$6.00 Inline Trans temp gauge fitting at local hardware.

[dkosheba]

Fellow members,



Thanks for all your advise on installing gauges. I just installed my A-pillar pod mount and took your advise of an "in-line" install of Transmission temperature sensor instead of the welding of fitting to pan. I still welded 1/8" NPT to pan, but on bottom for purpose of draining it.



Now, Instead of the $29 fitting from Jannetty which I have never seen, or purchasing a new 95' line from Stealer, I measured my aluminum line at . 500" diameter and then went down to the local hardware and bought a 1/2" compression ring Tee for $6. Same at what you would use for Propane copper tubing connections.



I then took the Tee and opened up the I. D. on sensor leg a little and tapped the leg for 1/4" NPT in the I. D. and used the 1/4" to 1/8" adapter supplied with the Autometer gauge. As I had a compression nut left over, I put it over the pipe adapter and tightened it down before I added the 1/8" NPT temp probe. As I did not have a 1/4" NPT tap, I invested an additional $5. 49 at NAPA to own one.



Now onto lessons learned. I measured the shouldered distance in the Tee to be precisely 1. 15" so I took tubing cutter and removed exactly that and installed tee into the pre cooler line removed from truck. Not thinking I put compression rings on tube, and firmly held tubing into fitting, bottomed on shoulder in vise while tightening compression nuts. And happily reinstalled on truck. Big mistake and even bigger LEAK .



I learned from experience that you cannot bottom tube in fitting as it does not allow proper compression of ring on both seats. As tubing cutter could not remove about . 050" from end next to the compressed ring, I resorted to cutting with hack saw using reverse strokes, and then knife to clean up any burs left behind. Put Tee back on tubes, and now NO LEAKS. My advise is to bottom the tubing and get fitting snug, and then pull the tube out of fitting about . 040" or 1mm before final compression takes place.



I only write this as I would like other TDR members to save a little cash for the more important things in life and not make the mistakes I have made. I value your support. Thanks again.



Don

Airtabs Online





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Please refrain from the generic use of the word, "stealer" on the TDR website. Feel free, however, to post specific details about good - as well as bad - experiences with any dealership.



Robin

TDR Admin

 

[snowracer69]

Sounds good, and I only see one downside...



If and When you upgrade your transmission, the fitting you described putting on becomes a problem. I am of the belief that it can not and will not hold the line pressures put out by anybody's aftermarket valve-body.



I had the Jannetty fitting on mine for 2 months before getting my transmission done, and it worked well, but I didn't trust it to hold the +130 psi pressures of my DTT VB.



Glad it worked for ya. Just something to watch out for.



Josh

 

[illflem]

There isn't much pressure in the lines to and from the cooler since the return dumps right into the pan. The only pressure will be caused by restrictions to the flow, shouldn't be any more than 10 psi at the sensor port no matter what kind of VB you have.



Overtightening compression fittings also makes them leak. Finger tight plus a half turn with a wrench is plenty.

 

[lmills]

At least you made the right step from the get go. You checked the size of your line before getting the parts. I didn't Part ways into the install I relalized I had the wrong size fittings and had to run out for more.



live and learn!

 

[Bob Wagner]

cheaper is not always best

replace the stock line with the new sender line and be done with it.



under a 100. 00 and no worry

 

[BFC]

Come on Bob, what's the fun in doing it right from the get go? I did the "t" thing, then reached the age of reason(some would argue!) and installed the 95 line! $80 for a line..... on a 35K truck waaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyy to much money, LOL



Glenn

 

[Extreme1]

I needed to add a guage sender to my '94 that already had the fitting. I did consider adding a T to the existing fitting but after mocking it up it weighed way to much to be rattling out on the tube.



I do have the updated line so the last few inches to the heat exchanger on the side of the block is now a hose with an anti drainback valve in it. Anti drainback valves are EVIL! So I installed a T into the bottom of the heat exchanger and installed the temp probe there. With the removal of the valve and the addition of the T the hose length remains the same.

 

[John]

I agree with Bob Wagner. It is definitely a pay me now or pay me (a he!!uva lot more) later proposition. I have heard of failures utilizing the compression fitting "fix" where the ATF was performing an unscheduled change... usually in the middle of nowhere while towing a monster trailer.



Usually the words "metal fatigue" enter into the equation.

 

[Cooker]

I agree the compression fitting is not the best way to go. I think in the long run your will only encounter problems. Others feel differently.

 

[dkosheba]

Gentleman,

Thanks for all your replies, I have since found my receipt from the hardware store and the fitting was only $4. 59 so under $6 is still correct. I agree with your statements about metal fatigue as I am a CAE Engineer and could run some sort of analysis of this situation on the computer to simulate the frequency of Cummins and the stresses put into fitting, but that would be a waste of time.



I did not have the $80. 00 for the 95" line after the boss found out I bought gauges and pillar mount, if you know what I mean, so I improvised.



My question now is, what is the Jannetty fitting and why is it better than the compression fitting I am using. I first thought about going with a double flare like the OEM ends of tube, but then would have to borrow or purchase the flare tools for double flares, so I went the easier route of compression fitting.



Thanks for your feedback and I will watch the fitting closely for leaks now and If anything soon happens I will let everyone know.



Don

 

[R-N-R]

I'm not sure what makes the $29 trans temp gauge sender manifold better, but the part does look cool. The $15 S&H (standard ground) on the 2# part burned my shorts (I did order it anyway). So the "part" totaled about $54. I could only find the replacement line for $115 in my initial search. I have since seen it for the $80 price.



After my first attempt to install the manifold produced leaks (not during idle, but I lost 2 qts on a test drive), I removed the line (two pieces now) and inserted the manifold on the workbench.



For the $26ish difference, I would go with the replacement line. For $75, I would have to seriously consider chancing it.



Bill

 

[SEmerson]

I put my sender in the pan tempararely. My locale dealer wanted $130 for 1.

 

[Snow man]

Don ,while I commend you for your ingenuity,and sharing the idea,like the others,I think the money saved isnt worth the risk. The stock lines commonly crack,and split on these trucks,that is one of the reasons we use the older line with the rubber section,it has been more reliable. I replace the rubber section with braided steel hose because my DTT setup runs high line pressures. ,and for an extra measure of safety. Anyone who doesnt think there is a lot of pressure in the cooler lines hasnt had a pressure guage in the temp port in lockup.

 

[Dennis Garrett]

One of the first things I did to my 97 when I bought it new, was to install an inline, spin-on hydraulic filter, the type used on wood splitter return lines, available at Tractor Supply & other farm & ranch stores. I mounted it behind the front bumper, and spliced it into the rubber line going into the hot side of the cooler. It has an 1/8" port for the sending unit. Temps there this time of year are around 160 Deg. Might be a little higher closer to the TC. The filter flows 20 GPM, and filters down to 10 micron.