5th wheel clearance-

[Matt400]

Getting frustrated here. .

Some background, the springs on the RV come from the factory on top of the axles already. I am running 295/70 tires but have the rear OEM blocks removed so bed height is the same as 265 tires and oem blocks.



Here is what I have done. .

Stock setting- leaf springs in the 1st shackle hole, hitch pin in the middle position

I had 5. 5" bed clearance and some light rubbing/interference with the top of the bed. The RV sets lower in the back. First step up is 10. 5" with the others at 9" so pretty comfortable.



Moved leaf springs to the 2nd shackle notch, added air bags to the truck

This helped level the trailer attitude and raised the step entry 1. 5".

If I left the bags at 5psi it towed pretty level but much more stable at 30 psi which puts the trailer down in the back again and also caused even more interference with the bed top which I attributed to the air bags during articulation.



Moved the hitch pin down 2"

This caused an even more un-level attitude placing added weight on the rear axle, which I don't like especially with a motorcycle rack on the back + any air in the bags and it really is slanted.

With that 2" I gained 1" more clearance at the tailgate and 2. 5" at the camper cap so 6. 5" & 8" vs the original 5. 5"

Bed rail interference was gone but the trailer sets wrong and I don't like the extra height of the step.



Went full circle, moved it all back to stock, made sure to air down bags when articulating

I was hoping for minor smudges but the bed top is dinged in a few spots #@$%!, not deep but enough to be disappointed with it all.



Ideas-

* Flat bed. . added expense and they look out of place to me.

* Cut my bed down. . seen it done nicely but lots of work to make it look right along with added expense.



With a 2wd GM I bet this would be a non issue but I would rather have a dented 4x4 Dodge []

Maneuvering around hilly areas is where I get into trouble.

Right now the small dings are livable but I don't want more or a deeper one or worse yet damage to the RV.



Lowering the hitch pin 2" again AND installing lift blocks between the axle & spring would get it level but that first step would be high + dunno how safe blocks would be with heavy braking at 14000 lbs.



Any ideas out there??

 

[nunya]

I installed a 2" leveling kit on the front end and air bags, now sits level. Keep in mind this is a DRW

 

[EricBu12]

Put 2" Blocks with longer U-Bolts on the trailer and raise the pin a little to level it. or raise the Hitch bolts on the 5th wheel itself. . I did this and it works good. Yes it does raise the trailer a bit. . I just made a step out of 2x4's and covered it with outdoor carpet. . My Toyhauler is 15K gross and no problem on hard stops or going off-road to get to staging areas

Also to help with articulation of the truck, get a Airbag on the pin like the 5th airborne... Fifthairborne- - Premium fifth-wheel air-ride coupler . . If you have a shortbed, get the combo fifth-airborne/sidewinder

There are 2 adjustments on the pin now instead of one.

 

[Matt400]

Put 2" Blocks with longer U-Bolts on the trailer

As much as I don't want the RV higher its looking like what I must do. An additional step like you made is good.

Also to help with articulation of the truck, get a Airbag on the pin like the 5th airborne... Fifthairborne- - Premium fifth-wheel air-ride coupler . . If you have a shortbed, get the combo fifth-airborne/sidewinder



There are 2 adjustments on the pin now instead of one.

I kinda wish I would have gone that route. I am using the Pullrite auto slider and the RV came with a Rota-Flex pdf pin box. They seem to work well though but it would be nice to be able to hook & unhook at more extreme angles that the sidewinder allows.

 

[duckcarvr]

matt when i got my dodge the rearend was really up in the air. it had a 5-6" lift block on it so i got a 2" to replace it and new u bolts. . that lowered it a lot but still too high so i took the trailer to an off road shop and put 2" blocks on the trailer. works great very level. hope this helps. robert

 

[CUMMINZ]

Exactly what are your goals? More room between the RV and truck bed sides?

 

[icman95]

My truck sits way up at the back too, and no lift kit, just factory springs. When I first bought my 5er they had me hook up and measured the clearance between the camper and bed rail. I had no idea that it was an issue, but they told me it needed at leat 6 inches. It was a bit less than that so we unhooked and they adjusted the fifth wheel itself. Apparently there is a way to move the head up higher to account for this. I"m not sure if every model does this, though. I'm using the Reese Signature Series 18k.



Good luck.

 

[daytripper63]

Best thing I did on mine to solve the issue of not enough clearance was to install a 2" leveling kit to the front of my truck.

As the front comes up to level it lowers the back corners of the bed since pivot point is the rear axle

 

[JField]

5th Wheel height

You can have the spring hangers where they are attached to the bottom of the trailer frame rails cut off, essentially removing the running gear from the bottom of the trailer. Then have your welding shop take a length of rectangular tubing

(1/4 x2x4) or 1/4 x 2 x 5) and weld it "on edge" to the bottom of the trailer frame. Then, re-weld the running gear to the bottom of this length of rectangular tubing. This will raise the trailer. Between this modification and adjusting your hitch and pin box, you will get your 5 to 6 inches of clearance you need.

I made this modification on my 2001 Holiday Rambler Alumascape and it has worked well for me for over 25,000 miles of towing. I would rather modify the trailer and leave the truck suspension stock. Just my own personal preference.

This gives you another option.

Good Luck

 

[Matt400]

Exactly what are your goals? More room between the RV and truck bed sides?

Yes, but didn't really want to have a big step up into the RV though it looks like its gonna have to be.

