68RFE 15-second sump filter seal removal tool...

[KOwens]

Having read all the horror stories about removing the sump filter seal on the 68RFE transmission, I came up with a inexpensive, home-made, slide-hammer seal puller...that makes this job a breeze. Using this tool, it literally takes 15 seconds to remove the seal from the transmission body. The parts for the slide hammer tool include a 12" long 1/4-20 threaded rod from the Home Depot, four 1/4-20 jam nuts, a chunk of steel with a 5/16" hole drilled in it to act as the slide weight, and a specially shaped "ALUMINUM" washer that makes contact with the seal and the seal bore in the transmission. Here are a couple of images of the assembled tool.

The shape of the aluminum washer at the end of the slide hammer makes it possible to insert the tool into the seal opening from below and rotate it in order to position it above the seal before removing. The diameter of the aluminum washer is just smaller than the seal bore and the square sides make it easy to insert the tool into the seal before rotating it into position. Once the aluminum washer is above the seal, simply pull to one side of the seal against the seal bore, apply a light downward pressure against the seal, and operate the slide hammer a couple of times...and the seal pops right out. Since the washer that contacts the seal bore is made of aluminum, there is virtually no chance of marring the aluminum seal bore.

If it looks like this slide-hammer tool is something you could build yourself, I'm pretty confident it will save you some headaches when it's time to remove this particularly pesky sump filter seal from the 68RFE transmission.

Good luck, Kevin

 

[Cummins12V98]

Looks good. Only improvement would be to use a 1/4" solid rod and thread the ends. If there is a concern of the threaded rod scraping the bore.

 

[gsbrockman]

Nice, OP!!!! I wish I had this gadget when I owned my 2007.5 RAM 3500 MegaCab 4x4!!!!

Fast forward to 2014......Now I get to drop the crossmember to service the sump filter in my AISIN....... #@$%!

 

[KOwens]

Hey Cummins12V98...since the aluminum washer is just above the seal...and the seal is right at the end of the seal bore, there is no chance the threaded rod can touch the seal bore...only the jam nut above the aluminum washer, but that's pretty unlikely considering the forces involved. Good call on the improvements, however...my buddy and I didn't spend much time building this one...and as you can see...it ain't pretty, just functional.

And for gsbrockman (A.K.A. the 3-hour man)...I could feel you pain in the write-up you did several years ago about trying to get this particular seal out...so I did this pre-emptive strike before my first transmission service on my 2010 yesterday. If it makes you feel any better, you were my inspiration for building this tool...you and few others that have suffered along the Chevron Way. So thank you for that! Sorry to hear about the cross member...what a pain!

Take care, Kevin

 

[JohnCW]

Nice tool .
Kevin, how many quarts of ATF-4 did you use with the new pan?

Just think someday when your kids are going threw your stuff they will ponder what that tool is, then and chunk it into the trash.

 

[KOwens]

Hey JohnCW,

Took 11.5 quarts...but not with a new pan...I chickened out and did not install the Mag-Hytec pan...didn't want the gasket issue or any possibility of leaks...and felt the sealed factory pan using RTV silicone was the way to go in the end. I think the reason it took so much ATF during the refill was due to the long drain period (about 7 hours while I was building parts and doing welding). I did, however, install a drain plug in the factory pan before reinstalling it onto the transmission. Here's a couple of pictures of the drain plug receiver my buddy built on his lathe/mill that we TIG welded onto the pan. Should work well in the future during the draining process and keep the mess to a minimum.

Since my son was involved during this service, he won't be guessing what these tools are in the future! Ha!

Good luck, Kevin

 

[KOwens]

And if you are interested JohnCW...

Here are a couple of pictures of the sump filter seal driver we turned on his lathe at the same time.

Was about $5 for the 1-1/4" aluminum bar stock at Industrial Metal Supply...and about 20 minutes on the lathe.

Good luck, Kevin

 

[gsbrockman]

And for gsbrockman (A.K.A. the 3-hour man)...I could feel you pain in the write-up you did several years ago about trying to get this particular seal out...so I did this pre-emptive strike before my first transmission service on my 2010 yesterday. If it makes you feel any better, you were my inspiration for building this tool...you and few others that have suffered along the Chevron Way. So thank you for that! Sorry to hear about the cross member...what a pain!

Take care, Kevin

Glad I could be of an inspiration to ya, Kevin !!!! :-laf
You have a great memory.....I had written that way back in March of 2011 !!!

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/228816-68RFE-Transmission-Filters-Fluid-Change

 

[Cummins12V98]

Good call on the drain plug! They all should come that way.

As far as sealing the MagHytec I used "TheRightStuff" gasket maker. Over 40K and not a drip on my 11 with 68RFE!

 

[KOwens]

Hey gsbrockman...I actually read your thread recently...as a result of a search on the web, but I knew I was in for trouble as soon as I read about your experience trying to remove this particular seal. I always try to read about maintenance issues before getting started...saves some time occasionally. Like they say, "the Pioneers are the ones with the arrows in their backs!" As it turns out, even your bad experience helped me out!

And for Cummins12V98...yeah...bock...bock...bock...bock...I totally chickened out and stuck with a proven technique. Some of the places I end up with this truck would be a real problem having a leak...and trying to fix it by myself on the road.

Anyway, thanks again guys for all the comments and suggestions.

Take care, Kevin

 

[Cummins12V98]

It took a few hard wraps with my dead blow hammer to get the pan off!

 

[JohnCW]

Wow, you da man on custom tools, and that is a nice drain plug in the factory pan , well done.

I actually paid the performance diesel shop down the road from my house to install the Mag-Hytech . They charged me 100 bucks labor and did a nice job.

I have been driving around with the transmission temp posted on the display . I will keep an evil eye on those bolts.

Fire watch John

 

[KOwens]

Thanks John,

It is nice having a buddy with a machine shop in his garage!

I'd be interested in knowing the change (lower) in transmission temperature you experience with the new pan. Unloaded and not towing, my transmission runs about 70-75 degrees above ambient outside air temperature. Towing under light load conditions the transmission temperature increases to roughly 80 degrees above ambient...and a bit higher under more extreme (steep) pulling conditions. Anyway if you have the time, let us know what you find out with the new pan.

Take care, Kevin

 

[JohnCW]

Kevin, I will let you know when I have something to report,

hopefully it won't be the Mag Tech bouncing down the road in the review mirror

John

 

[JohnCW]

Report # 1....Unloaded and not towing, 65 degrees above ambient outside air temperature, pan still attached to vehicle.
I should have a heck of a report in November as I have a 5000 mile round trip on the horizon to the NE .

John