5-speed clutch question

[Jed]

It is not my goal to start a manual transmission war What other manufacturors of clutch and assorted parts does anyone have experiance with other than southbend. My 5 speed comes out on monday for a rebuild and new clutch. ( 90,000 miles 60,000 with the wrong trans. fluid) I never knew I had a problem till I added my upgrades. 400 to 450 is the goal.

thank you

 

[amillstream]

My brother had a centerforce duel friction clutch and it didn't hold. It wasn't much better than stock. Some guys are using the new Luk clutch and last I heard were having fairly good luck from them although I believe they tend to be a tad grabby from reports, but I've heard that from southbend too. I love my ofe and wouldn't even try another but not everyone thinks like I do either. Hope this helps.

 

[Supermod56]

The South Bend is the best clutch, if you can afford it. Having said that, you do get what you pay for. The Con-O will be a direct bolt-in to your existing flywheel, if you go with the OFE, you have to change to the 13" clutch/flywheel, lotsa money there. The LUK Pro-Gold for the money is well worth it, and there are some out there that are cermetallic like the OFE, but are the smaller size. I have heard of those tearing out the center hub of the disc, not good!



Tom



2001. 5 2500 4X4 5-Spd LB QC Black. Catcher ECM, DD Stage-1's, AFE, Bully Dog 4" pipe, ATS Exhaust Manifold, Silencer Ring MIA, JAKE Brake w/shifter switch, Geno's Banjo's, 3 Autometer's on the A-Pillar, Gear Vendor's O/D, Firestone Air Bags, Redline Oil throughout.

 

[Got Smoke?]

The South Bend is the best clutch, if you can afford it. Having said that, you do get what you pay for. The Con-O will be a direct bolt-in to your existing flywheel, if you go with the OFE, you have to change to the 13" clutch/flywheel, lotsa money there. The LUK Pro-Gold for the money is well worth it, and there are some out there that are cermetallic like the OFE, but are the smaller size. I have heard of those tearing out the center hub of the disc, not good!



Tom

Peter offer's all 3 clutch's (Con O, OFE, & FE) in 12" and 13" applications. That being said, if your wanting to run upwards of 400+HP it would be advisable to upgrade to the 13" conversion. Pricey yes, but cheaper than having to replace a broken 12" on down the road! Also, if you tow more than 8K lbs South Bend mandate's that you go with the 13" clutch or they void the warrenty on your 12"



South Bend is the ONLY clutch out there for me! Oo.

 

[Supermod56]

I read on here somewhere they quit doing the smaller clutch in the OFE due to the hub issue, I dunno??? Interesting info on the weight/warranty thing Hmmm. And you are right, I have torn the center out of a smaller clutch before, too much power and not enough clutch! Very bad situation!!



Tom

 

[CMAC]

Who sells the EEP clutch's ??? I need to find out what the differences are for those clutch's.....



Thanx in advance

 

[CaseySmith]

Check out Hasiley's HMRs Dual Disks. http://www.haisleymachine.com/clutches.htm

I am going to upgrade to the street puller when mine finally goes, it won't hold past thrid gear anymore without getting really hot

 

[PKirby]

Hays has a new Super Truck clutch but thier tech dept. could not tell me how much torque it would handle so buying one may be risky. Years ago I had a Hays Street Clutch in a 427 Chevelle that handled years of abuse and was as good after 100k miles as new. Has anyone tried the Hays on thier truck?

 

[Got Smoke?]

Hays has a new Super Truck clutch but thier tech dept. could not tell me how much torque it would handle so buying one may be risky. Years ago I had a Hays Street Clutch in a 427 Chevelle that handled years of abuse and was as good after 100k miles as new. Has anyone tried the Hays on thier truck?

Without a written guarantee of warrenty I wouldn't buy it. I have a close friend who bought a Dual Friction Centerjunk and it started slipped after a month of install and Centerjunk said tough! :-{}

 

[Neibe]

I have a SBC Rally clutch and I talked to Peter and he assured me that it would hold up to our infrequent towing of our 10,000 fifth wheel.

i know on the website it says it won't hold but I talked to Peter direct as I was putting in a clutch and just wanted it to be right. I told him the most I would go to is a #11 280/680 plate and he said that would be fine.