 

[Matt400]

Been doing some measuring again along with coming to terms on a compromise.



To fix my RV to truck bed rail clearance I will need to drop the pin back down 2". Then using the lower shackle bolt hole on the RV I will get 1. 5" lift but need another 2" to level it out & spread the weight on the axles evenly so 2" blocks between the axles and spring pads should work as long as I don't get any of this!!



The down side is having the first step 13" off the ground so I will have to make up a pad to place under the step.



The dings in my bed rail can easily be covered with line-X at this point and I already have the rest of the bed done that way anyway.



Now just have to find 1-3/4" W x 2" H x 4" L lift blocks that would have the necessary hole and alignment stud so it all stays secure. Longer U bolts is easy.

 

[duckcarvr]

Hi Matt when i raised my trailer the first step was also high. i took off the three step and put on a four step. it was not that much money. when i wanted to raise my 5er i went two rv shops and they would not put in a block as i wanted, said it was too dangerous. i got three bids for new hangers 12-13 and $1800. in my opinion the hangers are a weak spot i hit a pot hole in Ca and broke one. to make longer hangers they will have to be extra stong. i took my rig to a truck off road shop and talked to them about the block. they said no problem we put them on trucks all the time with no problems. if it would stand up to the torque of a truck a trailer would be no problem. they ordered the blocks from a machine shop,drilled and taped and put on new u-bolts for $383. they would know how high you could go safely. mine is level and tows great. i see no difference robert

 

[CUMMINZ]

I would not be worried with the step height. You can remedy that with a step on the ground.



#ad

 

[CUMMINZ]

The older we get we are considering this porch for our trips. It is a real safety issue with the grand kids in and out.



#ad

 

[CDonaldson]

I added a 6" I-beam to my RV's frame, installed new spring brackets, flipped the axle under the springs, bought a new step for the RV. The stock step was a single step, now I have a double step. You can even buy a triple step.



I chose to mod the trailer to fit the truck. Of course, I have 35" tires, leveling kit, and 4x4, so my truck bed height is really tall vrs the stock height, but modifying the trailer is the better route to go even when stock. A new set of steps is right at 100 bucks. A set of blocks and new U's is not that expensive either.



CD

 

[Matt400]

The older we get we are considering this porch for our trips.

Thats pretty cool for longer stays, wonder how much trouble it is to set up?



I just realised changing the spring shackle mounting rotates the axle because the center shackle has no extra hole. This will mess with the camber & toe setting.

 

[JField]

The problems you are seeing are all caused buy the separation of the axle from the springs using blocks and longer U bolts. If you simply cut the hangers that hold the leaf springs to the bottom of the trailer frame, and insert a piece of square or rectangular tubing the size equal to the needed hight increase, you have solved your problem without further modification. Be sure you have a good welder who will weld the hangers to the tubing and the tubing to thr frame.

 

[Matt400]

I don't know why I missed this problem.



On my RV there are 2 holes to choose from for each of the 4 outer spring pads but not in the center where the Equa-Flex joint is.

This pic shows no adjustment holes at all but is similar in configuration.

Moving the leafs to the lower mount on only the outer spring pads rotates the axle when it is not also moved down in the center by the same amount.

The trouble with rotating axles is it changes the toe and camber setting in addition gives less lift.



I don't understand why the mfg. would give adjustment in only the ends and not the center?

What I need is a bracket that would fit into or over the center mount with a new mounting point 2" lower. That would match up with the lower adjustment holes in the outer spring pads.



Cutting all 6 pads off & welding in spacers is one fix but sounds expensive contracting with a certified welder when I could install an extension bracket (if there is such a thing) in the center and then just use the lower adjustment holes in the end spring pads.

 

[HBarlow]

You can have the spring hangers where they are attached to the bottom of the trailer frame rails cut off, essentially removing the running gear from the bottom of the trailer. Then have your welding shop take a length of rectangular tubing

(1/4 x2x4) or 1/4 x 2 x 5) and weld it "on edge" to the bottom of the trailer frame. Then, re-weld the running gear to the bottom of this length of rectangular tubing. This will raise the trailer. Between this modification and adjusting your hitch and pin box, you will get your 5 to 6 inches of clearance you need.

I made this modification on my 2001 Holiday Rambler Alumascape and it has worked well for me for over 25,000 miles of towing. I would rather modify the trailer and leave the truck suspension stock. Just my own personal preference.

This gives you another option.

Good Luck

This is the best possible solution and one that should not be too expensive to accomplish.



Chances are that it will also strengthen your trailer frame and provide a stronger, more durable suspension mount than you currently have.

 

[surfbeetle]

You can have the spring hangers where they are attached to the bottom of the trailer frame rails cut off, essentially removing the running gear from the bottom of the trailer. Then have your welding shop take a length of rectangular tubing

(1/4 x2x4) or 1/4 x 2 x 5) and weld it "on edge" to the bottom of the trailer frame. Then, re-weld the running gear to the bottom of this length of rectangular tubing. This will raise the trailer. Between this modification and adjusting your hitch and pin box, you will get your 5 to 6 inches of clearance you need.

I made this modification on my 2001 Holiday Rambler Alumascape and it has worked well for me for over 25,000 miles of towing. I would rather modify the trailer and leave the truck suspension stock. Just my own personal preference.

This gives you another option.

Good Luck

I am contemplating this, I think I understand what you have described. If you (or anyone else) had any photos to post, that would definitely help me. Thanks