Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 60 lb spring swap

[Kalaehina]

I know this subject has about a gazzillion threads and has been beaten to death, but I couldn't find the exact answers I was looking for in the search so here goes. I'm preparing to put the 60 lb exhaust valve springs in for my Pacbrake, I was looking at the valve covers today, now I have the KD NAPA tool to compress the springs. How in the world am I supposed to get #5 out, and even more #6 spring? Is this jobs frustration level up there with a gsk job? I've done a 3000 gsk install, AFE mega cannon, Jannetty 4 inch exhaust, Prime Loc, and a Go Rhino grille guard, Lukes Links, and a rear Magtec cover,am I ready to do an exhaust valve spring change? Please any guidance, info, tools recomended, tricks and miracles will be greatly appreciated.

 

[bighammer]

I used a NAPA tool and it worked fine. I had the screw type w/removeable handle. (didn't have to remove the handle though)



Use the valves to find where the piston is at. For #1, watch when you see the #6 valves indicating the start of intake stroke, (intake begins to open as the exhaust closes)you know both pistons are up. Mark your flywheel and do the #1 valves. Rotate the engine to the mark again and do #6. Repeat the proccess for 2 and 5 then 3 and 4.



Keep the holes in your head covered. A strong magnet for the keepers is really handy. The keepers get sort of stuck in their seats. Tighten the compressor until you can move the whole spring up and down (like a 1/4") then smack it down on the head.



The HD springs need to be sort of screwed into the compressor to get them short enough to fit. Make sure you get the keepers in place. It's pretty obvious, though.



When you put the rocker assy back on, make sure you have the pushrods seated properly. On my 2nd to last cylinder, I missed one (talking to wife and friend) and started to bar the engine over and felt resistance I figured out what happened and had to order the replacement rod. Less $ than a clown meal, but 2 days. (may be longer to the islands )



Sorry to get so long with this. Take your time and it will be fine. Probably worst mistake would be to lose a valve in the cylinder, but it can't happen if you have the piston up.

 

[Kirwin]

60 LB Valve Spring Install

Reference TDR # 36 pg 126. Penned by the famous Robert Patton. # 5 and #6 are not that tough. Just use your NAPA tool after removing the plugs from the underside of the cowl and your in there. You can use a mirror to give you a better look at those plugs but they aren't really that hard to get out or back in. Ensure that you clean the top of your engine off as there was a lot of small stones and general dirt in and around the injectors and valve cover crevices on the head on my engine. Any questions pm me and I would be glad to answer them.

Ditto what Bighammer said about the push rods. They are easily dislodged from their seats on the camshaft when removing the rocker block assembly. When you tighten down the rocker assembly the valve springs should not be compressed much. If they are loosen up the block and check for proper seating of the push rod on the lifter. Good luck Ken Irwin

 

[bighammer]

I didn't remove any plugs. Mine fit under without any problems.

 

[Woodenhead]

Safety Safety Safety

Not a bad Idea to wear a pair of safety glasses. I've seen keepers on other heads fly like bullets if not in quite right or a spring slips. Hate ta see ya get one in yer eye.



Take care

Mike

 

[Kalaehina]

Thank you, thank you, thank you all of you for your advice and instructions. That is the info I was looking for and this is why I love this site and our club, can't beat the TDR crew!

 

[bighammer]

Maybe we will have to plan a Hawiian TDR event (winter nationals?)



... . say in Febuary Oo. Oo. Oo.

 

[TPCDrafting]

It wouldn't hurt to buy a few extra keepers. Sometimes they fall down along side the motor and are difficult or impossible to find. They are only a few cents a piece. And yes, make darn sure your pistons are at TDC (or close) when you pull the keepers off. If a valve drops down into the cylinder, your few hour project turns into days when you have to pull the head off to retrieve your valve.



You will love the pac brake.

 

[Kalaehina]

bighammer, so for each valve spring I do I rotate the engine? I do #1, then rotate 360, then #6, then find TDC for #2, do #2, then rotate 360 and then do #5 and so forth? And if there ever was a full scale TDR rally here that would be awesome! Give something for all these ricer racer whatevers down here to look at, let them see true power. tpcdrafting, where did you get the keepers? Cummins? Dodge?, are these also called collets, or are they different from keepers? Thanks guys

 

[bighammer]

You got it.



Looking at a map, I can't see what highway our convoy is to take

 

[TPCDrafting]

I bought everything from a Cummins shop. They were more than half as much as anything I could buy at the Dodge dealer. Not sure on collets, but I just told the counter person I wanted valve spring keepers and they knew what I was talking about.



this explains how to find tdc and how to adjust the valves:

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/valve_adj/12_valve.html

 

[Kalaehina]

Thanks again guys, getting excited for my weekend project. bighammer, all we need is some Cummins powered boats, knowing the TDR guys, it'll probably have twin turbos, bigger injectors, tweaked fuel pump, Titanic size smoke stacks and we'd still think "it needs more power!" .

 

[Rammin On]

Kal ... .



No need to rotate the engine once you do #1 ... . 1 and 6 are up at the same time ... . do springs on 1 and 6 then rotate til # 2 is at TDC ... do springs on 2 and 5 ... then rotate engin til #3 is at TDC ... do springs on 3 and 4 ..... there ... you're all done

 

[bighammer]

I like to rotate the engine just to have all the rods slack when I put the rocker assy back in place. Probably don't have to, but makes it a bit easier to seat everything right.



22mm on the alternator is pretty easy to turn the engine.

 

[Joe G.]

Kalaehina,



The best way to turn the engine is with a barring tool. The alternator nut works, but it only turns it one way. The other way slips the belt. If you do much work on your engine you might as well get the barring tool. It's a lot easier to use to position the engine just right for timing, valve adjusting, or whatever.

 

[bighammer]

I forgot about the valve lash adjustment. Doing each cylinder @ TDC lets you adjust the valve lash before continuing.

 

[LarryB]

Don't forget to remove the baring tool before "trying" to start the engine after you're done. It jams in there pretty good if you don't remove it. Ahhh, ummm, someone told me this would happen. I don't really know from first hand experience.

 

[Joe G.]

The barring tool DOES jam in there pretty good. After the first time I used it and the removal hassle I ground a bevel on the flange so I can remove it easy with a screw driver. The trick then is to remember to have the bevel toward you when you put it in.

 

[bighammer]

When I time my truck I will probably want a barring tool, but otherwise, the alt nut works for me. None of the other stuff needs that kind of accuracy. (and sorry if I implied it somehow)

 

[Kalaehina]

I have a barring tool, and have used it to do my KDP jig and 3000 gsk, it worked great, only thing is I don't have extensions yet so I had to keep going under the truck to rotate it, so if I don't get any soon I have to alternator it. I have a MAC tools barring tool, it's a newer designed one that has a sleeve around it so it rotates smoothly and it has a step up around the edge so it doesn't go in flush so you can pry it out when you're done. It works so well, I had a harder time getting the plug out of the hole, I actually craked some of the edge off of the plug thing because I tried to pound it back into the hole .