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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 500hp transmission ?'s

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) To o-ring of Fire ring Head

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What will it take component wise to hold 500hp (under 4000rpm) without breaking/failing??

I'm not interested in manufacturers yet so hold them. Just the components for now. Input and output shafts are my bigger concern.

Truck probably won't see 500hp so it's my "just in case" power level. :-laf



What needs modified, updated and replaced? I'm getting ballpark figures together for tax time. . That should give me plenty of time for making the call on who to buy from.



Again, What parts will it take?

Thank you all for your thoughts.
 
On my buddy's 550 horse 24v we put in a transmission with input and out put shafts, different bands and clutches, a converter, towing valve body, and deep trans pan. It has held up fine so far, I think about 50k on it now. I don't think that the bands and clutches are a must, but I would do the input and output shafts. His transmission was already manufactured, we didn't install everything just ordered it that way and it was about 7500 bucks as I recall. So hope fully that should be some food for thought.



Sean.
 
Recently we broke an output shaft in a 96 12V, making in the low 400's for hp. It broke during a 4-wheel launch. I was a stock shaft, not the billet. He replaced it with a stock shaft, and is using it as a fuse. He'd rather break the shaft than the x-case. ;)

other than that, it has the convertor, valve body, deep pan, and a general rebuild with good parts.

--Jeff
 
Parts you will need:

*Torque converter

*Upgraded valve body

*Upgraded clutch packs

*Billet input shaft



I wouldn't worry about a billet intermediate shaft and billet output shaft right now. The output shaft is expensive and requires machining of your transfer case. Few people actually break the intermediate shaft from what I've heard. You can always upgrade the rest of the shafts later anyway. I would probably go with a billet direct drive drum if the company you go with offers one. If you have any other questions or want my opinion on companies, etc. shoot me a PM.
 
I agree about the intermediate. . In the year i've been on here, i've only seen very few counts of needing the billet intermediate and output.



In this case. . how high a hp rating can I go without the shafts being upgraded? 500hp has been my goal since buying this truck. My plans were to do the general rebuild with clutch updates, street/race style VB and a triple disc (this being the largest single investment) I do have some assetts that can be let go to fund the input shaft and drum but...



My goal is enough power to run a "box only" truck... I can handle being beat by a 12valve of any build but I can't take these young guys that mom and dad bought a truck for and it can make mine look bad with very little done to it. Just a personal goal.



Getting it to the ground is the key.

Thank you for your replys. Any others guys?!?!
 
biggy238 said:
I agree about the intermediate. . In the year i've been on here, i've only seen very few counts of needing the billet intermediate and output.



In this case. . how high a hp rating can I go without the shafts being upgraded? 500hp has been my goal since buying this truck. My plans were to do the general rebuild with clutch updates, street/race style VB and a triple disc (this being the largest single investment) I do have some assetts that can be let go to fund the input shaft and drum but...



My goal is enough power to run a "box only" truck... I can handle being beat by a 12valve of any build but I can't take these young guys that mom and dad bought a truck for and it can make mine look bad with very little done to it. Just a personal goal.



Getting it to the ground is the key.

Thank you for your replys. Any others guys?!?!



Replied to your PM. As far as 500 hp, I would go with the billet input. As far as how far to go on stock shafts, I honestly don't know. But I think once you get in the 400-500 hp range on stock shafts, you are pushing your luck.
 
I would DEFINATLY replace the intermediate shaft with a Billet unit if you are doing a Billet input. Why? Cause if the intermediate lets go, You just need to buy a whole new transmission. Nothing inside is left and from what I understand I can take the case with it too! Very ugly! As far as what is "required" for a trans to hold 500hp plus..... It depends on who you talk to.



You said hold the companies... . so... . Each has their own. Some will tell you that you "Gotta" have this or that. What you are really dealing with is clamping/holding force. A GOOD rebuild with a Good company, with Quality parts, you should be able to control the fluid flow properly without excessive leakage. Company X will say you HAVE to machine this and use this part cause there is a tighter tollerance. Sure makes perfect sense..... do you Really need it? Company Y can make the same transmission hold without the machining and parts. Do you want that?



The biggist part of the transmission wars that you read on here are things like that. Some people believe that you REALLY gotta have those special parts. Others don't. Others have proven to some people that you can make the stock inturnals hold.



If you want a Bullet proof 500hp transmission... . research... Talk/PM people with each transmission..... Ride in a truck with each transmission if you can..... call around... Get info from ALL the companies... ... Get Prices from all of them..... THEN make your decision.



My . 02

Josh
 
Hey Biggy,



your are not far from me. i am making close to 500, i will be over soon with some more tweaking. anyway, i built my DTT myself and i am really pleased with it. you are welcome to ride up and drive it if you like, see what you think.



Dave.
 
Some of the top name diesel drag vehicles on this board... . and many more from other boards.



As was mentioned before, their all good. Talk with the owners/workers and see who you would like to give your money to.



Good Luck

Curtis
 
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