• Use fluid that is labeled as being ATF+4 (not "compatible with" ATF+4 or "recommended for" ATF+4).
• Use Mopar filters
• HAND-tighten the spin-on filter (like you would a spin-on engine oil filter). Just snug it up 1/2 to 3/4 turn BY HAND after the gasket touches the case. Do not overtighten or you can crack the threaded plastic snout.
• Check the old seal (in the pump housing) for the primary (flat) filter. If it's not damaged / cut, and is still tight and secure in its bore, just leave it there are re-use it. It's easy to mis-install a new seal (leaving it cocked in the bore, which will give problems!) so it's best to just leave it be if it's OK. The new filter will likely come with a new seal but you don't have to replace it.
• If, however, you DO replace the seal, (1) DON'T leave the old seal in place and just stick the new seal on the filter snout (two seals will NOT work right), and (2) tamp the new seal into the pump bore so that the metal flange is FLUSH against the pump casting all the way around.
• Measure how much old oil you drain out, then add that much new fluid back in (normally it's about 7-1/2 to 11-1/2 quarts, depending on how long you let it drain for). Draining overnight (with the filters removed) will get the most oil out of the converter. When checking the dipstick, WAIT at least 5 minutes after you add any oil before re-checking the level. It takes a LONG time for the fluid to run down off the inside of the tube. So go take a break for a while (you can turn the engine off) and then come back later and check it (with engine running).