Attention: TDR Forum Junkies Hi all,
I brought my 99 Turbo Diesel 2500, extended cab / bed into Dodge yesterday with some brake pull problems, wandering steering and transmission difficulties. Here is what happened, hopeully someone can tell me if I am getting jerked around.
After a days work and a lot of BS from the dealership, including 25 different reasons they could not put my heavy /long truck on the lift, they have come up with a solution to each of my problems, listed below.
Problem 1: Gear hunt. The tachometer would show RPMs shooting up and down at different speeds, usually above 40mph, almost like the truck was not finding a gear it could stay in. It's RPMs were off by about 200 at 70mph (seemed to be averaging about 2200-2300 RPMS at 70mph, sometimes going to it's normal mark of about 2000RPM, but not staying there.
Solution: The team leader at Chrysler said it had something to do with the "manual lever" (what is that? I asked for a detailed explanation from the mechanic to be written down hopefully I will find out tomorrow) causing it to miss it's mark when I got on the throttle. That seems suspect.
Problem 2: Brake pull. I had a feeling this one would be a costly problem. My truck would pull to the right when I got on the brake. It wasn't bad and could be controlled, but I dont want to have my truck suffering when it doesn't need to.
Solution: It appears the brake pads, particularly on the right hand side were pretty far gone. (theres only 43. 5k on the truck). They said the rotors were warped and they had to send them off to another shop to resurface them at about $35 per rotor, because their equipment was not working perfectly. They quoted me $500 to resurface the roters and replace the brake pads. This seems a little high dont you think? The majority of this work is being quoted as labor because they said they have to take off the entire wheel assembly to access the pads and rotor.
They also quoted me for new shocks at about $100 a pop w/ another $200 for labor.
Problem 3: Steering wander / leaky rear diff seal.
Solution: They suggested I go get new tires and get it alligned, this should cure what ails you. They said keep an eye on the diff seal, as long as it isn't dripping, it isn't a problem.
Total bill for service, about $1000.
Any ideas, I dont particularly trust this dealer and would like a little feedback if possible on there quotes / solutions.
Thanks!
-Adam
I brought my 99 Turbo Diesel 2500, extended cab / bed into Dodge yesterday with some brake pull problems, wandering steering and transmission difficulties. Here is what happened, hopeully someone can tell me if I am getting jerked around.
After a days work and a lot of BS from the dealership, including 25 different reasons they could not put my heavy /long truck on the lift, they have come up with a solution to each of my problems, listed below.
Problem 1: Gear hunt. The tachometer would show RPMs shooting up and down at different speeds, usually above 40mph, almost like the truck was not finding a gear it could stay in. It's RPMs were off by about 200 at 70mph (seemed to be averaging about 2200-2300 RPMS at 70mph, sometimes going to it's normal mark of about 2000RPM, but not staying there.
Solution: The team leader at Chrysler said it had something to do with the "manual lever" (what is that? I asked for a detailed explanation from the mechanic to be written down hopefully I will find out tomorrow) causing it to miss it's mark when I got on the throttle. That seems suspect.
Problem 2: Brake pull. I had a feeling this one would be a costly problem. My truck would pull to the right when I got on the brake. It wasn't bad and could be controlled, but I dont want to have my truck suffering when it doesn't need to.
Solution: It appears the brake pads, particularly on the right hand side were pretty far gone. (theres only 43. 5k on the truck). They said the rotors were warped and they had to send them off to another shop to resurface them at about $35 per rotor, because their equipment was not working perfectly. They quoted me $500 to resurface the roters and replace the brake pads. This seems a little high dont you think? The majority of this work is being quoted as labor because they said they have to take off the entire wheel assembly to access the pads and rotor.
They also quoted me for new shocks at about $100 a pop w/ another $200 for labor.
Problem 3: Steering wander / leaky rear diff seal.
Solution: They suggested I go get new tires and get it alligned, this should cure what ails you. They said keep an eye on the diff seal, as long as it isn't dripping, it isn't a problem.
Total bill for service, about $1000.
Any ideas, I dont particularly trust this dealer and would like a little feedback if possible on there quotes / solutions.
Thanks!
-Adam
and I had to pick up my jaw off his desk when he told me the Astronomical number he wanted me to pay. After a few rounds with that, he reprinted out the contract. . and I was just to sign at the bottom... So I thought I better start reading all the charges and BS... So what's this "Dealer Care" charge here??
So after a few rounds we settled the paper work and I drove the new ride home. . After I got home we scoped out the truck and found a few scratchs and a little dent and a stain in the head liner. (Looked like someones dirt hand. . ) So I called up the salesman and he said bring it in. . 
So off to see the person not too high on my list... He informs be that we need to change my contract... (me hoping that he found a better intrest rate. . was like, Lets see. . ) So he pulls out this sheet about rebates and junk. . Tells me that they gave me the Farm Bureau Discount, and I am not a Farm Bureau so they can not give me that money. I told him that was not my problem. . This is the price that I agreed to... . 
), and recommend checking with the Better Business Bureau (
