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6.7 airfilter in 5.9 housing

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Long time ago I remember reading about some folks here running the air filter for the 6. 7L CTD in the 5. 9L oem airboxes. The newer air filters are almost three times as thick (tall) yet ALMOST the exact same size as the 5. 9L oem filters. I am wondering if anyone is still doing this and if they feel they are getting good resuts from the switch. There is NO question thta there is more filter media in the 6. 7 filter ( and it obviously meets cummins standards), BUT when I installed one, it felt like I was squishing the pleats together to press it into the 5. 9L housing, and I decided that MIGHT restrict airflow. The filter gaskets ARE the same size, so there is NO problem with a seal betweeen the body and lid of the airbox. I don't have my EGT gauge installed yet, so I decided not to take the chance of restricting airflow. I WILL try this again after I get the gauges installed, but I am just wondering if anybody else has some feedback or ideas on this??
 
Look forward to hearing the results ... another option to the EGT gauge could be to rig up a vacuum gauge to the filter minder hole and measure the vacuum at idle, or if you have a long enough hose at various RPM's on the road.



If any of you have both filters, I would be interested in seeing a side by side of the two.
 
Look forward to hearing the results ... another option to the EGT gauge could be to rig up a vacuum gauge to the filter minder hole and measure the vacuum at idle, or if you have a long enough hose at various RPM's on the road.



If any of you have both filters, I would be interested in seeing a side by side of the two.



a vacuum gauge is too large of a scale. it needs to be a manometer or vacuum gauge which reads in inches of water. a manometer reading would be great, and all you would need to do is plumb it into where the filter minder goes and go for a boot down the road. check the reading at max boost at the highest engine speed [the cross point on line graphs where boost is highest at the highest engine speed = most flow through the filter]





vacuum at idle should read 0"h20 even with a dirty air filter [unless it is caked solid with dirt]
 
a vacuum gauge is too large of a scale. it needs to be a manometer or vacuum gauge which reads in inches of water. a manometer reading would be great, and all you would need to do is plumb it into where the filter minder goes and go for a boot down the road. check the reading at max boost at the highest engine speed [the cross point on line graphs where boost is highest at the highest engine speed = most flow through the filter]





vacuum at idle should read 0"h20 even with a dirty air filter [unless it is caked solid with dirt]



Well, this is getting just a bit too technical for me, but I AM glad to see that people are interested in this idea.



I wouldn't mind running a manometer either, if'n I could find an inexpensive one. ANY ideas where and how much??
 
Well, this is getting just a bit too technical for me, but I AM glad to see that people are interested in this idea.

I wouldn't mind running a manometer either, if'n I could find an inexpensive one. ANY ideas where and how much??

you could make your own manometer... won't be as fancy as a factory built one, but will only cost you 4' of clear plastic tubing plus what ever length you need to make it to the filter minder location.

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you could make your own manometer... won't be as fancy as a factory built one, but will only cost you 4' of clear plastic tubing plus what ever length you need to make it to the filter minder location.



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Very simple idea... I can run it to the filter box/minder port and then on inside the cab so that someone can watch it while I drive. Maybe have them place index marks at min/max points. Does it simply connect on one end and then continue into the U shape??
 
yep. connect one end into the air filter inlet piping [like at the filter minder location] and then long tube to the manometer [could even be one piece but easier maybe with 2 pieces]. the other end of the manometer gets left exposed to atmosphere. when you get a pressure differential between the intake air filter piping and outside atmosphere the water in the gauge will move up or down.



in the above drawings, the low side would be the side with a hose going from it to the filter minder location and the high side is open to atmosphere. under load [high boost/high engine speed] the reading will be highest [example: 10" differential from level of water low to level of water high] at idle there should be no differential [maybe slight vibration in water level]
 
make sure the verticle portions on the manometer are long enough to handle the water movement and not pull the water into your intake
 
Seafish,



haven't been on the forum in a little while and just noticed this thread.



I had access to a complete 6. 7 system and had the chance to examine the similarities and differences. Where I worked, we manufactured this system and a good friend of mine was actually involved in the design process. The 6. 7 filter is considerably deeper and the lower housing had to be modified to accept this deeper filter so I'm not surprised that it felt like you were squishing the pleats to install because you were. Unfortunately, the change from 5. 9 to 6. 7 also flipped the hinge between the upper and lower housing to the other side so you can't just interchange the lowers. The 6. 7 upper has a larger outlet diameter so you can't just change the air cleaner box and you would need the the clean air duct as well. I changed the whole works and gutted the resonator that came with the 6. 7. There's a few more details in thread number 208253. I took a bunch of pictures and could e-mail if you wish although I am dial-up so it would take a while.



Regards, John
 
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