Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
rikbakke
TDR MEMBER
I just finished the maintenance on the 2500 for the summer trip up to Alaska. The '13 Tradesman now has 50k so I figured I should fluidize and filter the transmission especially since most of the miles on the beast have been towing. Thanks for the previous postings and especially TransEngineer on service hints and notes. Here's some of my findings -
1) the pan bolts were really well set with threadlocker - I thought I might either break the 1/4" drive ratchet or snap a bolt. But all came out well and both the bolts and case threads survived without issue.
2) Use a wire wheel to get the old RTV off the transmission pan. Scraping with a blade only cuts into the epoxy-like finish on the pan surface. A softer wire wheel in a cordless drill took care of the RTV quickly and easily with minimal scratching of the pan, especially in the pan surface divets. The factory must have a real nice machine to spread ATV - wish I could be so precise.
3) used a rubber dead blow hammer on the side of the pan to crack it loose, worked great.
4) minimal RTV stuck to the aluminum case surface - I just wiped with mineral spirits to get any AFT and remaining RTV off.
5) I got a concrete mixing pan from Home Despot for the draining and spillage - about $6 Actually, I spilled less fluid doing the transmission than I ever have changing the oil or fuel filters. Just have a wide mouth funnel when pouring out the dump pan.
6) the MOPAR AT sealant worked great - even smells like ood old fashioned RTV.
7) drained the transmission overnight, I got right at 9 quarts out of it. Used MOPAR ATF+4 fluid to replace.
Early on, I had numerous problems with multiple RAM dealers on the oil filter change. Seems like the oil change techs like to pull the full air intake on the '13 2500 thinking it was a new frame design '13+ 3500 or '14+ 2500 to get at the oil filter. Every time I got the truck back, there was a good chance I 'd find 1) missing air filter box top screws, 2) loose intake clamps and/or 3) a loose (once broken!) intake to turbo clamp. Dirt in the intake? I guess FCA doesn't care.
So I finally got the news and started doing it 100% myself - I'd even change early, very early if am going to get close or over the 6 month or miles schedule for a trip.
Low and behold, all I needed to do was remove a bolt holding a power steering hose clamp onto the frame. Then I can easily push the hoses out of the way when removing and installing the oil filter FROM BELOW.
(oh, I need to remove the RH front wheel to get at the bolt easily)
Lastly, get a socket designed for the front fuel filter housing cap, and a long wobble extension... Hate that plastic filter housing. What's so bad about having a unitized filter in front?...
The specialty wrench for the frame mounted fuel filter water sensor is nice. I just bought a spare sensor as they seem a bit fragile.
1) the pan bolts were really well set with threadlocker - I thought I might either break the 1/4" drive ratchet or snap a bolt. But all came out well and both the bolts and case threads survived without issue.
2) Use a wire wheel to get the old RTV off the transmission pan. Scraping with a blade only cuts into the epoxy-like finish on the pan surface. A softer wire wheel in a cordless drill took care of the RTV quickly and easily with minimal scratching of the pan, especially in the pan surface divets. The factory must have a real nice machine to spread ATV - wish I could be so precise.
3) used a rubber dead blow hammer on the side of the pan to crack it loose, worked great.
4) minimal RTV stuck to the aluminum case surface - I just wiped with mineral spirits to get any AFT and remaining RTV off.
5) I got a concrete mixing pan from Home Despot for the draining and spillage - about $6 Actually, I spilled less fluid doing the transmission than I ever have changing the oil or fuel filters. Just have a wide mouth funnel when pouring out the dump pan.
6) the MOPAR AT sealant worked great - even smells like ood old fashioned RTV.
7) drained the transmission overnight, I got right at 9 quarts out of it. Used MOPAR ATF+4 fluid to replace.
Early on, I had numerous problems with multiple RAM dealers on the oil filter change. Seems like the oil change techs like to pull the full air intake on the '13 2500 thinking it was a new frame design '13+ 3500 or '14+ 2500 to get at the oil filter. Every time I got the truck back, there was a good chance I 'd find 1) missing air filter box top screws, 2) loose intake clamps and/or 3) a loose (once broken!) intake to turbo clamp. Dirt in the intake? I guess FCA doesn't care.
So I finally got the news and started doing it 100% myself - I'd even change early, very early if am going to get close or over the 6 month or miles schedule for a trip.
Low and behold, all I needed to do was remove a bolt holding a power steering hose clamp onto the frame. Then I can easily push the hoses out of the way when removing and installing the oil filter FROM BELOW.
(oh, I need to remove the RH front wheel to get at the bolt easily)
Lastly, get a socket designed for the front fuel filter housing cap, and a long wobble extension... Hate that plastic filter housing. What's so bad about having a unitized filter in front?...
The specialty wrench for the frame mounted fuel filter water sensor is nice. I just bought a spare sensor as they seem a bit fragile.
