Here I am

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 70+ MPH Vibration.....What the *$%&???

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Turbo gasket

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) throttle problem

Status
Not open for further replies.
Anyone have an idea as to what could be causing my '99 to have a groaning type vibration throughout the body at 70+ MPH? If I go 60 or 65 it is smooth. As soon as I get to 70, I start to feel it. No vibration in the steering wheel, just throughout the body. :confused:





If I had to quess, I'm thinking the rear driveshaft universal. I did notice that the grease cup that surrounds the needle bearing area looks like it has been distorted and unseated. The joints are original with 105,000 miles on them. Would a universal joint be fine at one speed and bad at another? I don't feel any play in the driveshaft either.



Thanks for any help
 
i had a vibration in my 94. it groaned and shoock everything but the steering wheel , it shook the dash and such as well. this was right before my converter calved. the converter was shot after that. if this is like yours look into it you might have the same problem good luck
 
Let me know if you find it. I have had the same on my 02 since new. Now at 38,000. The dealer won't even test drive at 70 MPH
 
I would look at the simple stuff first like U joints bolts first. I have 94 Bronco and i started have a vibration that i started noticing at freeway speeds . At the time i was working 12 hour days and i didn,t want to mess with it when i got home from work. I finnaly decided to climb under it and take a look i put my had on the frount drive line and tryed to rotate and it felt pretty solid then i went to the rear. I grabed the rear drive shaft and it didn,t feel so solid to my suprise i found that my U joint flang by my transfer case was missing a bolt and the other three were loose :eek: if that thing would have let loose i would have ben in for a rough ride at 75 that drive line woud be swinging around like a baseball bat under my truck :--) good luck
 
When your under a load does it go away (such as hill climb, accelerate, pull tailer etc. )? It could be the splines if it goes away under those conditions. If not, I'm going to agree with you on the u-joints. The best way to check is to go behind a warehouse or something where the sound can resignate of a wall and listen for a cracking sound. If you hear a cracking sound, change your u-joints. Hope this helps.

HCanales
 
I am going through the same problem. At 70 mph the truck will "howl" and I will get a slight vibration on the floor of the cab. The noise is intermittent-perhaps it will be loud for a min or 2 then it will get softer. I have already changed the u-joints on both shafts and had them balanced. I have been told that I may have a bad bearing in the back axle, but they (the technician) were not sure. I do know this, even after a long trip, nothing on the axle ever gets really hot. I have no idea what the problem is, and at this point I really do not want to throw money around chasing the problem. If you do find your problem, please post-I know I could use some leads.

Kess
 
kess said:
I am going through the same problem. At 70 mph the truck will "howl" and I will get a slight vibration on the floor of the cab. The noise is intermittent-perhaps it will be loud for a min or 2 then it will get softer. I have already changed the u-joints on both shafts and had them balanced. I have been told that I may have a bad bearing in the back axle, but they (the technician) were not sure. I do know this, even after a long trip, nothing on the axle ever gets really hot. I have no idea what the problem is, and at this point I really do not want to throw money around chasing the problem. If you do find your problem, please post-I know I could use some leads.

Kess



I'm 80% sure that your technicians are right, its your ring gear carrier bearings. The way you can check this is by pulling your diff cover and taking

a pry bar between the carrier and the diff housing. You should be able to move the carrier assembly up and down, if so then you know your problem.

Make sure you have your truck in "N" and up on jack stands when you do this otherwise it won't work. The bearings are fairly inexpensive and easy to change out (I've got mine down to a science!) just remember buy quality

parts because, "I garrante you will be changing them out again".



Any Questions PM me.

HCanales
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top