5,000# hitch bar for 10,000# receiver?

[JyRO]

Guys, I don't have my owner's manual handy. Isn't our hitch receivers rated for 1,000 lb. tongue weight and 10,000 lb. towing capacity?



I think it is that way. And if so, wouldn't it be a bad idea to have a hitch bar (like those sold in Walmart) that is rated for 500 lb. tongue weight and 5,000 lb. towing capacity?



I went to Walmart (but would rather shop elsewhere) to get a 4" drop hitch (which I couldn't find there anyway), I wound up buying nothing. I was suprised to see the 500 / 5,000 lb ratings. There were no hitch bars with a 1,000 / 10,000 rating there. Also, there was only 3. 25" drop hitch bars & 5. 25" drop hitch bars.

_________________________________



Q1: What is our 2nd Gen. truck hitch reciever ratings?



Q2: Isn't it a bad idea to have a 500 / 5,000 lb. hitch bar? Because yes, I will be towing more than 5,000 lb.



Q3: Where would I go (Uhaul?) to find a 4" drop AND WITH a 1,000 / 10,000 lb. rated hitch bar?



TIA. Jason Oliver

 

[klenger]

Drop bars with deep drops are usually limited in their weight ratiing becasue of the leverage on the bar. You will probably need to shop at a hitch speciality shop. There are adjustable drop bars for RV's that have a higher rating.

 

[bombero]

The class 4 receivers that come with our CTD are rated for 5000 total weight with 500 tongue weight unless you use a weight distributing hitch which then increases the rating to; 10000/1000.

 

[RustyJC]

Yep, 500/5000 dead weight, but 1000/10000 weight distributing.



Rusty

 

[BV]

A1. Ditto what Rusty said.

A2. If your over 500/5000 you should use a weight distribution kit to stay within the hitch specs.

Q3. Yes you can go to UHaul but they might try to sell the WD kit. Ask for DrawTite Ultra Frame Ball Mounts 4281 or 4285



Here is a link to some other class 5 drawbars that might help you.

http://www.reesehitch.com/cl_5_drawbars.html

 

[ddutil]

Dunno about your hitches, guys, but on my 03 the factory class IV is rated 10k#/1k# and will go to 12k#/1,2k# with weight distribution. The bumper is rated only 5k#...



Get yourself a suitable ball mount like this one !



Dan

 

[bighammer]

You need an Alumistinger

 

[DPelletier]

Class IV hitches (by definition) are 500/5000 and 1000/10000 with weight distributing bars. Bombero, Rusty and BV are right. Don't worry about getting a a higher rated drawbar because your hitch is only 500/5000 anyway, if your over these limits use a weight distibuting hitch setup with your factory receiver. If you plan on going over 1000/10000, then start looking at "class V" replacement hitches.



Dave

 

[DPelletier]

I double checked to make sure my memory wasn't failing me (happen more often these days!) and to clarify, Class IV hitches are rated by the Society of Automotive Engineers for UP TO 10,000 lbs. It is necessary to use a weight distributing hitch on a Class IV to obtain the 10,000 lb rating.



Cheers

Dave

 

[ddutil]

This has been discussed in a previous 3rd gen thread. I towed 8k a few times on the factory hitch and didn't see any use for weight distributing bars. I had to check in the miror making sure the trailer was still hooked because the ride was so smooth. And I have a 'light' rig (2x4 2500). HTH! Dan

 

[DPelletier]

Dodge may rate thier "class IV" hitch at 1200/12000 WITH WEIGHT DISTIBUTING BARS, but SAE rates a class IV at 1000/10000 (again with the WD setup). Maybe the factory hitch is really a class 4. 5!

At any rate, I would advise you to use the WD bars over 500/5000.

My buddy ripped the hitch right out of the frame on his '98 GMC 3500 with a 6000 lb trailer and no WD bars on a bad washboard gravel road.

Do what you will.



Dave

 

[JyRO]

Thanks fellers...

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm taking these all into account.



The combo I'm looking at will put me right at the limit of 5,000# capacity, dunno about the tounge load, but I'm guessing it would be about 500#, due to the geometry if nothing else.



I need all you guys' advice on the drop as well. I'm trying to find the right drop amount that would put me in the most nominal range for pulling various bumper tow trailers.



The Ultra Hitch is perfect, but the $150 price tag is a bit steep, when (I think) most trailers will put at about the same height. I wonder if I could find that hitch cheaper than $150 somewhere?



This is what I'm thinking so far, you guys let me know if you think I'm wrong:



I measured to the top of the hitch receiver (the part mounted to the truck). It measured ~23. 5". This 23. 5" simulates closely where the top of the ball would sit with a zero drop hitch. I have a zero drop hitch on there now that I carried over from my previous Suburban (it sat lower), and I've only 5th wheel towed with my truck since I've owned it.



Anyway, I heard that best case condition is to have the top of the ball at about 19. 5" with no tongue load. Then adding a tounge load will drop you 1" to 1. 5" and will put you at the perfect attitude for towing. If this is true? And if so, wouldn't a 4" drop be what I should buy? Thanks.



- Jason

 

[DPelletier]

Jason,

If your around 500/5000 you'll be fine with the factory hitch and no WD bars. The Ultra Hitch looks perfect for towing many different trailers. If the $150. 00 is too steep, I suggest buying two or three drop hitches in different heights. I have four trailers and they're all different, but if I could only carry one it'd be a 3-4" drop.



hope this helps

Dave