 

[Jed]

Thank you to all who posted replies. The end result is Luk, 6spd flywheel 13" conversion our vender says good to 1000 lbs it is a very nice package. I am now waiting for my shorter driveshaft for GV unit I will post when on the road and comment on how I like the clutch conversion.

 

[Jed]

Okay this thread is back from the dead and so is my Luk clutch, after only about 40,000 miles. Started to slip on the way to work this week, pulled it out tonite and the verdict is . 045 wear on the flywheel and . 065 on the pressure plate, the clutch disk itself is barely worn. This does not seem at all right. WTF I have never towed anything in this truck and all I have on the back is a shell. I drive a lot in traffic and I dont believe I am hard on my clutch. Stock cluth looked at least 50 % after 90,000.

Clutch only slipped a couple of times getting on the freeway, not heavy acceleration maybe 25lbs of boost.

Anyone have any similar experiances?

and yes I will be trying a southbend next anyone have any sugestions? I drive in traffic a lot but I dont mind a stiff clutch I just want it to hold. I have allready converted to a 13" flywheel

 

[CSchafer]

I have the FE, holds good but is pretty grabby. Heard alot of good things about the OFE though might want to go that route.

 

[redram]

I have the FE, holds good but is pretty grabby. Heard alot of good things about the OFE though might want to go that route.

McCloud (sp?) is well respected in the drag racing and heavy duty market.



No offense, but sounds like you are fairly hard on a clutch or if you are not, your setup is hard on the clutch due to the 'city driving' and high torque mods. It might be that due to gearing, tire size, and the slipping of the clutch to deal with stop n go traffic that you will get wear on the cltuch.



I have a stock truck and have over 200,000 and drive in Houston stop n go traffic and I bet my clutch does not have that kind of wear - so your wear is due to the truck performance, the driving conditions, and yes, the way you drive it.



Be realistic and see if there is anything that you can do to change the way you let out the clutch. For example, if you drive with your foot on the clutch pedal -even after releasing the cltuch - you're potentially causing wear on the components.

 

[Rattler]

I went through the clutch change deal the other week. I too was wondering what clutch to install. I ended up going with an OFE, even though i did not need that much hold power yet, but i am just planning for the next set of bombs. After changing the setup myself i would make da** sure that you install enough clutch because that job sucks. I was very surprised with the stock setup, after almost 160k the stock disk was hardly worn. If i had not installed the Juice i believe i could have gotten another 100k easy out of it. It was just that when i got on it very hard it would slip baddly and even smoke if i didn't let off. Sorry to ramble, Randy

 

[Jed]

McCloud (sp?) is well respected in the drag racing and heavy duty market.



No offense, but sounds like you are fairly hard on a clutch or if you are not, your setup is hard on the clutch due to the 'city driving' and high torque mods. It might be that due to gearing, tire size, and the slipping of the clutch to deal with stop n go traffic that you will get wear on the cltuch.



I have a stock truck and have over 200,000 and drive in Houston stop n go traffic and I bet my clutch does not have that kind of wear - so your wear is due to the truck performance, the driving conditions, and yes, the way you drive it.



Be realistic and see if there is anything that you can do to change the way you let out the clutch. For example, if you drive with your foot on the clutch pedal -even after releasing the cltuch - you're potentially causing wear on the components.

Point taken red ram. I am originally from Houston so I know the score and I drive in similar traffic. I so not ride my clutch and have always had a manuel transmission so I do know how to drive it. I do understand that with my torque I will be hard on clutches, but to have that much flywheel wear and pressure plate wear seems to be unusual especially with no indications of heat on either the pressure plate or flywheel especially will only 40,000 miles.

I guess my question is does this seem normal (but then what is normal)?

I do want to be realistic but short of removing my cam, turbo, injectors and box what clutch will give me more life than 40,000.

By the way I do not just drive in traffic half of those miles are highway.

This amount of wear seems abnormal.

 

[Tomeygun]

I have about 40k miles on my 13inch OFE southbend... And the last 15k at 600hp. Other than the 3rd gear sidestep it has held all I have threw at it. .



Is it a fluke? I think so, I dont think it was dsigned to hold 600hp, but it does. Just more reason to stick with SBC when the DD comes around



(note I do not sled pull, and when I say "it holds", I mean when I am rolling in 5th and 1000rpms, and floor it - It does not slip at all when the turbo lights and beyond)