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5'er Towing & Weight

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We have recently purchased a 2002 clubcab 2500, 3. 54, auto. No modifications... . yet.



The plan is to pull a fifth wheel around the country for about a year. However, the ones that we like are about thirty feet long and have a GVWR of between 12 and 13,000 pounds, which is substantially more than what is recommended by DC.



Would like to hear from others about their towing experiences with this much weight and a stock truck.
 
We just completed 12. 5K miles ( 5 months) from LA to Brownsville TX, Charleston SC, Nashville TN, I-40 to Phoenix, Mt. Shasta,CA, Rte 20 to Clear Lake and Rte 101 and back to LA. We tried to stay on the interstates through the rockies as we climbed at 28(slowest) mph on up grades. The grapevine(north of LA on I-5) at 42 mph. Our modifications were air bags ( Camping World), 60 gal Aero Tank(Corona, Ca), And modified transmission (Dunrite Converters ElMonte, Ca. ) The transmission slowed me when going downhill and worked VERY effeciently. When we needed to go to out of the way places, we took day trips. We tow heavy but drive very sensible and do not create problems. Whatever you purchase, have a good time.





'98. 5 2500 QC,Auto, 3:54. Engine is bone stock as a retiree, I don't have to go fast. (6400 Lbs. )





'01 Alpenlite 32 RL. Double Slide (14,000 Lbs. )
 
Originally posted by plntmgr

modified transmission (Dunrite Converters ElMonte, Ca. ) The transmission slowed me when going downhill and worked VERY effeciently.

'98. 5 2500 QC,Auto, 3:54. Engine is bone stock as a retiree, I don't have to go fast. (6400 Lbs. )

'01 Alpenlite 32 RL. Double Slide (14,000 Lbs. )

yo, plntmgr, what transmission mod's did you have done? I am looking a new rig that is almost exactly the same weight as yours. How may miles do you have on your truck? Any problems due to "towing heavy" ?

thanks for your experience. :)
 
I hate to put a damper on your parade but let me relate my story about towing with a AUTO. The first Dodge that i owned was a 98 4X4 12 valve automatic. I bought this truck used and it had about 30,000 easy miles on it, it was unmodified. I also have a Cedar Creek 34 ft 5er that weighs empty 10,400 lbs. Last year my wife and I where on vacation in Montana and S. Dakota. We where on our way from Lemmon S. D. to Rapid City a trip of about 150 miles, this trip ( short trip) took us over 7 hours. We where fighting a head wind in hilly terrian, the truck never got out of third gear all day long. When we got to Rapid City and on our way to an R. V. park the transmission let go, and I do mean let go. Transmission fluid everywhere and a lot of sordid parts all over the road. I am sure that what happened was I overheated the transmission. the load I was pulling was just too much for an Auto Trans. As luck would have it there was a Dodge dealer in Rapid City that treated us very good. I went into that dealership with a 98 Blue 3500 4X4 Automatic that that I had only owned for six weeks. I left $40,000 lighter in a 2001. 5 Red 3500 4X4 six speed HO. This six speed truck is all I ever dreamed of. It will pull any thing I put behind it. Where my 98 strugled badly with the 5er the 2001. 5 laughs at this same load. I think that the Automatics can be made to work with the bigger 5er's, but you will need to spend some money on that trans. There are severeal Auto Trans guy's that advertise here on the TDR, give one of them a call and take there advice. Good Luck Gunny
 
I tow about 8500# 5ver (31' Dutchmen Classic) and don't have any problems. It was a bit sluggish though! So I kicked in the dupa w/ an edge comp. That works out quite well. Also, the DD trans pan keeps the temps cool. I pulled the same 5ver w/ a Y2K 2500 V10, and more or less killed the trans & rear end on it, so I can see where gunny's coming from on his experience. Just don't pick some camper you don't really like to accommodate the truck! It'll pull it, you may just need to BOMB it a bit... ! :D
 
You are aware, I assume, that a 13,000 lb 5ver is going to put you WAY over a 2500's GVWR. We tow a 13,500 lb 36' 5ver and are almost at our 3500's GVWR (10,380 actual GVW versus 10,500 GVWR) and GCWR (21,180 actual GCW versus 21,500 GCWR).



Rusty
 
Here is my take on the subject for what it is worth.



First I would remain within the weight limitations imposed by both the trailer manufacturer and DC. If you end up in an accident and get sued you will be on far firmer ground. Second, in my opinion the stock transmission is not up to the task of towing even the recommended weight rating. My brother in law just spend over $3K overhauling his transmission after only 50,000 miles and his trailer only weight 8,000 pounds. I tried to talk him into a manual when he bought it but he would not listen.



I have no experience in terms of the effect on transmission life some of the mods have but you may want to check them out. Good luck.



Casey
 
My 2¢,

We tow a 5th wheel that weighs 11,000 pounds loaded with our supplies. (dry weight = 8000 per manufacturer). We use a 99 2500 with auto and 4. 10 gearing.

First, get some guages; transmission temp an absolute must. I measure before the cooler and in the pan both. Also, EGT's & Boost.

Second, be prepared for some modifications to your truck. I installed an e-brake before I tackled the mountains, I am glad I did. In order for the e-brake to work well I had a BD AutoLoc and PresssureLoc installed. I found that the performance (against headwins & up mountains) was much improved with an early model VA which I still use. I then found that transmission heat was a problem at about 48K miles due to Troque Convertor slippage. This was remedied with an ATS TC, valve body & controller lock up.

The truck tows great.

I would also suggest that you rethink either the intended 5th wheel weight or reconsider your tow vehicle. Exceeding the GCWR will leed to premature parts failure and significant additional expenses.
 
Towing..........

I gotta tell ya, Gunny's on the mark on this one. I traded up a 97' 3500 Dually with an auto trans, to a 01' 2500 with the HO and backed it with the six speed and a 4. 10 rear end. The results? LOOK OUT LADIES, PULL THEM PHERDS OUTTA MY WAY!!!! Really, the difference was :--) and thats no Joke!!!! Sarge
 
The auto's are fine...

If you don't mind paying, what, an extra $850 - $950 for the auto transmission option, over the cost for the manual, and then adding $3,000 or $4,000 for auto transmission upgrades to keep it from puking its guts out. Go for the auto! :rolleyes:



Really - for towing heavy, there's no substitute for a manual transmission. Even if you can't drive it that well and slip it too much, buying a new clutch is cheaper than replacing or upgrading an auto. Plus, you get better fuel economy and more power to the ground with a manual. With a manual, how can you go wrong? :)



- JyRO
 
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