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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 5 speed repair recommendations

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission oil change gone bad

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) By-pass filter return line?

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A week ago, I had my rig in to the dealer for some warranty work. While I was there, I asked them to check out the problem of the hard shifting. The head mech. drove it ,and agreed that it isn't right. Anyway they are going to order parts,(syncros) I think. And then call me to set up an appointment.

What I need to know from you guys that have much more experience in this matter, than I have, is, what else should I be thinking about checking, while the transmission is out?I assume that I should be changing the throwout bearing, and checking the 5th gear nut. But , what about the clutch? I assume that it is not covered under warranty. But, having heard from the TDR that the factory clutch is not the best in the world, what is recommended? And, where is there a place in N. D. that I could get a South Bend, or some other aftermarket clutch. Or should I order one, from somewhere else, and have it on hand? Any suggestions, would be greatly appreciated.

I have 60,000 miles on the rig to date.
 
I imagine it would save you money and give you a better product to send your trans to Standard Trans. 800-std-tran as a core and get their rebuilt unit. Have the dealer just put it in instead of paying them for the large amount of time they will charge to work on yours and reuse that crummy stock mainshaft. The Std trans unit will come with the fully splined mainshaft and is ready to go except for oil. Std can also send the oil for about 2/3 the price of the dealer.



Yes it is a good time to upgrade the clutch. Why not call "your favorite vendors" and get recommendations for your power level.



Whether or not you change the clutch, definitely change the pilot bearing. They can do it with the bell housing still installed,using a long slide hammer puller with two claws/fingers on it.
 
Standard trans.

Thanx for the tips, Joe. The trans work is covered under my extended warranty. So I thought that I would let them do their thing, and get another 60,000 mi. out of it. But maybe it would be in my best interest to call Standard Trans. and get a fully splined main-shaft, and have them ( the dealer) put it in with the other parts that they would be putting in. Maybe that the only expense that I would have to swallow, would be the cost of the shaft. What do you think:cool: .

As far as the pilot bearing, which as per your suggestion, I will definitely replace. Even though it is probably considered a normal wear item, and is not covered under any warranty.

Also, the clutch is not covered either, but I wouldn't want to put the old one back in if it has signs of abnormal wear. So I would have to cover that cost also.

But I don't have a favorite parts place, as I don't buy enough parts, as a rule, to know where to shop. Maybe you fellows at TST, can help, suppose? I just wish that I could see into the future, and see if I was to win that South Bend giveaway on TDROo. I could then hold off till the drawing to have the work done:D :D :D
 
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For what it's worth....

What dealer is doing the work? One of the few places (unless backed up by warrenty) I would trust is Inland Truck Parts, Bismarck ND. Many smaller dealers send there transmission, gear box work to them (warrenty included). They have rebuilt NVG4500 with the fully splined mainshaft on hand. They also have all the hard parts (inlcuding fully splined main shaft) instock. Unless you really have a good relation with your dealer I can see problems with then using someone else's parts if problems develop down the road. I would still take advantage of the warrenty work but keep it clean (no extra stuff that they use to get out of future repairs), and make sure you are total satisfied before your warrenty is up.



If you are running pretty stock power and drive decent you can expect well over 100K out of your stock clutch. I got 150K trouble free servive out of my 96. Call South Bend and get th wear specs for your clutch. When the transmission is out have them pull the clutch and measure it. if it looks fine, plate looks fine and has life left why waste good working parts. On my 2001 HO 6sp, that had transmission work the clutch was 95% shot at 30K (not sure I can expain this other then it is pulled very hard with lots of EBraking). We decided to leave the old clutch in as we really doudted the transmission rebuild would last 10K miles. The truck has 55K on it and still ****s fine.



While there is nothing magical with a 4500 for someone who looks at them every day, I would really have concerns with someone that sees the inside of one once or twice a year.



Definatly do the pilot bushing. Mine was a mess at 150K.



Unless you are using a shop (that carries performance parts) to do the install I would order what ever part you want from the many very good suppliers found on this site. Read the "at a boys" for some good recomendations.



Mikes Truck in Northwood ND specializes in 3/4T and 1T diesel repair and performace improvements exclusively. I would trust them to do driveline work, clutch installs, etc. But he cannot do your Dodge warrenty work!!!



jjw

ND
 
Warranty repairs

JJW ND; The dealer doing the work on the trans. is Minot Chrysler . I don't know how the new mech. , that is going to be doing the work , is. But the Mech. that I feel knows his stuff, has been promoted to shop Foreman. (for lack of a better word). And he oversees the projects. I guess that since I have approx. 1 year, and 40000 miles left on my warranty, I should know by then if their work is going to be satisfactory. I plan to be putting a lot of miles on the rig this year. So I think it'll be put to the test.

Also, I have done business with ITP. and have only good things to say about them. They sure seam to keep things on a professional level.

Thanx for all the tips.
 
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