, and it's got over 235,000 miles on it. Over 120,000 with a limited slip diff in the front as well. No issues.
 
Theory only.



I was thinking about being able to engage the front axle while moving, after reading an above post. I would wager that the transfer case has the ability to mesh, otherwise even factory you could not engage while moving. SO it would seem that if you engage the tcase first (getting the driveline moving) then the axle should engage even while moving... one would think.



Is that reasonable thinking?

Does anyone do it that way?



Greg
 
According to posi-lok (I called them before I installed mine), you can use it 2 ways.

1) Engage with truck stopped or moving just slightly to engage

2) While moving engage transfer case first then engage posi-lok, just like vac system



Leaving it engaged while driving shouldn't really cause any additional significant wear as most of the axle components are already rotating. Keep in mind DCX eliminated the CAD on late 2nd gens...
 
Really getting the posi lock figured out, love it , reccomend it. So nice not to have to worry. I probably would have frozen to death last night if I still had the old VAC system.....



Anderson, tested your theory, seems to work.

Thanks
 
Anyone engage theposi lok at over 20mph?



I am installing mine soon, any good tips other than taking all the vacuum lines and throwing them in the trash? lol
 
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