4x4 right front hub assembly specs

[SDrake]

Can't make sense of hub specs on rockauto. They have two timken parts one triangle and the other square flange. I understand that part, mine is square, but the other specs do not match up with Raybestos and Moog as far as the different diameters mentioned and offset. Sure donot want to mess up the offset. I am planning on only changing the one hub. Truck only has 115000 miles or so and my 94 has gone over 400k with original hubs and also ujoints btw. So it makes sense to only replace the bad one.



I was toying with puting on one free running hub so I can have 4 wheel lo occasionally. Running with only one hub free running is probably uncharted territory so I won't do that unless I hear someone say they did that and it caused no problems.

 

[JFought]

your hub is a square flange with four bolts
the skf pt number i bought that i put in is BR930507
for an 06 1 ton

This is my second set. The look as good as the last timkin one.
Yes even the box shows a triangle flange, but it truly is square.

 

[mwilson]

STOP!!!!

The 03 takes a different bearing than the 06.

I am on the I-pad right now but when I get on the PC I will post the Timken page and the illustration.
You do want one for your 03, correct?

That would be a Timken HA590032 for an 03.

Mike.

 

[mwilson]

Here is the page from the Timken Catalog

Here is the illustration... ...

Let me know if you want cross references, but you really should put a Timken in there... .



Mike.

 

[SDrake]

Thanks mwilson. That is one of the parts in the rockauto catalog, $163. 00. Mopar4less site was down, probably not timken anyway. I get it about timken. Considered just breaking the hub down and replacing the bearings but getting lazy. Your parts prowess has beeninvaluableto me on more than one occasion and I have seen you doing it for many others. You deserve a few steak dinners. Cyber steaks just do not seem appropriate.

 

[04blackcherry]

The hub can be broke down, but doing it to replace the bearings is not likely to work, even if the bearings can be located. The two pieces that make up the hub are also the races. I pulled a hub apart and there was chunks and scouring on the races. For Timkens, the $163 is a good price.

 

[SDrake]

Thanks for the confirmations, part on the way. The axle socket I used to do ball joints on my 94 fits the 2003. So I am about to go grease monkey once again. Tempting to do ujoints but they look nice and dry with none of the redish rust that showed up on my 94.

 

[SDrake]

The timken hub sure had a quality look to it. Clean surfaces all over and nicely machined. Sometimes jobs go easy, this one did. The axle nut came off easy, the axle popped loose with a couple of hits and the hub came right out in my hand as I loosened the bolts. Glad I had shop manual for torque specs. 268 ft-lbs on the axle nut.

 

[mwilson]

The timken hub sure had a quality look to it. Clean surfaces all over and nicely machined. Sometimes jobs go easy, this one did. The axle nut came off easy, the axle popped loose with a couple of hits and the hub came right out in my hand as I loosened the bolts. Glad I had shop manual for torque specs. 268 ft-lbs on the axle nut.

Glad it went well for you. For my purposes (Towing, 75 mph speed limit, extreme cold operation, 35,000 miles + per year) the Timken bearings are the only unit bearings that hold up.

For cars or trucks they are the only brand that I trust.

Had a cheap skate spell some years back and tried Carquest blue bearings on my Caddy, they would go just about 6 months tops. Same result in a Saab that I had.



Yes, the other brands are warranteed but my time is not.



Mike.